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Tyler Z.
Tyler Z., Appliance Doc
Category: Appliance
Satisfied Customers: 73443
Experience:  9+ years being an appliance technician with factory training.
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I have a top loading washer. The machine fills with water and

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I have a top loading washer. The machine fills with water and won't drain.

The machine is getting electricity and will fill again if the device is started after being drained by hand.

The knob to start the timer is stiffer than normal and when pulled, the machine makes a noise like a quiet electrical hum.

The transmission on the bottom can be spun by hand for the agitator and the outer drum. Doesn't seem like any binding there. Continutity on the motor seems to match general descriptions of what I can find online.

The lid switch is operational and works as it should.

To me it seems like it is the timer in the control panel, especially because the pull is a lot harder than it has been in the past. Does this sound right, or should I spend more time diagnosing?
Hello, and thank you for using this service. I'll be helping you with your problem today.

So you are exactly right that the problem might have something to do with your timer. The lid switch would only affect the washer from draining and spinning, but not from agitating and washing. If nothing is locked up as far as the transmission goes, you either have a bad motor or a bad timer. Since you notice a physical difference when moving the knob, that would indicate that your timer is going out. Now you'd need the full model number located on a sticker below the lid down near the hinges to look up the parts and such. The model you have is accurate up until lsr7233, but after that something isn't quite correct.

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Customer: replied 3 years ago.

One thing I forgot to mention was that the capacitor on the motor was hanging from the motor. I think the bracket disconnected from the motor.The cap was still plugged into the circuitry, but just hanging in the bottom of the machine.


I went to test the capacitor, but I broke it.


I was already planning on replacing the capacitor, so it slipped my mind to ask.


Could the capacitor have been causing the problem?

So I consider the capacitor as part of the motor, but yes that would definitely cause this problem. You'd need a fairly expensive meter to test the capacitor because you need a µF setting in order to see if it matches the micro Ferads listed on the side of the capacitor. Either way, if the capacitor is broken, replace it and then see were you stand. If you still have problems I'd go with replacing the timer first.

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