Hi Tyler,Here is a quick follow-up note. I have several items of interest;1. You still owe me an answer to my original question: Is there a place where I can look up specs on oven elements?2. The replacement element arrived. As I predicted, the resistence was in the "mid twenties" -- 25.2 ohms to be precise.3. Modifying the stove took about an hour with a round file, a three-cornered file, a half-round file, and a magnet in a baggie (to clean up metal filings). The plate on the new element covered all of the holes from the old element. After some careful filing, and drilling four (4) new holes in the new mounting plate, my stove will now mount either its original $80 element or the $15 replacement version. While I was at it, I took a little extra time and tapped out the stove holes so that I could use some stainless cap screws. That should make the next change-out, (sometime in 2023?) a wee bit easier.
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Hi Tyler,Thanks for circling around and wrapping up the loose end. I may not like the answer, BUT I do appreciate the effort expended in providing it!> ...So there is no website that tell you specs for the oven on a
> unit this old. The units weren't even recorded digitally. That's too bad. Back in the 60s & 70s when I started tinkering this way, a fellow could go to "Sam's Photofacts" (now https://www.samswebsite.com/ ) and get schematics, specs, et cetera for most anything "electronic." I still have some of the stuff I bought from them, but I haven't found an equivalent for appliances. :-(Since your curriculum vitae indicates an [aerospace?] engineering background, I am sure you will understand when I say that this is not the only "project" on my [hot] plate (so to speak). Since I do like to eat, the kitchen oven did become the most pressing for a time, but it is by no means a one-and-done situation ;-) For example, I have a couple of ovens I plan to "sew together" when I get some spare time. (Make them side-by-side units, common heat chamber, common controls, dual elements.) I do a bit of custom machining from time-to-time, and an old electric range is an excellent way to cure powder coatings; but I need something a bit larger (physically) for some of the stuff on my docket. Being able find element (and control) specs would actually let me "design" the finished oven before I start -- instead of engaging in multiple rounds of "trial and error" (or, as I call it, "burn & learn.") Oh well...> But that being said, you can look up specs of the elements on
> various websites.Been there; done that; the element I want to look up always seems to be the one I can't find :-) One of the local guys said he had a cross-reference; but, he wanted to do the work, not just look up numbers -- or charge on a look-up-by-lookup basis. Unfortunately, having someone else do the work is not something I can afford -- monetarily or otherwise. I am willing to pay to have things looked up for specific repairs; but, for a ground-up design project, that would be cost-prohibitive...> The part you have received was 2585 watts.Yup, and as it turns out, the old one was rated at 2585 watts, too ;-)> That being said, you measured 25.2 ohms which is definitely> higher than what the equation comes out toActually, it is not.
[The equation I prefer is "(Voltage Squared) / Wattage = Resistance.]
The new element, according to the fellow who "has a cross-reference," is rated 2585 watts at 250 volts. That makes the expected resistance 24.18 ohms. (250*250=62,500 / 2585 = 24.18) That's well within a 10% tolerance.> Do make sure that the terminals aren't going to touch the> back panel behind the oven.Good Advice!
As it turns out, the new element's terminals are 3/8-inch *shorter* than the old element (I checked before I started modifications ;-) ). They were also 1/4-inch closer together, too. (As mentioned, I took pictures.)> Sometimes these elements will have longer terminals so when you> put the back plate on, it might get close enough to spark out if you> don't have them insulated. Oh for the days when a fellow could just grab a sheet of asbestos (typically chrysotile) paper and cement it to the part that needed protection. They kind of frown on that, now ;-) These days, exhaust manifold gasket material (available at NAPA) makes an okay substitute.-----------------------If you do happen to come up with an "appliance" equivalent for "Sam's" let me know; I'd pay additional for that answer ;-)Regardless, thanks again for everything. Sincerely, Larry Perkins