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Appliance Guru
Appliance Guru, Owner and Technician
Category: Appliance
Satisfied Customers: 14497
Experience:  Over 15 yrs. experience with 10,000+ in home repairs.
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I am having a problem with my Samsung DV331AER dryer. It

Customer Question

I am having a problem with my Samsung DV331AER dryer. It turns on and allows me to see the settings, but it shows an hourglass and doesn't actually start the cycle. There is no delay mode setting I can find, and I just took the top cover off to check the
belt. It is in tact and looks fine. I have disassembled the dryer and gone through all the parts in the technical information sheet on the back of the cabinet. Here are my findings Thermostat 1 (blower housing thermal limit): 0.3 Ohms Thermistor (blower housing):
11.8 kOhms (it's about 73F in my house right now) Thermostat 3 (heater assy): 0.3 Ohms Thermostat 4 (heater assy): 0.2 Ohms Heater Element: 9.8 Ohms Door Switch: Checks out in both pressed and unpressed positions Belt Cut-Off Switch: Checks out Lamp Resistance:
120 Ohms (sheet says it should be 80 - 100 Ohms) Centrifugal Switch Contacts 3 and 4): 1.8 Ohms (sheet says it should be 2.88 Ohms) Centrifugal Switch Contacts 4 and 5): 1.8 Ohms (sheet says it should be 3.4 Ohms) I would very much appreciate some direction.
Submitted: 1 year ago.
Category: Appliance
Expert:  Appliance Guru replied 1 year ago.

Hello and thanks for using this service, if you have been waiting do not worry or get upset I am just one of the techs on here and I try to get to as many customers as I can and I just picked up your question now. Please give me time to respond as typing, researching and adding links takes me time to do so please be patient and often I will ask you questions to narrow down the issue to get is diagnosed correctly. If another tech tries to post to you please only deal with me as this confuses the issue and further I receive no credit then for assisting....just kindly ask the other tech to leave and deal directly with me thanks!

Bypass the thermal fuse on the blower and try it, if it was reading .3 ohms it is likely bad.

We are on the honor system for our time, all I ask is please rate my service using the STAR RATING SYSTEM at the top of your page before you leave. Us techs only receive a SMALL PORTION of whatever you have chosen to pay after a good star rating is chosen. If you are not happy with the service please let me know before leaving a negative rating. This is the only way I am paid or credited through the site for my time. This will also allow you to get directly back to me for FREE follow up questions and tips are greatly appreciated! Thanks

Customer: replied 1 year ago.
The book says that the anything less than 1 ohm is in spec. I just measured the brand new on I bought from the appliance parts store and it read 0.3 ohms as well. I don't think your answer is correct, and I am hesitating to completely reassemble this dryer to try your suggestion.
Expert:  Appliance Guru replied 1 year ago.

Just because the meter says it in spec does not mean anything on dryer thermal fuses....so many times the meter will show a thermal fuse good on a meter only to be bad when any load is applied. SInce you doubt what I am saying check the brown wire on the RY5 terminal on the board when you press START for 120 volts from that wire to ground, if you have power there, either the belt switch is bad, that thermal fuse is bad

Customer: replied 1 year ago.
I apologize for doubting you. It just doesn't make logical sense that a fuse would read less than an ohm resistance if it was blown. Especially given the specs, and the test procedure from the manufacturer say the same, and rely on that approach. But, if that's the way it is...I went ahead and replaced the thermal fuse on the blower with the new one I just bought. I reassembled the dryer, and it is doing the same thing. I am guessing it's either (1) the controller PCB, or (2) the motor. Any other ideas?
Customer: replied 1 year ago.
Also, I can hear relays or something clicking in the PCB, but nothing is happening.
Expert:  Appliance Guru replied 1 year ago.

Why did you not check the voltage out of the RY5 connector first?

Customer: replied 1 year ago.
Because I have to reassemble the dryer as far as that point to check that voltage. It was three more screws to just start the dryer up. So I figured I would just see if the new thermal fuse fixed the problem. I ohmed out the belt switch (it's fine) and replaced the thermal fuse with the new one. I will go measure that voltage if you think it's going to tell me something more.
Expert:  Appliance Guru replied 1 year ago.

YOu could have a bad relay on the board. YOu should have 120 out the BROWN wire to ground when you press start see if you do. Or see what you do have.

Customer: replied 1 year ago.
I just pulled the RY5 connector off and looked at it. Then replaced it. I stuck the meter probe in the back of the connector to try and touch the socket/pin so I could measure the voltage there. I had my wife try and start a cycle, and lo and behold, the whole thing worked. Drum started turning and heat is on. Now I think it was corrosion on that contact, and by pulling it off and putting it back on I reseated it and made it good. OR it's an intermittent relay failure. I did hear the relay clicking when it wasn't working before, so maybe not.
Expert:  Appliance Guru replied 1 year ago.

I have seen faulty plugs or bad connections at those plugs as they are so cheap, that does happen..just keep an eye on it glad we got it....like I said always something with these things!

We are on the honor system for our time, all I ask is please rate my service using the STAR RATING SYSTEM at the top of your page before you leave. Us techs only receive a SMALL PORTION of whatever you have chosen to pay after a good star rating is chosen. If you are not happy with the service please let me know before leaving a negative rating. This is the only way I am paid or credited through the site for my time. This will also allow you to get directly back to me for FREE follow up questions and tips are greatly appreciated! Thanks

Customer: replied 1 year ago.
I am sorry, but I am a bit unsatisfied here.If the theory about a corroded contact is correct, the only reason "we got it" was because you asked me to test for something else, and I happened to disturb the connection in the process. I am still very suspicious that the thermal fuse that I pulled out and replaced is totally fine, given that it measured fine (and I acknowledge that you say that can happen even if they are bad). Especially because there is no reason the thing would have overheated in the first place. There is very little lint in the dryer blower assembly and no blockage in the vent line at all.I paid 28$ for somebody to tell me to replace the thermal fuse yesterday, and then they were not available to answer my follow questions earlier after I went through and verified that everything measured in spec. I only had a few hours to work on this, so then I paid another 45$ to ask again and get somebody who was available today (you). So, 73$ got me a 'poke around until it works' as the net result, plus another 18$ for the fuse that I probably didn't need to replace. I am probably going to ask for a refund of at least one of these threads.
Customer: replied 1 year ago.
My wife just tried running a load, and it would start, the drum would turn a few degrees, and then it would quit. It did that about 4 times, then started up and turned for about 60 seconds. Then it stopped again.
Expert:  Appliance Guru replied 1 year ago.

OK lets back up a bit sir, You stated this to me"I am having a problem with my Samsung DV331AER dryer. It turns on and allows me to see the settings, but it shows an hourglass and doesn't actually start the cycle. There is no delay mode setting I can find, and I just took the top cover off to check the belt. It is in tact and looks fine. I have disassembled the dryer and gone through all the parts in the technical information sheet on the back of the cabinet. Here are my findings Thermostat 1 (blower housing thermal limit): 0.3 Ohms Thermistor (blower housing): 11.8 kOhms (it's about 73F in my house right now) Thermostat 3 (heater assy): 0.3 Ohms Thermostat 4 (heater assy): 0.2 Ohms Heater Element: 9.8 Ohms Door Switch: Checks out in both pressed and unpressed positions Belt Cut-Off Switch: Checks out Lamp Resistance: 120 Ohms (sheet says it should be 80 - 100 Ohms) Centrifugal Switch Contacts 3 and 4): 1.8 Ohms (sheet says it should be 2.88 Ohms) Centrifugal Switch Contacts 4 and 5): 1.8 Ohms (sheet says it should be 3.4 Ohms) I would very much appreciate some direction. "

You asked for "some direction" You never said you replaced the thermal fuse yesterday or that someone told you that, further you questioned it so I told you what to check at the RY5 connector....you didn't do that even after saying you did not want to take the whole unit apart, then post back to me saying you put a new thermal fuse in it???? I told you what to check then you do and it started to work. Look, it is Sunday and yes I know what the issue is not that is is shuttering as you say but given the fact you are unsatisified I have wasted too much free time on this, I have not been paid anything and have passed up 5 other customers to post back to you. Take care and good luck