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Whrlp Master Tech
Whrlp Master Tech, Whirlpool Master Technician
Category: Appliance
Satisfied Customers: 9596
Experience:  30 years Appliance Field 15 yr with Whirlpool Corp. 9 yrs Whirlpool Technical Assistance Line
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I have a stacked unit Maytag LSE7840ACE washer that I'm

Customer Question

I have a stacked unit Maytag LSE7840ACE washer that I'm having trouble with. When I initiate the start cycle it doesn't begin to fill with water and it doesn't advance. I believe the washer won't advance without the fill cycle completing so I'm not thinking it's a timer issue. When I manually advance the cycles, eventually the spin cycle will come on. I have checked the hoses and the inlet screens and they're fine. I can pause the spin cycle by opening the lid and I did a continuity test on the lid switch. I also did a continuity test on both hot and cold water solenoids. I checked the inline ground fuse on the left front inside of the washer unit and it's fine (I replaced it just in case). When I turn on the wash cycle, I do NOT get 120 volts on the plugs that connect to the hot or cold solenoids. I purchased a new washer timer mechanism, replaced it and it still doesn't work. The dryer works just fine...
Submitted: 6 months ago.
Category: Appliance
Expert:  Tyler Z. replied 6 months ago.

Hello. My name is ***** ***** I'll be helping you with your appliance question today. Please wait a few moments while I review your question.

Expert:  Tyler Z. replied 6 months ago.

So you are correct that the washer will not advance until it fills with water. If you're certain the fuse is good and the lid switch is good, the only thing that would stop both hot and cold water from filling is your timer. The main timer would need to be replaced. The part number is ***** and below is a link to the part. There are multiple switches inside the lid switch assembly so I would double check the switches in the lid switch assembly and if they check good and the fuse has been replaced, below is a link to the timer you'd need to order and replace for your model.

CLICK HERE for timer

We are on the honor system here. Please remember to rate my service by selecting a star at the top of the screen before you leave today and reply back here letting me know with a rating of 1-5 stars (5 being the best). If you need anything else, just let me know. You can continue asking follow-up questions at no additional charge after rating my service if you still need assistance.

Customer: replied 6 months ago.
I replaced the timer with a brand new one already. The problem persists.
Expert:  Tyler Z. replied 6 months ago.

Then your lid switch is bad regardless whether you think it tests good or not, the lid switch assembly needs to be replaced.

Customer: replied 6 months ago.
When I open the lid during the spin cycle, it shuts off... I've tested both the switches in the lid switch assembly with my multimeter and they both pass... it'd be pretty weird for the lid switch to pass both of those tests and still be bad wouldn't it?
Expert:  Tyler Z. replied 6 months ago.

Well again, I'm not there so I'll have to believe what you are saying is true but if the lid switch assembly is definitely not the problem and the timer isn't the problem, that only leaves the pressure switch which is what tells the washer how much water to fill with. It's the part with the rubber hose going to it and it can't be tested. You can try blowing into the switch and sucking on the nipple of the switch and sometimes that will reset it if it's not working properly but other than that it just needs to be replaced---there are no other options so if you replaced the timer and you replace this pressure switch and still have problems---you're back to the lid switch again.

We are on the honor system here. Please remember to rate my service by selecting a star at the top of the screen before you leave today and reply back here letting me know with a rating of 1-5 stars (5 being the best). If you need anything else, just let me know. You can continue asking follow-up questions at no additional charge after rating my service if you still need assistance.

Customer: replied 6 months ago.
Is there a way I can bypass the lid switch for testing purposes? This unit is old enough that I'll have to order theblid switch and wait for it to come, I'd rather not wait for it to arrive and then have to send it back if it doesn't fix the issue.
Expert:  Tyler Z. replied 6 months ago.

You could bypass the lid switch but we are not allowed to explain how to bypass things on this site I'm sorry to say. It's dangerous and the liabilities are too great.

Customer: replied 6 months ago.
OK, worked out bypassing the switch on my own. The lid switch isn't the problem. Where is this water pressure switch located?
Expert:  Tyler Z. replied 6 months ago.

That's inside the control panel. Below is a link to the part so you know what you're looking for.

CLICK HERE to see switch

Customer: replied 5 months ago.
That one looks different than mine, if I buy it do you know if it it comes with color coded instructions on where things connect?
Expert:  Tyler Z. replied 5 months ago.

It should be an exact replacement. If that part looks different then you need to look up your model number again because the model you gave me isn't correct.

Customer: replied 5 months ago.
I tried to add a picture... LSE7804ACE is the model number.
Customer: replied 5 months ago.
Here's what my water level switch looks like.
Expert:  Tyler Z. replied 5 months ago.

OK that's slightly different than the model you gave before. The 4 and the 0 were mixed up in the model before. LSE7840ACE is what you had before, but the part is the same. You still need part number 12002304. So that part has been re-designed. It may come with an instruction sheet when you get the new timer or it may not, but if it doesn't, then you just move the wires over to the pressure switch that have the same number. So if your switch has a number a wire going to number 31 terminal, you move that to the new switch terminal 31. Wrap each wire terminal in electrical tape so it doesn't touch the metal on the wire next to it. We are on the honor system here. Please remember to rate my service by selecting a star at the top of the screen before you leave today and reply back here letting me know with a rating of 1-5 stars (5 being the best). If you need anything else, just let me know. You can continue asking follow-up questions at no additional charge after rating my service if you still need assistance.

Expert:  Tyler Z. replied 5 months ago.

Hello again. I'm just following up because I haven't heard back from you and I see this question is still open and unrated. Is there anything else I can help you with?

Customer: replied 5 months ago.
I will have my replacement water level switch by Wednesday, I'll keep you posted. Thanks.
Expert:  Tyler Z. replied 5 months ago.

ok..

Customer: replied 5 months ago.
This pressure switch does not have a 13, 23 or 33 but the instructions say " if you are replacing a pressure switch with a white cap the wires were actually connected to tabs 14, 24 and 34 on the original pressure switch. My old one has 13, 23 and 33 while the new one has 14, 24 and 34. Should I connect white wires to those instead?
Expert:  Tyler Z. replied 5 months ago.

Yes, that is correct. 13 goes to 14, 23 goes to 24, 33 goes to 34.

Again, make sure you wrap them in electrical tape so they don't touch the other terminals next to them causing problems.

Customer: replied 5 months ago.
OK tried that, the replacement kit came with handy plastic insulators so no tape needed, but the machine still doesn't fill and it seems like when the timer is at the spot where it should fill it's agitating instead. Like when I spin it to the rinse cycle it starts agitating.
Expert:  Tyler Z. replied 5 months ago.

something isn't right with the wiring on the switch if it's agitating when it should be filling. Either one of the wires are touching each other and shouldn't be or something like that.

Customer: replied 5 months ago.
I took everything off, put extra tape around all the connections just in case and put it all back on and it's back to where it started. It doesn't fill, it doesn't agitate and it only activates the spin cycle.
Expert:  Whrlp Master Tech replied 5 months ago.

I see the last person has opted out of your question!
My name is Woody.
I will be glad to assist you today.
I have been servicing ALL Major Brands of Appliances for 36 Years, I own my own Appliance repair Company
And I teach appliance repair at a local Community College.
I have over 100,000 plus in home repairs and over 80,000 internet repairs under my belt.
You will be paying me for my ANSWER to your Appliance Question,, Not for the repair of your appliance hence the name of this site Just Answer.
I will do my best to take the information that you provide to me and make a Diagnosis for you to be able to repair your own Appliance.

Have you tested for voltage out of the timer , going to the water temperature switch?

And then for voltage out of the water temperature switch to the water valve?

Customer: replied 5 months ago.
Where do I test outgoing voltage from the timer? Which is the water temperature switch?
Expert:  Whrlp Master Tech replied 5 months ago.

to test voltage out of the timer you can test the Yellow to ground . and also on the water temperature switch yellow terminal #3

And to test voltage out of the water temperature switch ( located on the console) test orange on terminal #4

Also have to tried setting the timer to a rinse mode to see if it would give voltage to the cold water solenoid .(rinse bypasses the temperature switch and goes directly to the cold solenoid.

Expert:  Whrlp Master Tech replied 5 months ago.

I`m also going to send you the manufactures wire diagram that they have given out.

The Red outlines L1 from the cord to line switch to lid switch to check switch to the time out of the timer to the water temp switch then to the water inlet valve solenoids.

If you have questions just reply back to me.

Customer: replied 5 months ago.
I'm having trouble locating the temp switch... I've traced voltage past the lid switch but I'm not sure what's the temp switch, the wires are a pain to follow.
Customer: replied 5 months ago.
OK, super close now I think... When I test the hot water valve connector, I get voltage when I ground the white wire not the orange wire but when I test the cold water valve connector I get voltage on the blue, not the white. Where the heck is this thing miswired? I still haven't found the temp switch...
Customer: replied 5 months ago.
Correction, I get voltage on the blue and white on the cold but only on the white on the hot, not the orange.
Customer: replied 5 months ago.
On the pressure switch, I get voltage on the purple, but not the yellow, brown, pink or white.
Customer: replied 5 months ago.
Correction, I get voltage when I go from purple to ground or purple to any other color on that switch, but not from any color but purple to ground. If that makes sense.
Expert:  Whrlp Master Tech replied 5 months ago.

The water temperature switch is mounted right on the console along with the washer timer and the dryer timer!

Here is a parts break down it is shown as item #10

http://www.partadvantage.com/diagram/2/0/00034494/680/900

Ok On the water valve your purple is shown as blue ,which when faded does look purple.

and if your getting voltage on the blue /purple to ground ,but not to white you have lost neutral to the water inlet valve assembly.

And as shown on the wire diagram the white /neutral comes off the fuse from the fuse it comes off the pressure switch on the white contact #15-E then thru the pressure switch contact #34 comes out on contact #3C yellow then to the level selector #C into the level switch and out on contact #7 as a gray wire .

So either the fuse is bad , even thou you have tested it , or either one of the contact in either the pressure switch or the level selector are bad or you do not have a neutral coming from the terminal block or from the outlet.

That is why it is called a floating neutral . because when not under a load it is there when under a load as if something is being powered it goes away .

The something being powered in this case is the water inlet valves.

Customer: replied 5 months ago.
Oh duh! I was looking for a sensor, not just the temperature selector, I feel silly. What I'll do is bypass that fuse with jumpers for the time being to eliminate the whole fuse assembly being bad, I know the fuse is OK; I even replaced it with a new one but I suppose there's a chance that somehow the assembly is corroded or some such. I'll do that this evening when I get home from work.My outlet on the wall is wired for a 4 wire plug and this washer came with the old 3 wire plug. I tried both re-wiring the unit with a 4 wire pigtail (eliminating the ground tab from the neutral wire and using the proper ground instead) and re-wiring the outlet with an old 3 wire connection, using the neutral wire and leaving off the ground wire.Would the dryer still work if I didn't have neutral coming from the outlet? Because the dryer works, and the spin cycle works too... sigh.
Expert:  Whrlp Master Tech replied 5 months ago.

No with out a Neutral the dryer*****motor will not work.

On the Three wire set up just tie the Neutral and Ground together , at the circuit breaker box they all turn in to ground anyway..

Customer: replied 5 months ago.
I have the 4 wire installed now, just to be safe :) OK so I'm sure the neutral is good, since the dryer works and the spin cycle works... so I guess we're down to that fricken fuse or my temperature switch?
Expert:  Whrlp Master Tech replied 5 months ago.

well wiring ,fuse ,pressure switch and the level / load switch .

Could be some thing as simple as a loose wire anywhere with in the washer Neutral wiring path.