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Mike, I tested the sensor and it had the same resistance reading as the sensor for the lower oven. Is it possible that the sensor has an intermitant problem ...is that a possible problem in sensors. If it is the control panel what would be the nature of failure would cause the discribed symptoms? I don't want to sink $300 with a certain level of confidence that it will solve the problem. A few hours after a failure the oven often will operate normally.
I've been playing around with the oven. Would you guess I can't get it fail, but I heated it up to 500 degrees and turned it off. I let it cool for 15 minutes and preheated it to 500 degrees. It immediately indicated that it was at 500 degrees. Next I let it cool for a half hour and preheated it again to 500 degrees. This time it indicated that it cooled to 320. It heated 5 degrees every five of six seconds, but when it got to about 410 degrees the panel indicated that it raced through the last 90 degrees in about 7 or 8 seconds. Even though it checks out at room temperature, I would guess I have a faulty sensor. Would you agree
Let me share further findings that might add to your experience. I had checked out the sensor at room temperature and got 1080 ohms. I then interchanged the sensor of the lower and upper ovens. This time the bottom oven exhibated the failure that the top oven had. This test indicates that while the sensor checked out at room tempature it beacme irradatic and higher temperatures...greater than 370 to 400 degrees. The conclusion that could be of value to you and will probably save me $300 for a control panel is: failing the room temperature 1080 ohm resistance test for the sensor is an sure indication that the sensor is bad; however passing that test is not necessarilly an sure indication that the sensor is good or that it functions properly over it full temperature range.
Your previous advise would have led me to unnecessarily buy a control panel, but your prompting and my being a skin-flint did push me to finding a prober solution.