Appliance Repair Questions? Ask a Technician for Answers ASAP
give me one minute to look over your question and bring up your model diagrams. thanks
ok the oe error is over water level error. common fault.
and if you have checked the machine out well, which it seems that you have, and found the check valve faulty on the drain line, then yes, this could back the water up in the machine causing the error.
and there is almost always sub left over "mush" on the heater since it sits in the bottom of the sump where all the water and food will sit.
you can check the haeter with continuity and that will tell you if it is good or not.
and I must say, in my almost 13 years of repairing similar style dishwashers, I have only found 3 heaters faulty and needing to be replaced. usually they are good.
i would just clean it as best as you can and run another cycle with either hot start or heated dry after you fix the check valve and see if the water gets heated and then at the end of the cycle heats dry? if it does, then you know the heater is good.
now, as far as for the check valve being the source of the problem, i will tell you this. The check valve when working properly will only let water out of the drain and not back in. so if the check valve fails it will start to let more water accumulate in the sump and drain pump. Which could definitely cause the build up on the heater and sump lining.
great. do you have any idea of where I can get the check valve part in a hurry? the only place I know if is sears parts direct. they take forever and shipping is expensive.
replace the check valve, clean the heater and run an empty wash cycle with just white vinegar and no dishes, this will clean out the dishwasher, and then run a normal cycle and see how it works? that should work fine for you.
yes. you can order it from
they show it in stock and can ship it out to you tomorrow.
here is their link to the part
just click the image above to view the part info and order from them. should be two you in a day or two.
please get back to me here if you have any other questions or concerns and I will help you more.
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glad i could help.
Thank you for the positive rating. It is greatly appreciated. Please get back to me here if you have any other questions and I will help you more for no additional charge. Thanks again
Seems that the check valve was not the only problem. The dishwasher still stops during the initial part of the cycle with oE error code. Not sure what to do from here. Service from Samsung is $120 + parts. I'd prefer to fix myself if parts are inexpensive.
Let me elaborate on what occurs:
Turn on dishwasher, dishwasher drains, starts filling with water, then goes into oE and drains completely and stops with oE flashing. Unplugging for several minutes and trying again leads to same outcome. changing wash settings lead to same outcome.
I see that you directed me to a case sensor which is on the sidewall of the dishwasher. I have not checked into that yet but I will.
Is there a possibility that it might be the Sensor Assembly? DD94-01062A? Don't know what it's for but it sits inside the base of the dishwasher.
My reason for asking is on sears parts direct, they say "people who purchased the case sensor also purchased these two other components"
The other two components are:
I think what I'm getting at also is to avoid paying for shipping for each component, wouldn't it be better to just get all those components that are suspect? Then return those that were not needed.
I'm curious which dishwashers have the fewest problems. This Samsung is a headache with poor design issues. I had a kenmore (whirlpool?) purchased in 1995, heavily used by me, that lasted me until around 2011. No repairs ever.
I had to order parts from Sears Direct because they were not in stock until October at repairclinic. Parts coming Tuesday. Will I still have access to replying Tuesday/Wednesday?
I just got back to attempting the repair. Looking at the parts I ordered, there's the sensor that mounts to the side of the unit that you said to get originally,
the tub sensor that looks like a leakage detector as opposed to overflow.
and a new supply valve which I think I don't need but we'll see.
I'm going to pull the unit out of the cabinet in a few minutes (6:30pm ET). I'll get back to you.
I replaced the Case Sensor PART NUMBER: DD94-01006A. This was the one you said to replace. Running it now through a cycle. So far, no errors. Waiting to complete a whole cycle prior to opening up the champagne. I'll let you know if the cork gets popped.
All fixed. Only issue is the wires are really short and difficult to unplug and plug in. Anything for them to save a buck, I guess.
I compared the float action of the new and old sensors. inside the old sensor, the float moved slowly compared to the new sensor. There also was black gunky stuff inside it.
The extra parts are going back tomorrow.
Thanks again, Jon.