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Appliance Tech Dave
Appliance Tech Dave, Home Appliance Technician
Category: Appliance
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Experience:  30 years experience specializing in Whirlpool, KitchenAid and Kenmore
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I'm reading a Q&A from a couple years ago when the oven would

Customer Question

I'm reading a Q&A from a couple years ago when the oven wouldn't heat up. In my case my oven was working fine ... I moved it by hand four doors down the street to a new house now the only thing that works are the burners. No lights on the panel or anything. An electrician has checked the 220 power and has verified it is entering the range. I just replaced the main circuit bord that sits in the middle of the four burners under the black enamel panel. What do you think?
Submitted: 1 year ago.
Category: Appliance
Expert:  Appliance Medic replied 1 year ago.
Welcome and thank you for your question. I will be the professional that will be assisting you.
Hi, that's very odd. Right away I would have thought power issue for sure. If the burners work, that means you're getting 110v for sure. I personally would still check the terminal block on the oven where the cord connects. It just doesn't make sense.
This ovens elements are powered by the control board. The only thing stopping power from getting to the elements is the thermostat on the back. It's in the link below. The thermostat should have continuity. You can take the two wires off and tape them together if you do not have a meter to test for continuity.
If the thermostat is good, then you have a power issue. The board is new and the thermostat is the last possible option. I personally suspect a power issue because the thermostat is in place for an overheat condition. So unless you self cleaned the oven before you moved it, I doubt the thermo is bad.
http://www.searspartsdirect.com/kitchenaid-range-parts/4451442/0022/664/model-KDRP407HSS4/0593/0122007.html
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Thank you
Expert:  Appliance Tech Dave replied 1 year ago.
Hello, since this is a dual fuel and the top works we know you are getting the L2 side of the 240 volt line were it needs to be but since the control is not lit up we are not getting the L1 side. From the control block where the cord attaches to the oven there are a red, a black and the center white wires. Have your electrician check from the black to the white and there should be 120vac. Also confirm 120vac from the red to white and 240vac from the black to the red. Your problem is the supply voltage. Let me know what you find.
Expert:  Appliance Tech Dave replied 1 year ago.
Hello, have you gotten the electric supply corrected?

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