OK. This will take a few minutes.
OK Got the panel off. All the coils are blocked with frost top to bottom.
We're doin' great. Thank you. So I have the thermostat out. I'm gonna have to go over to a friend's tomorrow to have him check it out for continuity.
In the meantime, once all the frost is gone, can I just put back in the panel and start 'er up again? What do I do with the wires that went to the thermostat?
So this should work a few days while I get a new thermostat if this one is bad, right?
It was completely buried in frost, and just kind-of lyin' there. Isn't it supposed to be clipped onto some tubing or something? Just so I know when I put the new one back in.
I'll look at your response, then get back to you tomorrow.
Well, the refrigerator I asked about 3 weeks ago worked until now, but then it stopped cooling altogether. No frost this time, but no cooling at all. Both circulation fans run and turn on and off cyclically. How can I test if its just the mechanism that turns the compressor and pump on and off, or the whole compression system?
Well, the two fans, one in the freezer, and the other one in the back of the fridge, both turn on for a while, then turn off for a while, then turn back on.
The compressor is room temperature, so is not turning on at all. But remember the fridge has not been cooling for several days. So if the compressor got hot and blew up, it has cooled down since. I don't know .. . it just stopped cooling all of a sudden after working fine for about three weeks after I changed the defrost thermostat.
Seems like a couple of hours on. Certainly not just a few minutes. I'll start timing it.
That's what I feared. Is it worth buying a relay and installing it, just to find out I have to buy a new fridge anyway?
The fridge is pretty old.
How do I check if the compressor is getting 120 volts?
I'll check this out. Get back to you tomorrow. Thanks.
OK I'm back. I've checked voltage on what I think is the overload switch/relay.
It's a plastic thing about 1" cubed with several wires connected mounted on the left side of the compressor. I had to pull a moulded plastic cover off of it to uncover the connections. One wire on the top is the black power cable. That cable also goes over to the circulation fan (which works fine).
Then below the place power cord connection, there are two wires. The one on the right is yellow, the one on the left is green with a stripe . . . the green wire is connected to the chassis, so it's a ground.
I have made the following tests:
Connect positive multi-meter lead to terminal on switch with black power wire and I get voltage (don't know how to read the multimeter, but I can tell there is AC 100 or 200 somethings on the dial.
Connect the multimeter to the terminal on the left, and I get the same reading.
Connect the multimeter to the connection on the right, with the yellow wires, and I get NO VOLTAGE.
Circulation fan is running all the time.
What does this tell me?
How do I do that? What is continuity?
I need to put a battery in the multimeter to do this test, right?
My multimeter has all the scales together. If I follow the reading I talked about earlier, the resistance scale read about 10,000 ohms. But there was no battery in the device.
OK I will check for continuity and get back to you.
OK. I'm back. I am getting ready to check for continuity on the overload relay.
I have a terminal on the top of the relay with a black power wire connected.
Below that I have a terminal with a green striped on the left. The connection goes to the fridge chassis.
On the right I have the third terminal on the right with yellow wires attached.
Battery is installed in the multimeter.
Now, some questions:
Do I plug in the refrigerator?
Do I connect one multimeter lead to one of the terminals above and the other lead to the chassis, or do I connect the other lead to another terminal?
Lets call them green, black and yellow terminals on the relay, and the + and - leads on the multimeter.
Please ell me how to proceed so I can perform the test.
So do I plug the refrigerator in to power for this test?
Thanks. just a minute while a test the three terminals.
OK. So I finally got the multimeter to give readings.
Between some terminal connections I get a reading of 1900 ohms
Between others . . . no reading.
From each terminal to the other two, one reading is 1900 ohms and the other is no reading.
So is my 1900 ohm reading not logical?
Well maybe I'm reading the scale wrong. Maybe it's 19 ohms. I just moved the decimal because the words "k ohms" is above the scale.
OK. Now for parts . . . there are two parts that stick on to the 3 prongs on the compressor.
One of them fits on to two of the prongs.
The other fits on to the other prong.
Do I need both parts?
That doesn't look anything like what I am looking at here.
I got part numbers from SEARS.
These are more like it on Amazon:
Whirlpool Part Number 10097202: START-DEV
(this looks like one of the parts I took off)
the relay says
Whirlpool Part Number XXXXXXX: OVERLOAD
What about the cap that goes over the whole schebang? should I replace that too?
Shouldn't I go with replacement parts that look like the parts I am replacing?
I'll try to figure this out with Sears.
So tell me this. On a "fixya" site it says that I should be getting readings of zero ohms when I test between the three terminals on the compressor. Let's assume I have lucked into setting my multimeter right, and my reading of 19 ohms is correct. What does this mean . . . the compressor is good or bad?
Or is it so illogical that my testing procedure must be suspect?
Please help me think this through.
Is there any definitive way to tell if the compressor is bad?
OK. Thanks for sticking me for all my questions.
I'll but the $50 worth of parts and see if it fixes the problem.
Couldn't live with myself if I didn't TRYto save $1200 for a new fridge, right?
Thanks again I will give you a positive review.
I'm back. I have installed the relay and overload switch. Plugged in refrig.
Fans whirl just fine, but no compressor engagement after 20 min.
Just as I feared. Thanks for your help.