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Jon, Appliance Technician
Category: Appliance
Satisfied Customers: 3627
Experience:  Appliance Service Technician with 10+ years experience.
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I have the Viking VDSC365-6BSS model (duel fuel- oven is electric)

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I have the Viking VDSC365-6BSS model (duel fuel- oven is electric) and I am forever sorry I bought it. Viking should be ashamed of this product. Currently, the oven will not work (neither the broil nor bake). The convection fan works and the oven light works. Also the indicator lights work when I turn the dial to bake or broil. I had a relay replaced in 2009 by a viking approved technician. Help!

tadowhere :

Hello my name is XXXXX XXXXX going to help you out today.

tadowhere :

I see you had the relay replaced a few years back. This is somewhat of an alarm in my head having worked on this model before and knowing that pre heat board will go bad and usually the relay is the cause. I would check the board it's located on the top right under the drip pan. Chances are the relay may be bad again along w/ pre heat board. If you have a multi-meter you can test both of these. (sometimes you can visually tell the relay is bad as it will swell up)


I do not see anything under the drip pan. Can you be more specific? Thanks

tadowhere :

I'm having trouble pulling the service manual off my cpu I will opt out as I don't want to go off memory in assisting you. Another expert should be able to help. If I get manual up I will come back into question.


OK- thanks


My name is XXXXX XXXXX I am an authorized Viking service technician and I can try to help you today.

The relay that you most likely had replaced is the bake and broil oven relay in the bottom front of the machine. Behind the lower kick plate under the door is the relay I would like for you to check. You will need to remove the two phillps head screws on either inside of the lower kick plate panel. Again, there is one screw on the left and one on the right side, on thinner side of the top of the lower panel. remove each one of those screws and the lower kick plate panel will fold down. Giving you access to the bake and broil relay.

It is here that this oven relay will normally fail. But if you don't have a multimeter to check the relay with it will be very hard for you to visually tell if the relay has gone bad. Unless there is some physical damage like a burnt mark or wire damaged on it, you will not be able to see if the relay has been damaged.

So here is what you can do, especially if this has happened once before. I suggest replacing the relay with a new one. The relay is part number PM010129 and should cost about $60. It will be absolutely worth it for you to just buy the relay and replace it yourself and save hundreds of dollars instead of having the service company come back to do the same thing for you. And if you were thinking about replacing the machine, if the relay is bad and you replace it, this could save you more then $5000 for a new range.

Below is a link to the exploded view diagram of the exterior of your machine. Just copy and paste it to your web browser to open and view the diagram. Diagram part number 12 is the lower access panel you will need to remove to access the relay.

You can purchase the part at they will send it out to you. Just go to the above website and type in the part number in the part search box and the part will come up for you. If it doesn't please call them and they will do the research for you and send the part out to you just as quickly. Their number is XXXXX

When you have the relay turn off the power to the machine by flipping off the breaker to the machine. Then remove the lower kick plate and access the relay. Then take a picture of the placement of the wires on the relay or write them down for the future. Then remove the wires from the old relay and remove the relay. Then replace with the new one. Now just put the wires back on the new relay in the same place they were on the old one. If the new relay has different terminal marking or different terminals in general, which can happen from time to time as viking makes updates to the relays, the relay will have a chart diagram for how you should rewire the new relay. Then power the machine back on and check to see if the oven works.

Hopefully it will work for you as it does about 75% of the time. If it doesn't then you can start to think about either calling for service or if you would like, replace the other components like the main board or the heating elements.

Please remember to rate my performance positively below with ok service or better rating if you feel that I have helped to answer your question, If you feel that I have not helped you enough yet please don't rate negatively just come back to me here and I will help you more. And if you have more questions about this after positively rating me please come back to me here again at any time and I will help you more for no additional charge.

Please get back to me here and tell me how you did with this machine.

Thank you.
Customer: replied 3 years ago.

Thanks. How much do I have to spend on a multimeter? Once I purchase it, how do I test the relay?

You can go to your local hardware store or home depot for the meter. You should get a decent digital one that reads both ac voltage and measures and checks continuity. Should be about $30-$80.

To check the relay you will first need to be very careful. Only set meter to ac voltage and remove the lower access panel under the door. Then once you see the relay on the right you will have to set the oven to a bake cycle and check the black and red wires going to the relay. If here are no black and red wires check the wires on the far right of the relay.

With the oven in a bake cycle you should have 120 volts to the relay. If you don't have voltage to the relay you need to replace the oven thermostat. If you have voltage and still not working then replace the relay.

If you run into any troubles or need more help or simply have more questions please feel free to get back to me here at any time and I will help you more. And after you rate my performance positively below this chat now with ok service or better rating, if you have more questions at a later time, again please get back to me here and I will help you more for no additional charge.

Thank you and please let me know how you do.
Customer: replied 3 years ago.

There are 6 wires attached to the relay. 4 in the front and 2 in the back. Going from left to right the wires in the front are Red/black stripe, Gray, Red, Orange. The wires in the back are Yellow/Red stripe and White. Some of the wires close to the relay seem to have burnt marks on them. Which wires do I attach the multi-meter to? (the black and red wires from the multi-meter go to what wires on the relay?). Thanks.

Hello again.

Sorry for the delay. I has been a very busy day and I am only getting a chance to log onto the web site now.

I know the coloring to the wires can be very confusing. Especially when there are multiple colors on one wire. Which we call a tracer. Like if a wire is solid red but then has black line, we call that wire the red wire with a black tracer. Just so you know for the future.

Before we get to testing the wires for voltage, you had mentioned that some of the wires looked like they had burnt, is that correct?

If so, then please lets first focus on those wires. Are the burnt wires the wires that go to the relay? Or do they go somewhere else?

And if they are burnt that could be the whole cause for the failure. Remember a few responses ago I said to remove the panel and look to see if the wires were burnt or damaged in any way? This is why I tell you to look first. You may not have needed to buy a meter at all. But lets not get ahead of ourselves here.

With power off to the machine you will need to fix the wires first. so if the terminal ends are the only spot that is burned on the wire then just cut and splice back 1/4 inch from where the burn mark stops on the wire and fit on a new female connector. If you don't have one or a few, get them at the same place you got the meter. They should be pennies.

Then with the wires repaired and connected back to where ever they go, start the machine and tell if that works for you. If it does, then please consider yourself very lucky. If not, please get back to me here again and tell me that it didn't work and I will tell you how to check the relay.

I have a feeling the burnt wires are going to fix your machine. It usually happens that way. Unless of course the burnt wires were the wires that go to the relay and they have burned the relay as well. In that case repair the wires and then replace the relay.

Please get back to me here and let me know how you did and or if you have any other questions. And please remember to rate my performance positively below this chat now with ok service or better rating so that I may get credit from the web site for helping you.

Thanks again.
Jon, Appliance Technician
Category: Appliance
Satisfied Customers: 3627
Experience: Appliance Service Technician with 10+ years experience.
Jon and 5 other Appliance Specialists are ready to help you
Thank you for the positive rating and very generous bonus as well. It is greatly appreciated.

Please get back to me here if you have any other questions or concerns with this machine and I will help you more for no additional charge.

Thanks again.
Customer: replied 3 years ago.

I replaced the 4 female connectors in the front of the relay. I cut back the wires about 2-3 inches and the wires were still a grayish color (not copper). I sanded the wires to remove the grayish color before I put the connectors on. I tried the oven and it still does not work. Also the oven selector light did not go on (i did not have that problem before. The oven pre-heat light worked (that was not a problem before). Help!

Ok. So if you are sure that you cut back enough of the damaged wires going to the relay and yet still no bake or broil then we know for sure the relay is bad.

No good about the selector light though.

Here is what I would like for you to do. First power off the machine. then remove the two screws on either side of the front of the control panel. There will be two screws on either side of the knobs on the front of the control panel. remove both sets of two screws. Then remove all knobs. Then remove all the lower screws behind each knob. You can now pull the control panel forward to access the switches behind it. But please dont pull to far because the light and door switch wires will still be connected behind it. Just let it rest there.

Now please take a look not only at the wires going to the selector switch but the wires going to all the switches back behind the control. Since we had a few burnt wires at the relay, I am wondering if there are any other wires damaged from the relay shorting out?

So please take a look and see what you find. If you find any damaged wires repair them in the same way as you did the relay wires. If you find everything to be ok then you will need to replace the selector switch as well as the relay below. And since they are in the same circuit they most likely shorted out when the other shorted out.

The check I would like for you to perform will require a meter that measures ac voltage. So if you have one do this. With power off again to the machine remove the screws to the back inside of the oven bake element. Then pull the element out into the oven cavity exposing the wires that connect the oven bake element. Then power the machine back on after making sure that the wires to the element are not touching any other metal surface or each other and set your meter to ac voltage. Then set the oven to a bake cycle and put the leads to your meter on each wire going to the bake element. You should see a reading of the power going to the bake element and it should be 220 volts. If you have full 220 volts to the bake element but yet it still doesnt heat or come on then you will need to replace the element.

But going according to the problems you say you are having and the fact that both the bake and broil failed at the same time, you will most likely not find voltage to the bake element. So if there is no voltage to the bake element the last check you will need to do is remove the range from the counter and pull it out from the wall to access the back of the range.

In the back of the range, behind the main access panel with be a high limit cut out thermostat. This will be a thermostat that looks like a round black switch with two wires running to it. Again with power off to the switch you will need to remove the wires to the tstat and take a reading of the thermostat. If your meter has a continuity reading set it to that and put each lead of the meter to each side of thermostat without the wires on it. If you have continuity the meter will beep or show 0 ohms. Again, that is a good switch. If you see any reading other then 0 and or the meter doesnt beep then the tstat is bad and will need to be replaced. And if you dont have meter to do these tests with then remove the wires going to the tstat in back and fit them together. This will jump out the tstat. just fit the metal ends together and tape it with black electrical tape to secure. Now power the range back on again and set to a bake cycle and try it out again.

If it finally works then great, we know that you have a bad relay and high limit thermostat. And both parts wil need to be replaced. If it still doesnt work then you will need to replace the main board and oven bake relay in front.

Please run those test and get back to me here and tell me what you have found. And please get back to me here if you have any other questions and I will help you more.

You should have
Customer: replied 3 years ago.

When I took off the control panel, the gray wire on the selector had burned so badly it disconnected from the female connector. I reattached it and the both the bake and broil elements are now working. The only problem is the oven selector indicator light still is not working. So it looks like the major problem is fixed. Any advice on the oven selector light?

Ok. Great. glad we could find the problem for the bake and broil not working.

As far as for the light not working, if the selector switch is now repaired and the oven works and just not the light, replace the indicator light. That is the small switch right behind the red light.

Sometimes the bulb in the light just goes out. And with all the wires that have shorted out here I would not be surprised if that cause the light switch to burn out.

That is very easy fix. just get the indicator light and remove the control panel like you have done now and push the indicator light in and slide out of the clips. Then replace with new one and just swap the wires.

It is just that easy.

The indicator light is part number PE050024. should cost about $10. can be ordered at the same places above. Again, or or at your local appliance parts store.

Please get back to me here if you have any other questions and I will help you more for no additional charge.

And it looks like you have gotten off very well and quite cheap in the long run. Fixing this machine yourself, with my help, you should be very proud. Not many people can say that they fixed it like you have.
Thank you for being patient as we checked this machine and went through the diagnostic steps. I know that you have had problems with this machine before and are not very happy with the Viking brand in general. With that being said, if this problem happens again I would look to see why the wires are continually shorting out. There maybe the possibility that it was not wired or hooked up correctly. But we will cross that bridge if and when we come to it.

Thanks again, and I am glad you fixed this machine. Please feel free to get back to me here again if you have any questions or concerns and I will continue helping you for no additional charge. And if you feel that I have done an exceptional job here helping you please feel free to leave a bonus and positive feedback for my profile. That would be greatly appreciated. Thank you again.