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Hello.....When you close the optic door does the red blinking light go to solid red light?
yes. I replaced the light emitter and receiver. It did not work previously after the ice machine stopped. Thought it was as simple as that but when it didnt work I tore into the icemaker and found the heater leg had burnt out the housing and connection. So I ordered and replaced all these parts including thermostat. Now cant get power.
Sorry for not mentioning. I did fill the mold with water. It did nothing but freeze in place. nothing cycled. The water dispenser on front of door works fine so at least that half of the valve assembly is good. I have no idea how to check the electrical beyond what I have done. I removed the ice maker. There is a four-wire connection coming out of the side wall that plugs into the ice maker. I used a volt tester in each part of the plug and got nothing. I also plugged in the ice maker and shorted across the V and L ports per something I read. It did nothing. Also tried same with T and H ports and got nothing. Where else can I check the wiring. I looked in the back of the refrigerator where the power goes in and cant see any way to trace to the icemaker.
I dont have a meter. It is just a cheap voltage tester for checking outlets. It only lights up when it detects power. The optics are working but I cannot tell where the wiring comes from as it is hidden in the wall of the freezer. is it possible that the short exists in just the section of the harness that plugs into the icemaker?
Here is how to cycle the icemaker.......unplug the fridge, insert a jumper between T and H on the icemaker, close the door, plug the fridge back in 30-60 seconds after unplugged, wait fro 10 seconds before opening the freezer door. The icemaker should be cycling.
did exactly as you said. Nothing happened. jiggled jumper wires, tried again. Still nothing.
are you talking about the receiver board for the light emitter? or do you mean jumpering something on the icemaker?
assuming you are talking about the receiver board.......I used my volt tester on it and got it to light by touchingt the soldered nubs on the board below the wires. touching either of the two on the right with either of the two on the left lit up the tester so there is definitely power to that point.
So I need to replace the entire harness that goes the length of the ice maker? I assume that the fuse is located in the thicker section of the black wire that is held by a clip on the back of the mold? any way to replace just the fuse?
The fuse is not replaceable, you will have to replace the little harness unfortunately. Thanks again
last question: why does the receiver board getting 120V guarantee that the icemaker is getting 120 V? When I unplug the ice maker and use the volt tester on the exposed plug at the freezer wall, why doesnt it show power if the fault is in the harness fuse?
agreed. I hope it works. Thanks for the help