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Tom Goellner
Tom Goellner, Home Appliance Technician
Category: Appliance
Satisfied Customers: 1353
Experience:  32 yrs. experience servicing major appliances and HVAC equipment.
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I was reading your repair advice for a similar fridge. My

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I was reading your repair advice for a similar fridge. My fridge stopped cooling. Condenser fan is on, freezer coil fan also on, but no cooling. Did the "comp" test, and no 120 ac voltage, so replaced main board. Then I read your J15 harness comment, and am not sure how to test that, as my multimeter pins are too big for the holes in the harness. I put them in the back of the harness, and get one volt or so. The brown wire to the inverter has 120 ac. I assume my inverter is bad, but want to be sure.
Submitted: 11 months ago.
Category: Appliance
Expert:  Barry G. replied 11 months ago.
Hello my name is XXXXX XXXXX you for choosing our service. Kelly is out this weekend.

Trace your J-15 wire to the inverter and with both ends connected measure the dc voltage at the inverter end. What do you get there? I know you measured at the board but this is to also check the wire.

Thanks,
Barry
Customer: replied 11 months ago.

What do you mean by "with both ends connected"?

Customer: replied 11 months ago.

Also, every time I reply to you I am directed to a page that says they are having problems with the site.

Expert:  Barry G. replied 11 months ago.
Both ends of the J15 wire. One at the board and one at the inverter. Leave them connected and measure at the inverter.

Yes I am getting the same thing on my end. I have to post 2 or 3 times. I have reported it to the engineers.

Thanks,
Barry
Customer: replied 11 months ago.

So where do I put the leads? I know at the inverter end, but where, exactly, do I place each lead to measure the voltage? This may sound stupid, but I don't know if I am making contact with the actual wire.

Customer: replied 11 months ago.

This is what I did: I inserted my red lead into each pin at the harness of the J15 on the board, with the harness attached, and got a little less than 1 volt DC, with the multimeter set at 20. I then tested the other end, the end that goes into the inverter, by disconnecting the harness there, and came up with the same, less than 1 volt DC reading on each.

Expert:  Gina-Mod replied 11 months ago.
Hello
,

I’m Gina, and I’m moderator for this topic. It seems the professional has left this conversation. This happens occasionally, and it's usually because the professional thinks that someone else might be a better match for your question. I've been working hard to find a new professional to assist you right away, but sometimes finding the right professional can take a little longer than expected.

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Customer: replied 11 months ago.

I never received an answer. The website was having trouble yesterday. I suspect he lost patience with me.

Customer: replied 11 months ago.

Will someone else be contacting me to help?

Expert:  Gina-Mod replied 11 months ago.

Hello,

Thank you, XXXXX XXXXX continue to look for a professional to assist you. Please let me know if I can be of any further assistance while you wait.

Best,

Gina-Moderator

Expert:  Bryan replied 11 months ago.

Hello, Thank you for using this service, I will be helping you with your problem today

Good afternoon, can you remove the plug on the compressor and test power at the connector shown here? graphic

Customer: replied 11 months ago.

I know that goes to the pins on the condenser, but that's one I haven't been able to get to. To the left of the condenser there is a gray cover that I am not sure how to remove. Just to the left of the cover is the inverter, butted right up against it.


 


Just some additional information on what I've done so far. The J15, with the wires removed, measures 7.6 vdc between the red and the white, if that's how I am supposed to measure it. All wires connected, the J15 puts out 5 vdc. Disconnected I read it is supposed to be higher than that.


 


Also testing between J8 and J7, pin 9, I get no AC out to the condenser. Nor do I get any AC out of J9 to J7, pin 9.

Expert:  Bryan replied 11 months ago.
are you talking about number 902 on this diagram ?
Customer: replied 11 months ago.

Yes. Not sure how to remove that to get to the plug.

Expert:  Bryan replied 11 months ago.
sorry I had to clean my computer yesterday I was having issues,let me know when your back on, thanks, Bryan
Customer: replied 11 months ago.

I'm off and on myself. On now.

Expert:  Tom Goellner replied 11 months ago.
Just to clarify - you ARE getting 120 volts AC on the orange to black wire at the inverter ? If you do go to the mother board at the J15 connector and measure the DC voltage from the red to white wire , if you get nothing , remove the connector and measure across the two pins . Do you now get DC volts ? If you do it means the inverter is drawing down the volts - the inverter is bad. You may have to use paper clips and fashion them to make connections to your meter leads to be sure you are making a good contact on these small connections, or use alligator clip wires and attach the paper clips to the alligator clip wires and then alligator clip them to the meter leads , whatever works. i keep a set of meter leads that have been ground to a point just for this purpose.
Customer: replied 11 months ago.

It looks like my last question didn't take. I have brown and orange wires that terminate at a plastic connecter, where the orange continues to another orange wire, and the brown connects to a black wire that goes to the inverter. I do get 117 VAC from the brown wire. 7.6 VDC with red and white J15 disconnected, and 5VDC with the connector plugged in.

Expert:  Tom Goellner replied 11 months ago.
All right - the next step is to check the compressor windings . There are three pins on the compressor, remove the wiring to the compressor and with an ohm meter set to a low scale check from pin to pin ( 3 readings ) these ohm values should be the same value. Post back with the results of this.
Customer: replied 11 months ago.

I think I said before, that I am having a hard time getting to those pins. There is a gray cover that I don't know how to remove. The inverter is in the way.

Expert:  Tom Goellner replied 11 months ago.
The inverter is held down by screws to the base if you need to move it , but the cover over the compressor terminals just snaps in, so use your fingers or a small screwdiver to squeeze the sides to get it off
Customer: replied 11 months ago.

There was a single screw facing forward at the base of the inverter behind some foam glued over it. Wish my hands were smaller... I get 6.8 ohms across each combo of pins.

Customer: replied 11 months ago.

Just to throw it out there, I disconnected my ice maker, and removed it to look for the thermistor. I don't think that would cause any problems, but thought I'd mention it in case there is an electrical loop that needs the icemaker wiring hooked up.

Expert:  Tom Goellner replied 11 months ago.
The icemaker would have no effect on the compressor running. From your readings the compressor windings are good and you have the correct AC and dc voltage to the inverter . The inverter converts single phase 120 volts to 230 volt 3 phase to make the compressor run and it is not doing that . Replace the inverter which is part number - WR55X10504 and the cheapest source I found for this part is from www.pcappliancerepair.com for $ 465.00
Expert:  Tom Goellner replied 11 months ago.
If you have no further questiions please rate my answers - it's how I get paid.
Customer: replied 11 months ago.

Hi Tom. I just got back from vacationing, and am back to work. I will replace the inverter next week. If that is the problem, and the fridge works, I will rate you with excellent service. i just don't want to close things up when I still have a broken fridge. Thanks.

Expert:  Tom Goellner replied 11 months ago.
OK - wondering what happened to you
Customer: replied 11 months ago.

Tom, I ordered the inverter and am waiting for it. The day it arrives I will plug it in and rate your service. Thanks.

Expert:  Tom Goellner replied 11 months ago.
If there is no correspondence for a while these questions will TIME OUT , but since you have re established we're good to go ( for awhile )
Customer: replied 11 months ago.

Hi Tom. The inverter arrived today, but does not look like the original. The connector appear to be the same, but instead of a gray plastic housing, it's a metal housing with a smaller gray plastic housing inside. Should I just go ahead and connect it? Thanks.

Customer: replied 11 months ago.

A followup... since all three connectors looked the same, for the most part, and all fit, I went ahead and wired it up. One immediate difference I noted was that I can feel the condenser vibrating a bit. Didn't do that before. Will keep you posted. It's really hot here today, so will let you know if I detect cooling in the fridge. Hope this does it!

Customer: replied 11 months ago.

After an hour or so, the grid in the top part of the freezer is clearly cold. The fridge though, is not yet cooling. The condenser is very hot to the touch.

Customer: replied 11 months ago.

I read another thread that said if the condenser was too hot to touch, that is a problem. The freezer side was starting to get cold, but I am worried about the condenser heat. I turned it off. Since I disassembled the freezer section, which has a fan under it on the freezer side, could that be the problem? Just want to play it safe. Thanks. Right now that fan was blowing, but just hanging in the freezer until i reinstall it.

Expert:  Tom Goellner replied 11 months ago.
The fan in the freezer SHOULD run - put it back. The condenser ( the grille or "radiator " ) near the compressor does get hot ,especially the part where the refrigerant first enters it , too hot to hold your finger on it for long. There is a fan - the condenser fan - that should be running to help cool the condenser . If that is running - go ahead and let it run and see what happens - be patient ,it takes a while to cool a warm refrigerator . The freezer section will get cold quicker than the fresh food side. If your fridge is empty of food it will take at least an hour to an hour and half for it to get down to the correct temps.
Customer: replied 11 months ago.

Okay. I will attach the freezer fan and plug it back in when I get home. Thanks.

Expert:  Tom Goellner replied 11 months ago.
I'll look for your answer tomorrow AM
Customer: replied 10 months ago.

After putting everything back together, and waiting hours, the freezer section is cool, but the fan does not run in the freezer section, and the condenser is hot enough to burn my fingers if left on it for more than a second or two. The temp in the fridge is 78 degrees after three hours. It is simply not working, and I am disconnecting again.

Expert:  Tom Goellner replied 10 months ago.
I want you to check the freezer fan motor. To do so you need a 9 volt battery and 3 jumper wires ( preferrably the kind with alligator clips on the ends ) Connect the positive side of the battery to the red and blue wires of the fan and the negative side of the battery to the white wire of the fan , yellow wire not used. If the fan motor is good it will run if not the fan motor is bad - part number WR60X10043 for the fan motor
Tom Goellner, Home Appliance Technician
Category: Appliance
Satisfied Customers: 1353
Experience: 32 yrs. experience servicing major appliances and HVAC equipment.
Tom Goellner and 5 other Appliance Specialists are ready to help you
Customer: replied 10 months ago.

This morning the freezer and fridge were both very cold. I don't know why it took so long for the fan to come on, but it appears to be working now. Thank you for your patience and help. One last question: The connector from the J15 to the inverter, since testing it, does not have a really good connection. Is there any reason why I shouldn't eliminate that connector and simply hardwire the connection? Thank you.

Expert:  Tom Goellner replied 10 months ago.
No reason you can't hardwire it, as long as there is enough slack in the wires to accomplish it.

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