Can you please tell me what exactly is happening here with your dryer? Is it not blowing the hot air out? or is it not heating at all?
What I noticed is that the gas burner was not coming on
So I thought there was something wrong with the burner/sensor system
I saw it come on once but not again
I checked both thermistors
I pulled the blue one out of the back and it was at 10k at 160F
I measure the other one at the control panel
I measured the coils and the igniter, all had low resistance
then I saw that the blower wasn't turning
Does the dryer sense the blower turner and will it keep the burner off if it doesn't sense it
No on this model the heat is separate from the blower wheel not turning. two separate problems here.
Ok. lets try a few things first.
do you have the front or top panel flipped up or open on the dryer/
I have the front of the dryer off.
I have the filter below the drum off exposing the blower
with your meter can you take a reading of the thermal fuse. it should show continuity. do you know how to check for continuity?
Where is the thermal fuse?
Keep in mind that I saw ignite once last night
ok. sorry on this model there is a thermal cut out or high limit switch. and I remember you saying you saw the igniter glow last night. But it dodnt come on yet today right?
the high limit and cut off are on the heater canister around the igniter.
No not today.
I have the schematic in front of me. I found it in the control panel
you would have to remove the wires to the thermostats with power off to the machine and check each thermostat for continuity. if either one doesnt show good continuity then they will need to be replaced and would be the reason for why the igniter is not coming on now.
let me look at the diagrams now. give me one minute.
you found what in the control panel?
a Gas Dryer Wiring Diagram
I notice nine wires going to the blower. Are you sure there is no feedback?
I have the diagrams up in front of me now. I show the thermostats on the heater canister around the igniter and the thermistors around the blower assembly.
what do you mean feedback?
I'm wondering if the computer senses that the blower is not spinning and won't start up the burner.
on this model dryer there is two thermistors and about three thermostats and safeties. then there is an igniter, gas valve and solenoids.
Is there a manual way to start the blower with the touch screen?
it is possible, but I dont believe that I have ever seen the heat not come on because the blower wheel wasnt turning.
can you do one quick check and seeif the belt is around the drum or if it is broken?
Can you give me the numbers of the thermostats you want me to check. I've already checked the thermistors
The belt is intact the drum spins fine
the thermostats again would be around the heater canister where the flame from the igniter is. they are parts diagram number 756 and 757 on the diagram below.
I have the diagram
but please first tell me if the dryer drum belt is off the drum?
the drum turns
the belt is there
on its own?
ok. but yet the dryer doesnt heat nor does the blower wheel spin?
It looks like the blower wants to turn but can't its oscillating a little
It moves freely when I turn it by hand
that is strange since the drum belt will go around a motor pulley. and the motor shaft is attched to the blower wheel. so if the drum spins that tells us the motor is running. so therefor the blower wheel should be rotating as well.
This has a separate blower motor
oh. ok. gotcha. the center spline of the blower wheel has been worn out and will just spin freely around the motor shaft. it is broken. happens all the time.
got that down. good. this is separate from no heat.
hmmm. I feel the motor is attached. I'm not sure if that's the problem
Let's focus on the heat first
I'm not sure about the blower
There are three thermostats on the wiring diagram. Two are in series with the cetrifical switch
ok. sorry. i do see that now on the diagram. there is a separate blwoer motor.
anyway. the other is 756 and 757
That's why I was asking about the feedback
if the blower motor is attached properly to the motor but still will only turn by hand then we can check power to the motor. but like you said lets focuss on the heat first.
what do you mean by feedback?
The wiring diagram shows six wires driving three coils then three wires that come from the top of the motor symbol
there is wiring to the motors and to the thermostats and igniter. They are on separate circuits of the board though. one side is a heating circuit and the other is a motor or operating circuit.
I was thinking there might be a sensor in the blower motor that tells the computer the blower is turning
let me check the wiring diagram.
no. i dont see a separate thermostat for the blower motor or relay that would tell the computer to shut down if the blower wasnt running.
i can tell you this though. we can check the thermostats and then we will know if they are working fine and we will know exactly what to do.
I will check them
I'll be back
ok. but check all thermostats with continuity not ohms. tell me if they are good.
how is it going with the continuity check?
I checked 757 and 756 both have continuity
I even tried to start it again to see if the connections were bad
now we have to check the voltage going to the igniter when in a heating cycle.
I measured the igniter while I was there at 411 ohms
so first unplug the connector to the igniter and put meter to ac voltage. then put the leads to the connector on the connector side not the igniter harness side. then start the dryer.
if you have voltage there then we know all thermostats are good and the coils on the gas valve are most likely good as well. and you just have a bad igniter.
Well, I tried starting it again to see if the connections were bad
since I messed with them
you can do a continuity check on the igniter as well. I would have to check the ohm and resistance chart for the igniter.
That blower is doing weird things
did it come on and heat at all?
what do you mean weired things
It shakes back and forth then very quickly then stops
what is the blower doing?
that is the blower wheel
do you smell a burning or electircal odor?
lets continue with the igniter and voltage check to it.
ok. I did measure the resistance of the igniter at 411 ohms
I measured this when I checked the thermostats
Last night I checked the voltages to the two coils and the ignighter and got nothing
I'll do it again
ok. yes please do. but only need to check the voltage to the igniter harness.
let me know what voltage you get there please. Thanks
how are you doing with the voltage check to the igniter
I checked the two gas valve coils and there was no power to either
There is a third valve on the gas valve manifold and it had no voltage either
I have to figure out how to get to the igniter.
no voltage on the ignighter
I'm running in timed dry with the heat set to high
sorry i am here.
I don't think the dryer is trying to turn on the burner
ok. you had no voltage to the igniter or coils?
the gas valves aren't opening, the ignighter is not glowing. There is no voltage on anything
do you have the door panel completely off? the door switch needs to be plugged in so the power can be sent to the gas valve and igniter.
The I'm holding the door switch. The drum is turning.
ok. so the drum is turning but no power to the igniter or coils? ok. then that is the main board or wiring.
have you checked that the wiring to and from the board is good and connected?
if so, then this is a control board issue.
I had the control panel apart. Everything was connected. I reseated everything
This is the inverter board, not the display board
Is there a diagnostic mode that would force things on despite the state of the sensors
I'm getting no feedback from the computer display
you are not getting any voltage or feedback because the board is bad.
if the board is bad the diagnostics will not do anything to help you out. it will just stop when it gets to that point in the cycle.
Which board? The inverter or the main cpu?
replace the main pcb board. that is the not the display boards. it is under that.
the main pcb.
it is part number WE04X10107
I am glad that i could help you tonight. thank you for sticking with me as we diagnose the problems with your machine.
You can order the part directly through ge or at www.repairclinic.com or www.searspartsdirect.com
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You are very welcome. Thank you and have a good weekend.
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I found the Technical Service Guide on-line for my dryer. I was right about the dryer. The computer controls the blower motor and gets feedback as to how fast the blower is running. If the computer doesn't see the blower running at least at 1000 rpm it won't turn on the burner. Also, I was right in that there is a built in diagnostic program in the touch screen menu which verified the problem. So the burner system was never the problem. Following the service guide I measured the resistance of the three coils on the DC blower motor and found they were all right. The problem is the inverter board anyway. I found one on e-bay for $50. Ironically, you were right anyway for the wrong reasons. But there was no reason to measure the continuity on all those sensors since the computer tells you anyway in the diagnostic mode. The advice you give is based on the old electro-mechanical timer based systems not a microprocessor based control system. I should have suspected this gap in your knowledge when you never answered my question about a diagnostic mode.
I got the new inverter board and installed it. The same problem is still there. The blower starts moving then stops. I did some more research and found the there is a built in tachometer in the blower motor that often fails. So even though the motor coils are good there is no feedback to keep it running. So I should have followed the manual and replaced the blower first then the inverter board. I wasted $70 on a new inverter board. $50 on a volt meter and $30 on JustAnswer