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Tyler Z.
Tyler Z., Appliance Doc
Category: Appliance
Satisfied Customers: 74346
Experience:  9+ years being an appliance technician with factory training.
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Jennair Frig. 3 to 4 years old. Won't cool enough.

Customer Question

Jennair Frig. 3 to 4 years old. Won't cool enough. Compressor runs constantly. Coils are clean. My theory is the defrost timer or equivalent is stuck in the on position. The frig has a "service Test" function which I haven't attempted yet. There is mention of a Freezer Mullion Heater (if equipped) which I'm not familiar with. There is also mention of a Default Defrost Operation test. Wondering if either of these tests would send me in the right direction?
1) is that possibly my problem?
2) where is this timer physically located?
3) can I easily test this timer?M# ***** JFC2290VEM2
S# ***** KY3868088
Submitted: 3 months ago.
Category: Appliance
Expert:  Tyler Z. replied 3 months ago.

Good morning! My name is ***** ***** I'll be assisting you with your refrigerator today. So unfortunately your theory isn't going to be correct because if the unit were stuck in defrost---nothing would run at all. But that doesn't mean you don't have a defrost issue. So let's start by explaining the possibilities for your symptoms. This means that you either have a defrost problem or the fan inside the freezer behind the back panel isn't running and needs to be replaced. Pull everything out of the freezer and remove the back panel. If the fan isn't running then replace it. If there is a lot of frost build up, then use a hair dryer to thaw it all out. You will then need to test continuity through the defrost heater and defrost thermostat. The defrost heater runs along the bottom of the silver coils and the defrost thermostat is the 1" round device clipped onto the top of the silver coils. If either part doesn't have continuity, you need to replace it or it stops the unit from thawing on it's own. If both parts check good, then you need to replace the display board at the top of your refrigerator section inside the control panel because the display board is the defrost timer for this model.

To remove the back panel itself, just remove all the screws going into the back panel to start. There is a plastic vent directly in the middle toward the top of the back panel that you must unclip. There are 3 hidden clips you must pry on with a flat head screwdriver to release this vent panel and below is a picture where I drew an arrow to all the clip locations you need to pry on.

To the right of this vent is a little oval plastic cover which houses a temperature sensor. Slide a flat head screwdriver into the slit on the front of the cover and pry in the hole to release this cover and get the sensor out of the way. Now you can pull the back panel off.

We are on the honor system here. Please remember to rate my service by selecting a star at the top of the screen before you leave today. If you need anything else, just let me know. You can continue asking follow-up questions at no additional charge after rating my service if you still need assistance.

Customer: replied 3 months ago.
Tyler, Thanks for the quick response, and leading me down what appears to be the correct diagnostic path. Fan proved to be working fine. Defrost heater shows continuity. Defrost thermostat did not show continuity. So, I accepted (happily) that was the problem. I ordered the part over night. Then later I got to thinking, since the unit isn't working, and I tested the thermostat at room temperature, am I getting a "correct" reading? So I tossed the unit into our freezer for a couple hours, and then tested it. This time it showed continuity.
I don't mind purchasing a $15 part, Especially if it turns out to of been a "weak" thermostat and fixes the problem. But if it turns out to not be, and now I'm faced with purchasing a user control/display board, I want to be relatively sure that will fix my problem, as it's $240.
How confident are you that if I've done all the diagnostic testing correctly, and I'm still faced with a dead frig, that a control board will fix it?
Can you give me a quick tutorial on how to remove it?
Thanks. I know time is money, and with a second round of questions, you're not getting much for yours. So I really do appreciate any further time spent.
Julian
Customer: replied 3 months ago.
The defrost thermo is scheduled to arrive sometime today. I plan to test it, then install it, and attempt to run the frig before I do anything else. Thanks.
Expert:  Tyler Z. replied 3 months ago.

You needed to test the thermostat while still clipped onto the frosted coils. You'll need to re-test it correctly. Other than that if it tests good then you need to replace the control board. We are on the honor system here. Please remember to rate my service by selecting a star at the top of the screen before you leave today and reply back here letting me know with a rating of 1-5 stars (5 being the best). If you need anything else, just let me know. You can continue asking follow-up questions at no additional charge after rating my service if you still need assistance.

Expert:  Tyler Z. replied 3 months ago.

Hello again. I'm just following up because I haven't heard back from you and I see this question is still open and unrated. Is there anything else I can help you with?

Customer: replied 2 months ago.
Turned out to be a bad evaporator coil.
No, there wasn't any visible oil residue. The tech measured the Amp draw, found it to be low. (.25). Looked for visible signs of a leak. Unable to. Used a freon tester, and found a signal, center left on the coil.
So no, I'll not complete the transaction. I have $210 in this endeavor, with three plus weeks without a frig. Needless to say, the wife is not happy.
Expert:  Tyler Z. replied 2 months ago.

alright well good luck to you.

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