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Ok thanks, XXXXX XXXXX the rear right element is not working correct? All others are
no it is the front right element - a dual burner. I think the warmer (back rear) doesn't work either.
Ok one sec
ok, we just tested- the warmer is ok.
Just the dual burner, the one that overheated, is broken
Ok if just that one is not working the element is bad. There is no external sensor for that element and you likely burned out the internal temp sensor or the element on the burner. You need to replace the burner
what is the part number for that? Also how do you separate the cooktop from the box holding the innards?
What are the last 3 letters after the 6
You need to remove the cooktop from the counter top and remove the couple screws then the glass top is just stuck onto the metal frame and the frame will separate off from the glass
ok one sec
What do the couple screws look like and how many are there? It looks like three on each side? is that correct?
Yes and maybe one in the center
74008228 part number
All I ask is that you rate my assistance before leaving thanks!
None visable in center
ok some models do not have it as there was a series change
can you wait until we have it open?
It is easiest if you take the whole unit out. Sometimes you can leave it in as the metal frame is what keeps it from dropping through.
I have to get going really soon. I got a couple minutes
we have the who unit out. is there anything tricky about replacing the burner unit?
No nothing special at all the glass is basically just stuck onto the metal frame so once you have the glass separated from the metal frame you will see the burner placement and mounts. Just change out the burner and swap the wires over to the correct terminals. That's it
Get a putty knife to get the sticky glue to separate the glass
my son wants to know if there is a resistance test we can do to test this burner?
Also, can we continue to use the rest of the stove with this burner pulled out?
I think you are earning an excellent if you can answer these too.
You can go from Tan to Red or Yellow to Red.....if it is open its junk.
They are the colored wires going to that burner
what do you mean by "open"?
No continuity or infinite ohms
running to get the tester.
he is just starting 2nd year engineering.
I see, I wish I had moret time, but I have to get going
it has about .03 ohms resistance for both
If you have power connected to it....carefully turn the burner on and go from the Red wire on the burner connection to the Tan Wire. Test to see if you have 240 volts to it. If you do not you have a bad right front control switch
Make that test and get back to me I will check back in just a bit. I have to leave, but I will check back
ok. thanks for all the help! will let you know later
I flipped the breaker to the stove top (turning it back on) and tested to make sure the stove had power by turning on the warmer burner. It turned on. But when testing the dead burners terminals there was no voltage accross the red and tan leads. I then tested my voltage reader by sticking its leads in a wall outlet, it read 118 volts.
are you back yet?
it is 120 at the outlet he tested his meter at. The stove top has 240. Since no electricity registered on the input lines (red & tan, yellow & tan), does it mean that something else is broken as well?
ok - good to know. we will order a new one.
Also, in the element we accidentally crumbled some of the stuff the heating coils are on. do we need to get a new element now?
I am having difficulty finding the part number for the switch. The wiring diagram refers to it as "custom electronic" right front control. Any ideas?