Appliance Repair Questions? Ask a Technician for Answers ASAP
My name is XXXXX XXXXX I am an authorized KitchenAid and Whirlpool service tech and I can help you today.
so it is just the display that is not working at this point, right?
the best and most accurate way to diagnose the interface rather then the manager board is to power the machine off for two minutes. disconnect the ribbon cable and connectors to the display interface and power the unit back on. If the machine gives you an error right away or beeps as soon as you plug it in then you will need the interface board.
If it doesnt give you an error until you actually try to set a program then hit start it is the manager baord.
It will usually be the interface board if just the display goes out.
The manager board is just a secondary board that will control other features to the oven.
And usually with a power surge you will find the main board failing or shorting out first then the interface board since they are on the same circuit.
yes. I know it will be hard to tell or see if there is a display, but you should hear the beeping. The audible alarma should sound with the error.
Do you have anyone that can kill the power while you wait by the machine?
that might help for you to tell if the machine beeps as you plug it in or flip power back on.
oh. ok wait a minute before you do so.
take the interface board out and smell it, does it smell like it is burnt?
or do you see any smolder or burn marks?
Or do any wires look burnt?
ok and no smell?
It wont always burn or smell burnt. sometimes the board will look and smell fine but still will be bad.
You cant check the board with continuity.
continuity will only show a path or current flow. it doesnt show that during operation it has full voltage.
There is actually no definitive way to check the interface. it is a matter of process of elimination. unfortunately.
Run the test i told you and that will give you the answer you need. And like i said above, when you have a power surge and it takes out the main board, usually the interface is the cause for a non display.
that is the only board that controls the display
I know it is definitely a huge bummer. but what are you going to do?
it happens, dont kick yourself.
at least you are able to fix this machine yourself and save some money ont he repairs.
I can also tell you where to get the board cheaply and have it shipped directly to you quickly. then you can install it and save some money .
let me check the wiring diagram and flow charts. be right back.
yes, i know it is always the most expensive baords that go first. that is why they price them that high in the first place. because they know the most common parts to fail will be used up first. and they make them more expensive.
you got it. be right back.
Nothing on p6 until in self clean mode. you should have 120v to p1 and p2 then p1 to p3
oh boy. you got hit hard.
ok. please test ill be here.
i will get part info for you.
I would put this into your insurance and put a claim in so you can get some money back at least. we this sort of thing all the time in long island, new york.
power surges and lightning strikes happen all the time. Then of course last year with hurricane sandy. had a lot of insurance claims for that as well.
I am sure when all adds up, to replace the parts for your micro, wall oven, ref. and wash and other appliances, it is in the thousands. If you put a claim in you make some money.
part number for the user interface is W10312207 and should cost about $285.
oh. ok. good.
if it beeps you will know it.
ok. nothing on the display?
and what board did you replace?
what is the part number of the control transformer you said you replaced?
no, you should be testing to the terminal with the connectors connected. best and most accurate way to test. but if you havent replaced the main control board yet, or checked the high limit switch I would replace those.
oh. ok. then that is why there is no voltage.
and this machine has a thermal fuse as well. did you check that for continuity?
it should be just behind the lock.
if that has blown out with the power surge then there will be no power to the display or to the board.
it is a roundish thermostat that has two wires going to it. if you pull the wires off of it, with power off to the machine, and you dont have continuity then it is bad and is the whole problem,.
if you have checked it and it does have continuity then the main control board needs to be replaced.
did you say that you have the top of the oven off?
if so it is under that.
just by the door lock
if you dont see it there. sometimes it is located on the back of the unit. on the back access panel. but for this model i am almost certain it is by the door lock.
you said before that the machine will heat and go into a cycle, correct? if so then the thermostat, high limit fuse is ok. sorry. forgot you said that.
if the thermostat was bad it wouldnt let the oven heat at all.
nevermind, if you can heat the oven.
if you are getting the bake cycle to come on but no display. change the display board.
ok. if it does cycle on and heat then the fuse is good.
and again, if there is still no display change the display board. I listed the part number above.
W10312207. and can be order from www.repairclinic.com
but dont kick yourself. it happens
just order the board and you will be ok.
please get back to me here if you need anything else.
if you feel that i have helped you and helped to answer your questions please remember to rate my performance below with ok service or better rating.
and if you have any other questions after rating me positively just get back to me here and I will help you more for no additional charge.
yeah. that happens sometimes. just power it off at the circuit.
The board that you need subs over to the part number i listed, W10312207
it is the most updated board for your model oven.
you got it. that is what i am here for. glad i could help.