Your answer was pretty clear but I have another question. If there is oil splatter under the machine and on the Stator plates, Is this an indication that the bearings are failing and need to be replaced? Also I spent a lot of money on parts and with my labor it was $500 to repair this machine. Most people would not have spent that kind of money to repair an 5 y/o washer. Would I have better served this customer to have advised them to by a new machine?
Hi Tyler, Thank you for your answers. I'm going to look at a Fisher Paykel double oven on Monday. The complaint is movement of the self clean door latches on both ovens which prevents the oven doors from closing. I don't have the model number yet so information is a little vague as I have not seen the unit yet. Have you ever seen anything like this? The customer states he has to physically push the latches over to close the oven doors. I have never worked on an FP before.
Hi Tyler, I went and looked at the DCS by Fisher&Paykel oven today. It is a WOSD230SS model. Of course the model number was missing off the oven but with help from Tech Support we were able to determine the number. This oven was in bad conditions as far as the hinges and front oven panel. I really couldn't find much wrong with the door latches accept that things didn't line up because of poor installation and bent parts, The latches appear to be center right but with new hinges and other parts they will probably line up better. The latches themselves are pretty simple mechanically speaking. Two micro switches and one 120v motor with a cam that locks and unlocks the door. Nothing seemed bent and I used a cheater cord to power the motor. I stopped the motor at the point where the latches were adjusted as far left as possible. Both micro switches test good for continuity as well. So I can't see that there would be an ERC problem either. I ordered the two door locks as well but will probably be sending them back. This model has the latch in the middle front so lucky for me I did not have to pull the oven out more than 8 inches or so. Thanks for your advise earlier with the limited information I had. I was nervous about this one but this repair turned out to be not to difficult. I might consider signing up for the monthly service for unlimited questions. Since I am still fairly new at this it seems like I have questions about everything. I changed a snubber ring on a Maytag single belt the other day and I was surprised that it fixed the balance problem. My trainer told me that anytime one of those Maytags has balance problems to tell the customer to get a new machine. Has that been your experience?
I tried to take out the inner basket to see if there was something under it. Couldn't do it but it was probably unnecessary anyway. I couldn't visibly see anything wrong with the old snubber but took a chance and replaced it anyway. The springs were all attatched and looked good. So are you you saying these transmissions sometimes start to drag causing a slow spin? I suppose slow spin could also be a worn belt.
Have you got time for another question? I'm going to look at a GE slide in range, Model #JGSP30GEP2BG. The customer states that he already knows he needs a new control board. The clock stopped working years ago. He said eventually all the spark ignitors on the stove top stopped working as well so he lights the burners with a match. I was thinking that I need to replace the clock first before I can diagnose the ignition module or the individual ignitors. Would these components work independently of the clock?