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yes, we just opened it up, tested the heater, continuity is 26 Ωthe fans both run fine.the refrigeration system works fine, its just that the evaporator below freezes into a solid block, stopping airflow to the upper section; we've put up with thawing it manually with a hairdryer for too long.I wonder how do we test that damper if it is functional? damper part# XXXXXI am looking at either that damper, the controller board for it, or the thermistor? thermocouple? sending temperature/current to the board being faulty.
I am sorry I have been trying to post for a while. The site stopped working.
At the top of those evaporator coils is a thermostat for the heater, its a disk shaped kind of part with 2 wires coming outo of it. It should clip right to the aluminum of the evaporator. That part must be cold to test. Once you have it cold disconnect the connector from it and ohm that part as well. Do you get a near zero ohm reading as if you touched the probes together.The heater is good, that is a fine reading.Thanks,Barry
Is it this cylinder clipped on the copper in below image?http://puu.sh/50yLN.PNG
http://puu.sh/50yQe.PNGAlso, is this the only circuit board in this fridge (aside from the digital control panel)http://puu.sh/50yKI.PNG
I have arrowed the thermostat for you in the image below. That part needs to be frosty cold. If you get continuity cold that part is good, the board you mentioned earlier will be the bad defrost part. W10205552If you do not get continuity when cold the thermostat arrowed in the image is the bad part. What is happening is your freezer is not defrosting like it should, that is causing the frost buildup in the coils of the freezer and that is as you said blocking the airflow to the fresh food section. There are 3 parts, that thermostat, the heater which tested good and that main board. You test the 2 parts in the freezer to either include or eliminate the board as the bad part.
The sensor is for temperature. If its frosting the coils the sensor is good.If you have any questions please ask me, if not please leave a rating.ThanksBarryCLICK TO ENLARGE
i'm not sure if this board W10205552 and this board http://puu.sh/50yKI.PNG are the same or perform the same function; just checking if the board in the image is the one you mentioned.
I just measured resistance on that thermostat that you pointed out in the image at frosted cold, and it's in the megaohms range. Does that mean this part is bad? (also, can i have the part number for it if possible, thanks)
Also, sadly i took a look at the part and the terminal connections on the board do not match.http://www.appliancepartspros.com/whirlpool-cntrl-elec-w10317076-ap4560750.htmli am using this for part referencehttp://www.manualslib.com/manual/100236/Maytag-Mfd2562vem3.html?page=12but this is a Mfd2562vem0 which is stated to be a 'discontinued' model - nearly identical parts so it did help a lot.