Appliance Repair Questions? Ask a Technician for Answers ASAP
Okay, I just wanted to make sure you saw it first. They say Timer switches 1,5,7,10, 11 and 16 are closed. Then they want you to trace the closed circuits with a wavy line. Okay, so I did get the drawing down through 10, 11, the Cold Valve (from 10) to the neutral side. But since they said 5, 7 and 16 are closed, I thought any time switches are closed current can flow through them. Since I've already got hot current going from the left side in sort of a big rectangle to the neutral side, why doesn't it also go from the neutral side back (leftward) through to "Suds" turn left and then go through both 7 and 16 back to the neutral side? So I said the Timer Motor, Agitate Solenoid and Hi side of the Drive Motor were activated. They say not. Why doesn't the current go through all these switches also if it has already made the circuit from hot side to neutral around the bigger rectangle (the mixing valve)?
Switch 16 is right between is right between Switches 5 and 7.
I'm sorry I wasn't quite done now that I look at it. Here is the corrected diagram. The purple line in the middle is where the path where electricity would flow. In this instance with the switches that are closed, the washer would be filling up with warm water (both hot and cold)
That's okay. That much I assume you missed because you were concentrating on the other stuff. I had gotten that part right. I just sent a big reply somewhere off in to cyberspace, but if you don't get it, I was just trying to sum up, saying what I think you're saying. I should know better but I always thought of current going basically in one direction, basically hot to neutral, whereas you're saying hot and neutral meet across the load. Because the hot current can't get to the left side (in the diagram) of the Agitate Motor, Timer Motor and Hi side of the Drive Motor through the open Switch 2, they aren't activated. Is that basically correct?
Wow, you taught me a lot in a few minutes. With that basic concept down I can now work my way through the other diagrams. Thanks so much. Your help is greatly appreciated as always.
Hey, Appliance Doc, I rewired the two wires as you suggested above, E4 Aux on Clock Board to BA on the thermostat and L1 to Contact 1 on the Oven Lamp Switch. Now everything works fine except that the FAN comes on as soon as you turn on the Breaker with the Selector Knob in the OFF position. When you turn it 1/4 or 1/8 turn clockwise and the Oven starts to heat, the FAN goes off. To refresh your memory, go to http://www.flickr.com/photos/107933577@N08/ and look at the Current Wiring for Oven CWE5800ACB. You'll see the drawing with the colored lines. That is how it looks right now with the FAN problem.
Thanks, get back to you.
Worked like a charm! You are a prince and a gentleman. Definitely could not have done it without you. Also learned a valuable lesson. I usually use the numbered tape for wires and their components but I got lazy and in a hurry and thought I could remember. I'll never do that again. I'll give you a better than usual tip in the next few days for this, even if I ask another question. You deserve it. Thanks. Glad that one is over.