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Good morning! My name is ***** ***** I'll be helping you with your refrigerator today!
So there are 2 other things that can cause this. First, disconnect the hose that comes from the water valve that goes up to the icemaker (disconnect it at the valve itself). Then blow through the water line to make sure it's clear and isn't frozen. If it's frozen, then the fill tube right behind the icemaker needs to be thawed out with a hair dryer until you can blow through the line. The other thing that can cause the problem is if the icemaker compartment area isn't below 10ºF. The icemaker will not cycle and call for water if the temperature is above 10 degrees. If the temperature checks good and the water line is clear, then all that is left is the icemaker itself and that would need to be replaced.
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That's bad if that is accurate. I would check the temperature of the freezer because the air comes straight from the freezer up to the ice compartment. If the freezer is also at 10 degrees or higher, that is the reason your icemaker isn't cycling. If the freezer is around 0 degrees then possibly you didn't check the ice compartment correctly and you may need to just put a thermostat in the ice compartment and leave it there for a few hours and come back and see what temperature it is. If it's still too warm, turn your freezer colder and if that doesn't solve the issue, the damper assembly behind the back panel inside the ice compartment isn't regulating the air flow properly so the damper would need to be replaced.
OK so the freezer temperature is correct but the ice compartment isn't which means that your damper is allowing too much air to go into the refrigerator cutting off the air flow into the refrigerator and ice compartment (again assuming your temperature tests in the ice compartment were accurate). That means your damper would need to be replaced. I'd still put a thermostat in the ice compartment bucket and just leave it there for an hour or so. It's a small compartment so removing the bucket to test the temperatures can allow a lot of the cold air to exit and then it'll test off even though it's accurate. But again, if the temperatures are correct and it really is above 10 degrees, you need to replace the damper.
Sure the part number is ***** and below is a link to the part.
CLICK HERE for damper
One last thing to check before replacing the part. Close the left refrigerator door and stick your head in through the right side. Make sure that the ice bucket seals up with the door. Over time the rubber gasket on the door which seals up the bucket to the ice chute on the door develops a gap. If that happens, heat up the gasket with a hair dryer and puff it up so that it makes connects and seals up when the left door is shut. Other than that, replace the damper because it's allowing too much air to get into the refrigerator.
Nope, you just need to replace the damper, that is all that is left. We are on the honor system here. Please remember to rate my service by selecting a star at the top of the screen before you leave today and reply back here letting me know with a rating of 1-5 stars (5 being the best). If you need anything else, just let me know. You can continue asking follow-up questions at no additional charge after rating my service if you still need assistance.
I am not, I'm out of Denver, CO.
Alright, good luck to you.
Hello again. I'm just following up because I haven't heard back from you and I see this question is still open. Is there anything else I can help you with?