My name is XXXXX XXXXX X am an authorized Whirlpool service technician and I can help you today.
Have you checked the belt switch and the door switch?
Both the belt switch and door switch will do the same thing and cause this machine to not start.
And if this model s older or has had a lot of use, the motor internal switch or fuse could be overheating and causing the dryer to not start as well.
just get back to me here when you are ready to work on this machine and I will walk you through a few things.
I can't figure out how to remove the control panel to access the door switch. Thought I ruled that out since I get a different response (beeps,etc.) when I try it with the door open vs. when it's closed.
Dryer is about 8 yrs old and gets lots of use. How is motor switch tested?
How do I test he belt switch. I have a multi-meter and think I know how to use it.
cant test the motor switch. it is internal. and as far as for the door switch, yes, you are probably correct, if it clicks as you open and close it and the lights come on and go off then it is most likely good. I was just telling you what could cause the problem you are having.
give me one minute to look up your model to tell you how to remove the control. be right back.
ok got the diagrams up now. do you have the top panel off right now?
ok. good. can you do me a favor and pull up on the belt that goes around the drum? does it move at all? can you lift it up an inch or so? or no it stays tight to the drum?
I can pull it up
ok. how far does it come up? did it come completely off the drum?
or just come off about an inch or two?
I can lift it off a couple of inches and get 10 fingers underneath it (or more)
the belt switch to the left of the motor will need to have a lot of tension on it to keep the switch activated. if for any reason the slack on the belt switch subsides then the switch will deactivate. and it thinks the drum belt has snapped and will not run the machine. you will just get a click when trying to start it.
the fact that you can get so many fingers in between the belt and drum means the belt switch has become deactivated.
You will need to look under the dryer to see if the tension pulley has broken or come out of place. causing the extra slack on the belt and belt switch. and you will then know if you need a belt, or belt switch or pulley.
give me one minute and i will explain how to remove the control panel and front panel to get to the belt switch and pulley.
i am going to write a lot of info so give me a minute or two. and I will even see if i have a video i can download here for you to view. this way you can see how to do it.
It just feels like I'm taking in the slack from the pulley spring. There's still enough tension on the belt that it has not tripped the switch.
I've accessed the back and can play with the pulley and tension spring and see how the switch works (if the belt were to break)
if you can stick your fingers under the belt then there is definitely enough slack to casue the belt switch to become deactivated.. with the top panel off the dryer and the dryer unpluged you can pull the control panel towards the front of the machine from the top back of the panel to pry it off. with the top panel off, dont pull to far way since wires will be connected still, rest it on top of the drum for now. Then behind the control panel you will see several screws on the top front of the front panel you will need to remove those.
then open the door and remove the two screws just under the lint screen in the door. these screws are on the face of the door panel just under the opening. there are only two screws here you need to remove. and they are almost level with each other.
then remove the two or three screws under the lower front panel. this is the panel under the door panel. then with those screws off the lower front panel can come completely off the machine.
It took a lot of effort to get my fingers under the belt and I can see that the belt switch was not tripped (unless there is some other thing that could have happened). I'll move on to the control panel
with the lower front panel off you will see the two remaining screws holding the front door panel on. remove those and pull the front door panel away from the machine. now dont pull too far again. the door lock wires will need to be disconnected first. so please do so then set the front door panel aside.
No go on the control panel. I'll break it if I pull any harder.
there are clips on the back side of the panel. if you stand behind the machine and look towards the front of the dryer, you will see the clips just on the top back side of the control panel. stick a putty knife or thin screwdriver in between the clips of the control panel and plastic housing and pry up.
with the front panels off you will see the metal housing to the lint screen right under and in thr front of the drum. and there will be three screws that you need to remove on the lint screen. one on the top right side of the metal. near the wires hanging down from the moisture sensor. one just under that one about five inches down. and finally one on the left side of the metal close to the bottom round part of the lint screen.
remove those and you can pull down on the lint screen and pull the lint screen housing off. oh, first if you havent done so already, pull out the lint screen.
with the lint screen out of the way you will be able to clearly see into the dryer and under the drum to see if the pulley has too much slack or not. f you want you can even remove the four screws to the metal panel that is behind the front panel that holds the drum up. there is two screws on either side of the panel that you will need to remove to remove that panel.
with that panel off the drum will sink a bit. that is normal. and with that panel off you can unhook the belt by releasing the tension on the belt pulley and removing the belt.
now you will get the most clear look at the belt switch. take the pulley and move it back and forth. if you hear the click of the belt switch, which is located to the left of the motor on the floor of the cabinet, then the switch is most likely good. but please double check it with your meter set to continuity. and remove the wires to the switch, one on either side, and put the meter on continuity and put the lead from one side of the meter on one terminal of the belt switch and the other meter lead on the other terminal end of the switch. if you get a tone or you meter shows 0 ohs of resistance then the switch is good. if no tone or any other reading then 0 the switch is bad and needs to be replaced.
sorry for all this written instructions, but believe me, you want to check this.
if the belt switch is good then check the door switch on the front door panel the same way you checked the belt switch.
if the door switch shows no continuity then replace it. if it shows continuity then we can proceed to the last thermostat on the heater housing. the smallest one furthest away from you from the front of the machine.
again checking with continuity, if bad replace. if good, then you either have a bad control board or motor. and if the motor didnt ever smell like it was overheated, which smells like burning electrical smell, then the motor is usually good. and the board will need to be replaced.
those are the only parts on this machine that will cause it to not start.
are you still with me here? if you have any questions please ask away and I will explain in more detail.
i know this was a lot of info so please look it over and get back to me and let me know if you dont understand any of it?
Ok, I'l test the belt switch (I can get to it from behind the cabinet). Still can't get the control panel off. I've depressed the tabs and I pull on it so hard the unit could tip over...
ok. that is strange that it will not come off. dont pull to hard you dont want to crack it. if you can check the belt switch from the access panel behind the machine, which i dont know if you really can or not because you need to release the tension on the belt and access the wires in the front of the switch, then do so.
let me know what you find.
oh and let me ask one more question. before this problem started happening, did the dryer motor smell like it was overheating? or did the dryer just all of a sudden just stop and not work?
All of sudden stopped - no apparent overheating. Belt switch is ok and I just got the control panel off (there were a couple more screws holding it to the bracket bar). Now going back to getting the front panel off to access the door switch
i fbelt switch is good and door switch then check the last thermostat on the heater housing. if that to is good, then you will need to decide if you want to replace the control or the motor. it is litterlaly a crap shoot. there is no way to test the motor switch internally. and no difinitive way to check the control board.
which stinks but that is the way it is with this model. and soem others like it.
but I will say this. if the dryer just stopped one day all of a sudden and you hear the clicking from the control board up top when you try to run a load, it is usaull y the board that fails,
If you need parts info please get back to me here after you test the machine to let me know what you need and I will get parts info for you. this way you can order the parts and install them yourself and save money.
Ok, got the door switch out. How do I test continuity with 3 leads?
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go from one end to the farthest end. then press the switch in.
then go from inner terminal to one of the outers.
if you have continuity and a tone, if your meter has toned or audible continuity, then the switch is good.
if not, replace it
It is ok with the 2 outers and one of the inner 2. The other inner 2 doesn't. Does it matter?
Do I still need to check the heat element thermostats??
the outer leads are good when you push the door switch in?
if so then yes, the door switch is good. the inner dont really matter much.
Yes, the outers check fine.
no the heater element thermostats will not and should not cause the machine to not start. just not heat. dont need to check. i just wanted you to be thorough.
ok. then so far so good.
now just to be sure, on your model dryer the thermal fuse is the one on the blower housing. that is the one you checked previously, correct?
and even replaced, correct?
if so, then the only parts left are the control and the motor.
but if for some reason you changed the wrong part, then yes, replace the thermal fuse. but i do believe you changed the right one. you seem to know what you are talking about hear.
so if the right fuse was replaced then we just have the crap shot of a control board and the motor.
and again, i have seen the control board fail way more times then the motor. but you never know.
so please put evrrything back together and try another load, and this time when hitting the start button, if you hear the clicking noise from the control area, replace the board.
if not and click sounds like it is coming from the unit lower, replace the motor.
and I would advise getting parts from www.repairclinic.com. they offer a full refiund and except parts return on parts installed. so if for some reason you change the board and it doesnt work still, then return it and get your money back and order the motor.
When you say bad control board do you just the circuit board or the entire control panel? Which would you replace first given I get a click when the motor should start?
where does the click sound come from? the top of the machine or lower?
ok. then change the control board that is up top. but not the user interface. the interface is the board that has the buttons and controls on it. the board you need is the board up top but to the left of the machine. just above the drum.
it is part number(NNN) NNN-NNNN and again, order from www.repairclinic.com
this way you can return it if need be.
but if you are getting the click up top and out of no where the dryer just stopped then the control board is your best bet.
Just so you have it, the motor part number is XXXXX
please let me know how you do and or if you have more questions and I will help you more.
and please remember to rate my performance positively below this chat now with ok service or better rating. and again, if you have more questions after rating me positively now, please come back to me here and I will help you more for no additional charge.
thanks and please let me know how you do.
are you still there? do you have any other questions for me?
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What was that part number again (control board)?