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yes I do see them on the heater box. is the one on the right one that resets it self or does it just go bad and have no continuity? or does it have to have an ohms test to see if its bad ? and could by passing this thermostat tell me its the culprit also right away ??
the cycling thermostats even when it is also a bias cycling thermostat they say all you have to do is check for continuity on the larger terminals when there are 4 terminals. If there is continuity on any type of cycling thermostat then that definitely means the cycling thermostat is good ?? and what is your opinion on the pre heating units for these cycling thermostats ?? Do they have anything whatsoever to do with intermittent heat and no heat at all with electric dryers ??
this dryer also has 2 cycling thermostats whats the difference from the function of one to the other ??
so brian in the same scenario in my first question if the heating element is coming on and off again which one of these cycling thermostats on this machine would be the culprit.? the one on the blower housing or the set of two on the heater box ? because they are both cyling thermostats right?
okay what you should do is first bypass one at a time. (the two large wires) and see if the dryer works correctly with whichever one you jumped out at that time. if it does that's your bad one. I would start with the red and white one on the side of the heater. does that make sense? do you think you can try that ? they are both cycling thermostats in a sense, the one on the side of the heater is more for shutting the heater off if it overheats because of the one on the blower.
that makes sense to me brian thanks for the help. I will definitely start at the heater box thermostats as you mentioned earlier and see if the top thermostat is the culprit thanks again for your help Darren