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Hello my name is***** will be helping you today. Turn the temperature controls to highest settings on both sides and I want you to pull the refrigerator out from the wall so you access the rear panel. Take off the back panel and locate the compressor (big black round ball) do you hear it running or feel it?
Okay, so then everything is on top. So you have no compressor or condenser fan running. Is the evap fan running?
The fan located inside the freezer.
You may have to hold down the door switch to listen for it. You can also hear it with it closed but have to listen closely.
Okay that means youre not getting a signal to start the compressor. You replaced W10789107 which is the main PCB correct. Have you checked the inverter board? This is what it looks like, http://www.repairclinic.com/PartDetail/b121p4/Kitchenaid-Refrigerator-Inverter-Board/W10629033/2997771?modelNumber=KSSP48QTS00&ss=a4b121c13d881163&mr=1Inspect that to make sure youre getting 120 volts into it. If youre getting 120 volts into that board then its not sending power back out to the compressor. If youre not getting power than more than likely the temperature control needs to be replaced.
Part number for the temperature control is W10468941
Bad inverter board then
I'd return that other part as well if you can
I may have misunderstood you. Is that what is showing now or was that only when you put it through diagnostics
From what I understand you cannot run a full diagnostic if the compressor, cond fan and evap fan arent running. Give me one second I may have found something
What year was this unit made?
Now are you 100% the model number is *****? If so, then 99% chance that inverter board is the culprit. Confirm thats the model number and if it is you can try one thing that is a long shot but may be the issue. Take the back wall of your freezer and locate the bi-metal, it will look like thishttp://www.repairclinic.com/PartDetail/b121p4/Kitchenaid-Refrigerator-Defrost-Thermostat/W10225581/1872722?modelNumber=KSSP48QTS00&ss=a4b121d881163-x74696d6572&mr=1Since that part isn't frozen you will have to get a cup of ice water, make sure ice is filled to the top and put that bi-metal inside the cup of water and check it for continuity. If you know how to splice wires, splice the two wires going to that part and connect them together. Make sure to power off the unit before doing so. If you splice the wires make sure to leave room so you can reconnect the wires if that isnt the issue. If you get continuity or if you splice them and it still doesnt work, that inverter board has to be whats wrong.
YOu will have to wait for the bi-metal to freeze, so wait about 10 minutes or so with it fully emerged inside the cup
The alarm is telling you the unit isnt cooling properly and welcome to my world ha. Its highly unlikely that bi-metal is bad. I found the wiring diagram for your unit and it appears that since you already replaced the main PCB, the only other thing is the inverter board becasue all wires from the inverter board go directly to that main pcb you already replaced. That means the inverter board isnt sending power to the compressor and fans and such. I would try that bi-metal though since its a $20 part and the inverter board is like 300
A wiring diagram would help me out a lot more, do you ahve that as well? TO make sure it matches up with what I have.
And if that inverter board isnt sending the proper voltage to the compressor, it will not turn on with the diagnostics.
okay thank you.
I dont see it
Yes, its the exact wiring diagram I have. You can trace the wires yourself, trace the wires from the evap fan the cond fan and the compressor. Unless that board you got is bad, the issue is the inverter board.
You rarely ever get that specific information. I have yet to find anything, I even have the complete service manual for this unit that specifies why thats happening. I have ran into basically this exact issue and the inverter board fixed the problem.
That doesnt specify why its happening*
If i was working on this unit, Id jump out that t-stat and if that didnt work I'd replace the inverter board.
You're welcome, good luck. If I have answered your question please rate the answer. Its important to note that we can chat even after you have accepted the answer.
That bi metal needs to be frozen for it to work. It will not complete the circuit unless its frzoen. The diag cannot freeze that part.
I think that diag will only show you if the bi-metal is open or closed.
Open=bad, you want it closed. Closed means it can complete the circuit. Thats why I told you to splice the wires you are essentially cutting out that part from the equation.
Ohm the compressor wont do you any good, unless you want to check to see if the compressor would function when fixed. If you had a bad compressor youre fans would still be working. And yes if the bi-metal was staying open even when its freezing then that part would be bad.
If you really want to check everything, start tracing wires but you will need a meter to check power at various places.
I would assume the new board wouldn't be bad and I went on my diagnostics based on that. good catch though