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I just accessed this control board. I wish the guide was a bit more clear. I don't remember seeing this board offered on any replacement parts websites so I didn't consider what was behind the selector knob.
Of course there was no obvious damage to the original motor control board.
What a waste of money spent on a part I may never need. Oh well..
Do you know of any place that takes returns on electrical components sold to costomers?
We bought the part at a Sears Parts depot with a no return stamped on the receipt. Oh well. Should have contacted Just Answer first.
What considerations are needed when replacing the control board behind the selector knob?
I was able to purchase the 'other' control board the one behind the knobs. I attached all the connectors and started the washer. The unit however still does not spin dry the clothes. Again I did check the ohm readings on the motor and they checked ok.
My wife would give me a big kiss if I can get her machine running...
I'm in and out but i'll check my computer as often as i can
This website should provide the documents you need.
Can we continue the troubleshooting process of our washer today.
Did you get a chance to look at the documents at the URL I sent?
My wife is expecting me to have her washer up and running today.
It's been on the fritz for almost 2 weeks
On that URL Frigidaire document do a FIND search for 970-C45072-00 and it will take you to all the PDF documents for that washer
The control board PN at the front of the machine was XXXXXXXXX The replacement part I received was XXXXXXXXX The replacement unit did not have the connection for the reed valve that was located by the laundry soap drawer.
Ok according to my info the one you have the control is no longer available for Kenmore washers. The control board they gave you does not cross reference to your machine.However when I cross reverenced to Frigidaire I found that it is still available but under the Frigidaire part numberNNN-NN-NNNNbr/>I still am of the view that the control board is bad, since the board is no longer available and it does not have any other board that it crosses to other then Frigidaire I cant really tell you whats going on.Are you still getting a e43 error?
The code presentation on the replacement board presents differently than the original board. The original board would repeat the codes E43 but this board appears to flash E46 and then stops. It will repeat the same code if you push the start and cancel buttons again.
The original board shows no indication of visual damage or cold solder connections under a strong lighted magnifying glass.
That's right. Both boards have the same issue. The machine with add water for a rinse, do about 20 slow tumbles in both directions, and then drain without spinning. Is there an imbalance interlock?
OK, I will get back to you in a few minutes.
There is open continuity whether the door is open or closed. Would a bad door interlock not shut down other functions?
How do I get into that tight spot? How about I jumper the spades on the board to simulate the door being closed and see what happens?
Why does a faulty switch not affect other functions and why would the E code indicate a bad board? I've sunk $500 into boards I don't need.
Could I try to jumper the and do a rinse / spin to confirm your diagnosis?
The Ecode chart said replace the "control board". I didn't notice until after I bought the wrong one that there were 2 control boards, the other board referred to as the speed control board.
I'll try Ebay.
The gasket on this machine must be different as it does not have a retaining ring that I can see.
There are two screws holding the switch interlock block in place. If I remove those screws I could fish out the block but getting back in place to secure it would be extremely difficult.
Any other suggestions?
i jumped the spades on J2 and when i started a wash cycle the indicator lights for the speed of spin dropped from high spin to no spin and the normal wash or rinse spin did not even start. I need clean coveralls so I removed the jumper and started a quick wash cycle which is running now with the high speed spin indicator light on. It did not spin.
Are you available after the game or tomorrow? The drawing shows the door interrupter switch in circuit with a wax motor ???, a door lock and a door lock auxiliary switch. How do these interact?
My wife just gave me a tea with a slice of fresh banana loaf for tenacity but some reward romance tonight would be in the cards for successful troubleshooting, if you know what I mean...
That's an expensive place to enjoy tea and loaf.
Were you able to see the wiring diagram so we can be on the same page?
how can I send it to you?
I provided the Frigidaire link last week ( http://b2b.frigidaire.com/support/ResultsPage.asp?strModel=970&USER=) which provides a pdf of Washer Tech Data Sheet (the same document) found inside my washer with instructions on getting a code, The Ecode chart, trouble shooting directions and a wiring diagram.
I have the door lock solenoid block out
There were a number of manuals offered for the machine. You must have picked the wrong one. I downloaded one that was a carbon copy of the doc found in my machine.
There is a panel but not sure how to open it. Not sure anything is behind it.
I can fax or email you a scan of the schematic.
There is no actual switch. Only the wax motor that moves and forces the contact of two points, which I assume is the signal the control panel uses to allow high speed spin. I applied 120V power to the wax motor and although it gets worm it does not move linearly. Could I solder the two points to bypass the effect of the wax motor to get the washer working?
Did you receive the emailed photo of the door lock block with the cover removed?
I purchase parts from the Sears parts depot
what is a PTC?
What does the acronym PTC mean?
Positive temperature co-efficient - PTC heating elements
The resistance on the PTC in the wax motor when cold was about 1500 ohms. When it was warm it was about 700.
It seems the PTC is fine but the wax motor is defective. The wax motor performs two functions in the assembly. It positively latches the door lock mechanism and simultaneously closes the contact points for the door switch signal to the control board.
The schematic shows two normally open door switch contact points (main and auxiliary). I'm confused as the diagnostic chart indicates that the control board is looking for continuity on the J2.1 and J2.2 wires.
Until I get a new wax motor or if necessary a door lock assembly , can I fool the control board?
I am confused with the diagnostic step #7 testing the J contacts (R/B and Blk wires).
The test chart indicates that if the continuity shows open, the lock assembly is defective. Looking at the contacts in the lock assembly associated with the R/B and Blk wires, the contact is in fact normally open and my lock assembly does not look damaged or mal formed. The door switch contact would only be closed when the solenoid is energized and / or the arm of the wax motor slides over the detent on the locking bar ensuring the points are closed indicating to the control board that the door is closed at locked.
My point is, why would reading an open circuit as per Test #7.2 on page 5 indicate a faulty door switch assembly?
The above conclusion is when the assembly is in my hand.
How do I provide a tip at this stage of the transaction?
Sorry Mike, I forgot to mention that I had removed the striker from the door and inserted it into the lock assembly. Oddly, other than the white lever pivoting when the striker is inserted, which allows the points under the copper leaf to close when the solenoid is activated there are no mechanical changes made to any of the switch contact points. The solenoid activated main switch and wax motor actuated aux switch) only make contact when both the solenoid is energized and the heated wax motor extends.
Not to beat a dead horse but my point is this; based on what I see with both contact points being in the normally open position, an open circuit would be perfectly normal for Test 7.2 and would not be an indicator of a bad lock assembly.
In my case the circuit test #7.2 did show an open circuit but the actual fault was really caused by the wax motor not extending to close the switch points signally to the control board that the door was closed and safe to spin.
Sorry to belabor the issue but I am a marine engineer and want to fully understand the circuit. Please let me know if my conclusions are correct.
BTW, I read on a repair blog that the wax motor should also be replaced whenever the control board is replaced.
what is the MCU?