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This is an electric dryer. Of that I'm sure. I didn't check the model number when I was there, but I'm just going by the model number they gave me. This seems to be the only one in the house and it is a 110 Kenmore number.
How could that be? I checked to make sure it is correct and went to Sears Parts Direct. It shows up as an electric Kenmore. You're always right on, so I'm wondering what reference you're using? Can you take a second and go to Sears Direct with that number? I'll be glad to wait.
Okay. Three more based on what you've told me. (1) How does the centrifugal switch relate to the heating? (I don't know anything about that). (2) Do I need to test for that? I have a 110 test cord that I could hook up to the motor. (3) The dryer was quite gunked up inside with lots of lint. Is it possible it could have heated up down there and be causing problems for the cycling thermostat? Something I learned since I talked to you earlier is that you could do a load and it would dry fine, and then put in another load right after and it wouldn't heat. So consecutive use seems to have something to do with it, and I was wondering if maybe the heat in the bottom was faking out the cycling thermostat and telling it to cut off? It's a long shot, I know, but I looked for loose wires and didn't find any.
Okay. I'll pass that on and charge them an analysis fee and tell them when it goes out again that fee will go toward any other labor. Since I've never dealt with a centrifugal switch problem, is this like getting a new motor and switch, or is it a cost-effective repair do you think?