Appliance Repair Questions? Ask a Technician for Answers ASAP
Hello..It is my Pleasure To Be Working With You Today...Sorry you are having this problem..First lets check the water pressure at the hinge area of the freezer door..Remove the front kick plate..You will see where the waterline goes into the bottom hinge of the door..Follow it back under the front grill..You will see the plastic connector..Press in on the white plastic disc where the waterline goes into the connector..At the same time pull the waterline out..You now have the door waterline disconnected..Close the freezer door..Get a small pan etc.Put the waterline opposite the door waterline into the pan..Press the dispenser for water option..If you get a good stream of water..Then this means the doors waterline is blocked..Post back with your results..Thanks Bob
I was off on Friday and Saturday (and Sunday). Did what you instructed this morning -- disconnected the water line from the door -- put a container under the hose coming from the filter (the right side of the line), pressed the water lever -- got a teaspoon spurt and then drips from the hose. I released the water lever, then pressed, again -- got a teaspoon spurt and then drips. I released the water lever.
When pressing the water lever, I can hear a solenoid? valve? open and there's a slight hum while it stays open, then silence when I release the water lever. What's next?
I see the coil of plastic pipe behind a crisper drawer. It doesn't feel frozen. Fridge temp is set to 37 degrees.
I "warmed it with my hands" and ran the water -- water speed was stronger than last Thursday when I started, though don't know if my "warming it with my hands" had anything to do with today's improvement. It now trickles at a rate of about 1/2 cup of water per minute. After running the water for about 10 minutes, it felt tepid -- I'm thinking the tepid water would "thaw" any frozen water in the line. I continued to run the water for 20 minutes -- it never improved on the 1/2 cup of water per minute rate.
I removed the filter and found the needle valve actuator -- pressed it with a key -- water gushed strong.
Warmed the coil. No improvement.
Pulled the unit out from the wall, removed the hose where it connects to the valve (the pipe that leads down from the filter) -- discovered only a trickle from the filter. Confirmed strong pressure is heading into the filter.
Ordered a GE WR02X11705 Cap Filter Bypass.
Waited for it to arrive.
It arrived yesterday. Installed it this morning -- now experiencing full water flow.
Blockage appears to be in the filter.
Changing these stinkers *every 30 days* (the length of time the filter appears to work before slowing and blocking the water flow) is expensive, but if the filters are actually plugging *because they're catching particles*, then I suppose they're doing their job. I'll order some 2-packs from cheaper sources than Home Depot and continue to monitor.
Thanks for getting me started on the diagnostics -- probably saved me $100 to do myself, though my 2 hours wasn't free, either.