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Kelly, Appliance Technician
Category: Appliance
Satisfied Customers: 21142
Experience:  Highly accurate diagnostician with over 30 years experience!
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My power board burned upa month ago. I replaced with rebuild

Customer Question

my power board burned upa month ago. I replaced with rebuild unit and washer will run but errors showing motor issue's. I have replaced motor and hall sensor even though they tested ok via ohm meter. Reading online also states to replace break resistor if power board burns up near relay area. Replaced brake resistor even though it ohm'd out ok. unit runs through self test just fine. Sometime can get unit to agate sometimes, fails to start without help and fails at reverse direction. Spin cycle will also fail with load unless assisted. Then unit will complete spin cycle. What do you think????
Submitted: 1 year ago.
Category: Appliance
Expert:  Kelly replied 1 year ago.

Hi, welcome to Just Answer. My name is ***** ***** I look forward to helping you! If the motor and power board has been replaced, the issue is likely to be with the communication between the board and the motor. It may be that the connectors have worn over time or there is a break in the harness somewhere. Have you inspected the wiring?

Customer: replied 1 year ago.
I have ohm'd all components at the device and at the connections at the board plugged and unplugged. I have also traced all the cables through the unit and disconnected connections at lower end and checked for broken pins and/or burned connections and correct ohms for each device. Last night, I also checked the drive engage motor for 120v control voltage and 120v signal voltage after locked-in operation to make sure invertor was seeing the engaged connection. I have checked for 5v,10v,20v, dc power from main board connection to invertor. I have also verified 12v dc to hall sensor. However the manual states the hall sensor should show a 12v pulse if you spin the tub. Sometimes I see a 12v pulse, but my meter shows more of a strong 6v pulse. Using a Fluke 77III. This reading is from both the old hall sensor/motor and the new one. Both motors ohm out at 8ohms per leg and the brake resistors measure 70ohms. Both hall sensors ohm out at 9ohms. Washer started to work a little bit under a towel cycle with just a few towels. Failed part way into the agitation cycle and would not restart. Went to just a rinse cycle and unit still had trouble starting to spin the drum under load. I had to magnet the door open and help spin up basket to get it started. Is there anyway to get voltage and/or amp reading from the inverter to the motor to see if the new invertor is bad? Also, is it possible that the external rotor drum magnets are getting week? The inverter was a rebuilt unit, seems like it works somewhat without a load and unit test, but after getting warm does not get enough power to the motor when under a load. I feel like the motor is struggling getting the right voltage or something it does not start turn smooth and has a lugging sound. I have also taken apart the bearing housing unit to make sure that the shaft bearings and brass sleeve were not bound and/or scoring each other cause unnecessary drag on the motor.
Customer: replied 1 year ago.
Come on guys what are we doing???