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Jon
Jon, Appliance Technician
Category: Appliance
Satisfied Customers: 3508
Experience:  Appliance Service Technician with 10+ years experience.
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It looks like my blower is not coming up either. First I thought

Customer Question

It looks like my blower is not coming up either. First I thought it was a heating problem
Submitted: 1 year ago.
Category: Appliance
Expert:  Jon replied 1 year ago.

Jon :

Hello

Customer:

hi

Jon :

Can you please tell me what exactly is happening here with your dryer? Is it not blowing the hot air out? or is it not heating at all?

Customer:

What I noticed is that the gas burner was not coming on

Customer:

So I thought there was something wrong with the burner/sensor system

Customer:

I saw it come on once but not again

Customer:

I checked both thermistors

Customer:

I pulled the blue one out of the back and it was at 10k at 160F

Customer:

I measure the other one at the control panel

Customer:

I measured the coils and the igniter, all had low resistance

Customer:

then I saw that the blower wasn't turning

Customer:

Does the dryer sense the blower turner and will it keep the burner off if it doesn't sense it

Customer:

?

Jon :

No on this model the heat is separate from the blower wheel not turning. two separate problems here.

Jon :

Ok. lets try a few things first.

Customer:

ok

Jon :

do you have the front or top panel flipped up or open on the dryer/

Customer:

I have the front of the dryer off.

Jon :

ok. good.

Customer:

I have the filter below the drum off exposing the blower

Jon :

ok. good.

Jon :

with your meter can you take a reading of the thermal fuse. it should show continuity. do you know how to check for continuity?

Customer:

I do.

Customer:

Where is the thermal fuse?

Customer:

Keep in mind that I saw ignite once last night

Jon :

ok. sorry on this model there is a thermal cut out or high limit switch. and I remember you saying you saw the igniter glow last night. But it dodnt come on yet today right?

Jon :

the high limit and cut off are on the heater canister around the igniter.

Customer:

No not today.

Customer:

I have the schematic in front of me. I found it in the control panel

Jon :

you would have to remove the wires to the thermostats with power off to the machine and check each thermostat for continuity. if either one doesnt show good continuity then they will need to be replaced and would be the reason for why the igniter is not coming on now.

Jon :

let me look at the diagrams now. give me one minute.

Jon :

you found what in the control panel?

Customer:

a Gas Dryer Wiring Diagram

Customer:

I notice nine wires going to the blower. Are you sure there is no feedback?

Jon :

I have the diagrams up in front of me now. I show the thermostats on the heater canister around the igniter and the thermistors around the blower assembly.

Jon :

what do you mean feedback?

Customer:

I'm wondering if the computer senses that the blower is not spinning and won't start up the burner.

Jon :

on this model dryer there is two thermistors and about three thermostats and safeties. then there is an igniter, gas valve and solenoids.

Customer:

Is there a manual way to start the blower with the touch screen?

Jon :

it is possible, but I dont believe that I have ever seen the heat not come on because the blower wheel wasnt turning.

Jon :

can you do one quick check and seeif the belt is around the drum or if it is broken?

Customer:

Can you give me the numbers of the thermostats you want me to check. I've already checked the thermistors

Customer:

The belt is intact the drum spins fine

Jon :

the thermostats again would be around the heater canister where the flame from the igniter is. they are parts diagram number 756 and 757 on the diagram below.

Customer:

I have the diagram

Jon :

but please first tell me if the dryer drum belt is off the drum?

Customer:

no

Customer:

the drum turns

Customer:

the belt is there

Jon :

on its own?

Customer:

Yes

Jon :

ok. but yet the dryer doesnt heat nor does the blower wheel spin?

Customer:

correct

Customer:

It looks like the blower wants to turn but can't its oscillating a little

Customer:

It moves freely when I turn it by hand

Jon :

that is strange since the drum belt will go around a motor pulley. and the motor shaft is attched to the blower wheel. so if the drum spins that tells us the motor is running. so therefor the blower wheel should be rotating as well.

Customer:

This has a separate blower motor

Jon :

oh. ok. gotcha. the center spline of the blower wheel has been worn out and will just spin freely around the motor shaft. it is broken. happens all the time.

Jon :

got that down. good. this is separate from no heat.

Customer:

hmmm. I feel the motor is attached. I'm not sure if that's the problem

Customer:

Let's focus on the heat first

Customer:

I'm not sure about the blower

Customer:

There are three thermostats on the wiring diagram. Two are in series with the cetrifical switch

Customer:

centrifulgal sitch

Jon :

ok. sorry. i do see that now on the diagram. there is a separate blwoer motor.

Customer:

anyway. the other is 756 and 757

Customer:

That's why I was asking about the feedback

Jon :

if the blower motor is attached properly to the motor but still will only turn by hand then we can check power to the motor. but like you said lets focuss on the heat first.

Jon :

what do you mean by feedback?

Customer:

The wiring diagram shows six wires driving three coils then three wires that come from the top of the motor symbol

Jon :

there is wiring to the motors and to the thermostats and igniter. They are on separate circuits of the board though. one side is a heating circuit and the other is a motor or operating circuit.

Customer:

I was thinking there might be a sensor in the blower motor that tells the computer the blower is turning

Customer:

Okay

Jon :

let me check the wiring diagram.

Jon :

no. i dont see a separate thermostat for the blower motor or relay that would tell the computer to shut down if the blower wasnt running.

Jon :

i can tell you this though. we can check the thermostats and then we will know if they are working fine and we will know exactly what to do.

Customer:

Okay.

Customer:

I will check them

Customer:

I'll be back

Jon :

ok. but check all thermostats with continuity not ohms. tell me if they are good.

Customer:

ok

Jon :

how is it going with the continuity check?

Customer:

ok.

Customer:

I checked 757 and 756 both have continuity

Jon :

ok. good.

Customer:

I even tried to start it again to see if the connections were bad

Jon :

now we have to check the voltage going to the igniter when in a heating cycle.

Customer:

I measured the igniter while I was there at 411 ohms

Jon :

so first unplug the connector to the igniter and put meter to ac voltage. then put the leads to the connector on the connector side not the igniter harness side. then start the dryer.

Customer:

ok

Jon :

if you have voltage there then we know all thermostats are good and the coils on the gas valve are most likely good as well. and you just have a bad igniter.

Customer:

Well, I tried starting it again to see if the connections were bad

Customer:

since I messed with them

Jon :

you can do a continuity check on the igniter as well. I would have to check the ohm and resistance chart for the igniter.

Customer:

That blower is doing weird things

Jon :

did it come on and heat at all?

Customer:

No

Jon :

what do you mean weired things

Jon :

weird things

Customer:

It shakes back and forth then very quickly then stops

Jon :

what is the blower doing?

Jon :

oh ok.

Customer:

that is the blower wheel

Jon :

do you smell a burning or electircal odor?

Customer:

no

Jon :

ok. good.

Jon :

lets continue with the igniter and voltage check to it.

Customer:

ok. I did measure the resistance of the igniter at 411 ohms

Customer:

I measured this when I checked the thermostats

Customer:

Last night I checked the voltages to the two coils and the ignighter and got nothing

Customer:

I'll do it again

Jon :

ok. yes please do. but only need to check the voltage to the igniter harness.

Jon :

let me know what voltage you get there please. Thanks

Jon :

how are you doing with the voltage check to the igniter

Jon :

?

Customer:

I checked the two gas valve coils and there was no power to either

Customer:

There is a third valve on the gas valve manifold and it had no voltage either

Customer:

I have to figure out how to get to the igniter.

Customer:

no voltage on the ignighter

Customer:

I'm running in timed dry with the heat set to high

Customer:

Hello?

Jon :

sorry i am here.

Customer:

I don't think the dryer is trying to turn on the burner

Jon :

ok. you had no voltage to the igniter or coils?

Customer:

the gas valves aren't opening, the ignighter is not glowing. There is no voltage on anything

Jon :

do you have the door panel completely off? the door switch needs to be plugged in so the power can be sent to the gas valve and igniter.

Customer:

The I'm holding the door switch. The drum is turning.

Jon :

ok. so the drum is turning but no power to the igniter or coils? ok. then that is the main board or wiring.

Jon :

have you checked that the wiring to and from the board is good and connected?

Jon :

if so, then this is a control board issue.

Customer:

I had the control panel apart. Everything was connected. I reseated everything

Customer:

This is the inverter board, not the display board

Customer:

Is there a diagnostic mode that would force things on despite the state of the sensors

Customer:

I'm getting no feedback from the computer display

Jon :

you are not getting any voltage or feedback because the board is bad.

Jon :

if the board is bad the diagnostics will not do anything to help you out. it will just stop when it gets to that point in the cycle.

Customer:

Which board? The inverter or the main cpu?

Jon :

replace the main pcb board. that is the not the display boards. it is under that.

Jon :

the main pcb.

Jon :

it is part number WE04X10107

Customer:

okay.....

Jon :

I am glad that i could help you tonight. thank you for sticking with me as we diagnose the problems with your machine.

Customer:

Got it.

Jon :

You can order the part directly through ge or at www.repairclinic.com or www.searspartsdirect.com

Customer:

Thanks

Jon :

please remember to rate my performance positively below this chat now with ok service or better rating. and if you have more questions at any time, please come back to me here and I will help you more for no additional charge.

Jon :

You are very welcome. Thank you and have a good weekend.

Customer:

okay

Jon :

Please remember to rate my performance positively now. And if you have more questions or concerns please get back to me here and i will help you more for no additional charge.

Jon :

I noticed that you still haven't rated my performance positively yet. Is there something else I can help you with?

Jon :

If not, please remember to rate my performance positively below this chat now.

Jon :

Thank you.

Customer:

I found the Technical Service Guide on-line for my dryer. I was right about the dryer. The computer controls the blower motor and gets feedback as to how fast the blower is running. If the computer doesn't see the blower running at least at 1000 rpm it won't turn on the burner. Also, I was right in that there is a built in diagnostic program in the touch screen menu which verified the problem. So the burner system was never the problem. Following the service guide I measured the resistance of the three coils on the DC blower motor and found they were all right. The problem is the inverter board anyway. I found one on e-bay for $50. Ironically, you were right anyway for the wrong reasons. But there was no reason to measure the continuity on all those sensors since the computer tells you anyway in the diagnostic mode. The advice you give is based on the old electro-mechanical timer based systems not a microprocessor based control system. I should have suspected this gap in your knowledge when you never answered my question about a diagnostic mode.

Customer:

Regards, Eric

Jon, Appliance Technician
Category: Appliance
Satisfied Customers: 3508
Experience: Appliance Service Technician with 10+ years experience.
Jon and 2 other Appliance Specialists are ready to help you
Expert:  Jon replied 1 year ago.
Eric,

I am glad that you did find the problem. But I was right in telling you to go through the steps of checking the thermostats and through process of elimination we could find that the board was the reason for the failure.


I am sorry again that I didnt have the specs for your dryer and the diagnostic checks to go over the computer the quick way. But we did find that the board was bad in the long run.

Please get back to me here if you have any other questions and I will help you more for no additional charge.

Thanks.
Customer: replied 1 year ago.

I got the new inverter board and installed it. The same problem is still there. The blower starts moving then stops. I did some more research and found the there is a built in tachometer in the blower motor that often fails. So even though the motor coils are good there is no feedback to keep it running. So I should have followed the manual and replaced the blower first then the inverter board. I wasted $70 on a new inverter board. $50 on a volt meter and $30 on JustAnswer

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