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Can you post a picture .... there really isn't a manual for the conversion, the contacts are usually labeled (ie, bake broil convection line etc) on the board and worst case scenario you can follow them down, but if you have a picture I might have done one before and be able to just tell you
This is a picture of the new part .. the wire connections are in the dark area to the right of the transformer with one connection below left of the dark area ... on the old part the yellow is for BAKE P6, the blue is for the BROIL P5. red says L1 P3, and the white is N P4 . Hope this is of some help.
One last thing, the post under the dark area says N AC
The last thing is on the new part.
I assume yellow would go in the area with the yellow dot, white would go below the dark are ... leaving red and blue to go to the lilac dot are ... but which one goes where?
Any luck figuring the wiring connections?
Any hope of resolving this?
yellow goes by the yellow dot, Red goes to the left of the purple dot, purple dot goes to blue for broil, and white is neutral it goes to the N ac connection
Sorry I'm just now getting back to you, I couldn't pull the chat up last night. And that being said, if your bake and broil are mixed up swap them, but yellow to yellow SHOULD Be right, the red will share between the 2 relays so putting it on the purple is the usual location for it, and you won't blow ANYTHING hooking it up like this. The only possible incorrect connection would be if the bake and broil are reversed. Usually the purple dot would be blue, since it's different and not labeled bake and broil could be different on it. Yellow is almost always bake though so this method should be exactly right
It is set up like you said but the bake is not working but the broil is working. The burners are working fine. Could this be because some wires are in the wrong spot or do I need to replace the bake element now?
I just noticed the broil gets a code F4 after being on for a couple of minutes.
Should I swap the blue and red?
Well before you panic, kill power, and either remove or access the wiring to the bake element. Unplug at least one wire .... test resistance through the element. If you have 20-50 ohms it's good, open or shorted and it's bad. If you notice on the bake relay, there are 3 wires you could put it on. The 2 side by side, try the other. sometimes they put the dot by the wrong one. But yes check your element first. And if you try a different terminal don't try the one over by itself (where the red goes on the broil relay) and if all else fails (I've never had to do this but it could need it) run a jumper from the red to the broil relay to the same spot on the bake relay. The board might not be internally jumping them. Most all Ge boards do, but I have had some include a jumper for this purpose. Maybe yours left the jumper out.
I do not have a meter tester. But you say not to swap the blue and red even though they are in the purple area. For a jumper wire, will I need to get the same gauge wire from the store.
The bake came on very low temperature then got the the F4 code after a couple of minutes. There are two posts that look like they are for the jumper that you described (one in the yellow and one in the purple). Should I put the jumper wire on the 2 posts or should I solder the wires together as you said? ... Either way I will have to wait until tomorrow afternoon so I can get the right gauge type wire for the jumper.
What does the F4 code mean? So I am not wondering for all times.
Shorted oven temperature sensor circuit, could be melted wire, could be a bad sensor, could be the sensor not plugged into the board. Check any/all of the above if the problem continues
I installed the jumper to the 2 open posts the bake and broil come on but last only 2-3 minutes before I receive a F4 code and beeping until I turn off the oven. I checked the wires they all seem OK and well connected. Where is the temperature sensor circuit located (hopefully not on the new control panel)? Thanks for all your help.
I found the oven temperature sensor in the oven and will trace it back to its circuit.
Thanks again and I will close out the ticket.