Hello, Thank you for using this service, I will be helping you with your problem today
Good evening, Okay the frost of course is a defrost issue but it could also be a bad main control board. as far as the light goes you need to check the light switch.do you have a volt meter ? if you click this link it shows you how to check that . http://www.repairclinic.com/PartDetail/Light-Switch/WR23X10179/879792?modelNumber=PSC25SGSCSS
I replaced the main control board about 2years ago. what is that image? I do have a volt meter.
Did you receive the situation I described about the switch? If you think that the switch still needs to be tested, do I take the switch out by just pulling on it?
When I pressed the door switch, I can hear something was running, and the inside lights were out, but the fan close to the bottom was not running. When the door switch was not pressed, the lights on the top were on, not the light beside the fan. Does this situation mean that the door switch is working? I don't know what things are supposed to run when the door switch is pressed or not pressed.
Thanks for the reply. It's late, i will let it defrost by itself tonight. Is there a way to get back to you tomorrow morning to ask you to walk me through how to check things using a meter?
Hi, now the ice all melted, i powered the fridge on. I saw that the condensor fan is running. When I pressed the door switch, the evaporator fan was not running, and the light besides it were not on, were they supposed to be on at this situation? I am just waiting to see if the fridge will cool down.
I mistook the customcool fan as the evaporator fan. The evaporator fan IS working.
I noticed that the ice on the front evaporator coil melted, but the evaporator coils in the back are still covered with ice/frost.
Where can I find the defrost thermostat? what color is the wire for the thermostat?
where does the other end of the defrost thermostat wire run into? Into the backwall of the fridge?
Do you mean that I have to literarally cut the wire?
What am I supposed to see on the meter when there is continuity? 0 reading?
How to test the continuity of the defrost heater?
excuse me for all these questions, not very handy in this things.
You are great.
I have a meeting now, lasting several hours. I will try to follow your instructions and reply the results later.
I think that the thermostat is attached to the back of evaporator coil, I can't see how it is attached, so I didn't use any force to pull on the wire. Luck for me, the thermostat wires are connected to the wire from the back of the fridge using wire nuts, so I disconnected the wires at the nuts, use my meter tested that way, but either no short sound, or some number jump up and down, I guess that the thermostat is bad? Since I could not take the thermostat out and put in the cold water to test it according to the video. Maybe I should test it again when the evaporator coid iced up again?
Anyhow, I would like to order a new thermostat just in case. What is the part number? I assume that I can just disconnect the broken thermostat and leave it there, and connect the new one and leave it on the top of the evaporator coil?
All the ice had already been melted when I tested the themostat. So I guess I need to test it again when the evaporator coil is iced up again.
To change the new one, I assume that I can just disconnect the broken thermostat and leave it there since it's somehow tied in the back of the coil, and connect the new one and leave it on the top of the evaporator coil?