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Hello, thanks for letting us answer your questions. We appreciate your business!Can you give me the model number off the label on the washer, please?
model is FWSB67RGS2
If you look around the perimeter of the cabinet inside the washer, do you see any stains/splatter marks sprayed on the metal about 10" up from the bottom ?
no, seems fairly clean and dry
If you look up on the top of the transmission where the shaft of the transmission enters the bottom of the tub, do you see any stains or grease?
no, clean and dry
Just to clarify, motor pulley spins, but belt and drum pulley do not move.
OK, it can look clean but I have seen this problem many times. If you have replaced the belt and have checked the idler pulley, you have one of two possible problems. 1. You have a piece of clothing stuck between the inner and outer tub causing the inner tub to bind up.2. The main water seal has failed and the upper spin bearing is binding up causing the inner tub not to turn easily.The only clutching action your washer has is created by the slipping of the belt. The means that the transmission has to be able to turn very freely or the belt will just burn up on the motor.
Sounds about right. I do hear some water in the drum even when the pump has finished. There is no water visible though. How do I remove the agitator and inner drum to check?
Also, on this model, in spin mode, the one way clutch locks the bottom pulley to the transmission, and the entire transmission rotates...
You need to take the outer tub cover off by popping the plastics clips around the top and look down inbetween the two tubs .If you don't see anything, you will have to remove the bolts holding the inner tub clamp and pull the inner tub out to check if there is something under the inner tub. This is not any easy job. It takes me at least an hour to get the tub out as it is usually corroded and does not come out without a fight.
How to you get to the inner tub bolts?
if you can see the image, you need to remove parts #14 and 15 and the the tub just slides up off the shaft.IF, and thats a big IF you have no corrosion
OK, so I pull the cap at the top of the agitator out, then remove the screw to remove the agitator? Looks like the bolts are under the agitator...
Those parts are just under the agitator when you remove it.
Removing the bolts #13 won't allow the drum to come out?
not 13 bolts #14
they go thru the shaft into the block #15
Part number 16 looks like the transmission, which is below the outer drum, is this correct?
there is a flat spot on the shaft that the block rests against, hold the tub mountremove the 2 bolts and the block and the tub slides up and out
All right, I'll get back to you in a bit when I get it apart.
Bye for now
ok check back if you get it apart, hopefully you find a sock or something inside.
OK, took out drum. It appears to have water trapped in side the inner drum at the top rim. Can't seem to get it out. Does is normally fling out or is it not supposed to be in there?
Tried to remove two bolts and block, but bolt heads snapped off. I will try using a hammer and drift to push out bolts and block. I am assuming that the only threads are in the block, and the holes in the hub are through holes.
Tried a cycle with the drum completely out, hub still in place. Machine agitates and drains fine. However, when the drum was in place, it would turn maybe an eighth turn every few seconds, it did not do that with the drum removed. No obstructions found between drums.
I can move the hub by hand with moderate effort. On one spin cycle it spun, on the 2nd cycle it just sat there with the motor running but the belt and transmission were stationary.
The one way clutch seems to work ok on the bottom pulley, so do you think it is the top bearing, then, that is making it too hard to turn? And is the top bearing inside the transmission, or external to it? It seems to me since the entire transmission spins around, there must be a bearing between the fixed outer drum and the outer portion of the transmission or fixed shaft tube. It does sort of squeak when I start to turn the hub.
Hopefully I can drive out the bolts and stop plate. I figure i might fab up a puller to pull on the hub and push on the top of the spline shaft.
Is this OK or too much stress on shaft?
Lastly, how do I replace the bearing and seal?
I work on cars, machine stuff, etc, so a moderate challenge is fine. Rather not buy a new machine right now!
OK, did a little more research. I think it might be the aptly named spin bearing (actually a bushing) that I need, part (NNN) NNN-NNNN/strong>. Since the lower pulley is attempting to spin the entire transmission and drum assembly, I don't see any of the internal transmission bearings coming into play in spin mode, except for the locking bearing, which seems to be working fine.
So i'm guessing that either the spin bearing/fixed shaft are corroded and tight, or else something is wrapped tightly around the seal boot causing it to bind.
Please advise on best method to remove hub, and if you concur with my thoughts about the spin bearing being the culprit.
That was the next problem you would need to address if you found nothing in the outer tub.
The water you hear is part of the balance ring as that is normal. You must have removed the bolts securing the tub to the mount if you say you got the tub out. As I said before if you have corrosion, it makes it very difficult to remove. If you broke the bolts off, you may be able to drive the block out its resting spot with a push and then clean off the shaft and soak the mount with penetrating fluid and then use a hammer and punch to try to get it turning on the shaft. Once you get the block off, it just slides up off the shaft.