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Kelly
Kelly, Appliance Technician
Category: Appliance
Satisfied Customers: 11565
Experience:  Highly accurate diagnostician with over 30 years experience!
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whirlpool ED22TDQXEW01 side by side. Poor cooling in fridge

Customer Question

whirlpool ED22TDQXEW01 side by side. Poor cooling in fridge and freezer. Evap and conden fans working, as well as compressor. Checked air flow between freezer and fridge and it was okay (I think). Cleaned coils, compressor is hot to touch. I pulled off the relay/overload, but don't know what to look for. Now I am trying to find the start capacitor but cannot find it - I do understand that the capacitor holds a charge. Wires from compressor go back to fan motor.

Questions, where is the capacitor in this model, and should I just go ahead and replay the relay/overload devices?
Submitted: 1 year ago.
Category: Appliance
Expert:  Kelly replied 1 year ago.
Thanks for counting on us to help with your appliance problem. My name is XXXXX XXXXX I look forward to helping you! The overload and relay you pulled off the compressor, if you shake it, does it rattle?
Customer: replied 1 year ago.


Hi Kelly: The overload and relay are two separate pieces - each connected to a separate red or white wire

Expert:  Kelly replied 1 year ago.
Yes, the dark colored relay, pictured below, does it rattle?


Start Relay(NNN) NNN-NNNNMain Product View
Customer: replied 1 year ago.


no, just took it back off and shook it. No rattle

Expert:  Kelly replied 1 year ago.
Okay, that is not good. Is the freezer cooling at all?
Customer: replied 1 year ago.


yes, freezer was cooling, the ice was not melting in ice maker. Temperature in fridge was 40F this morning. Did not make for good milk.

Expert:  Kelly replied 1 year ago.
Oh okay, so the relay is not the issue. You probably have a defrost issue. Can you remove the panel from the back of the freezer, inside the freezer, please? Any frost in there?
Customer: replied 1 year ago.


I can, but I have already unplugged it and letting the unit thaw for about 2.5 hours. Do want me to still remove panel now, or plug it back in and let you know what I found tomorrow?

Expert:  Kelly replied 1 year ago.
It will probably still be frosted, go ahead and remove it and see what you find, please.
Customer: replied 1 year ago.


Okay, those are some annoying little screws!! Okay we have ice, not frost, the ice gets progressively thicker toward the bottom of the coils, and the sides of the coil are solid ice.

Expert:  Kelly replied 1 year ago.
Okay, problem identified, now for the solution! Do you have a meter to test continuity with?
Customer: replied 1 year ago.


yes, and I know how to use it!

Expert:  Kelly replied 1 year ago.
That is awesome, this will be a piece of cake then! In the ice, you will see a defrost thermostat and a heater, both pictured below. Can you test continuity through them both, please? The thermostat is at the top and the heater is at the bottom with the connectors at the top of the coil.


Customer: replied 1 year ago.


no continuity through thermostat, and do have continuity through heater. If you don't have long arms, this would be a real pain.

Expert:  Kelly replied 1 year ago.
Great! Was the thermostat still in ice?
Customer: replied 1 year ago.


no

Expert:  Kelly replied 1 year ago.
Okay, it will open at about 50* F. Do you think it was colder than that? They have a pretty low failure rate and usually they will expand and become disfigured when they fail.
Customer: replied 1 year ago.

Since the cover was still over the coils, I going to guess that it was not yet 50 at the thermostat, it does not seem to be disfigured or show expansion.

Expert:  Kelly replied 1 year ago.
Okay, well there are three components in the defrost circuit. One has tested good, the heater, and one is questionable. The other you can't really test with 100% certainty, the timer. So, the timer and the thermostat are both pretty inexpensive, it may be wise just to replace them both and avoid the possibility of having to go through this process again. The timer is up in the control area and is accessed by removing the screws at the back underside of the control panel and the screws behind the front panel that will carefully pry off once the knobs are removed. Both parts are available below.

Please let me know if you have additional questions or need clarification. There is no additional charge for any follow up help!

 

 

Thermostat <----- CLICK HERE FOR THE CORRECT PART FOR YOUR MODEL

 

 

Timer <----- CLICK HERE FOR THE CORRECT PART FOR YOUR MODEL

 

 

 

 

 

Please remember to leave positive feedback before you leave. If you have any other questions, please let me know! You may continue asking follow-up questions until you have all the information you need, even after rating my service. Thank you!

Kelly, Appliance Technician
Category: Appliance
Satisfied Customers: 11565
Experience: Highly accurate diagnostician with over 30 years experience!
Kelly and 3 other Appliance Specialists are ready to help you
Customer: replied 1 year ago.


okay, purchased the timer - now which lead do I attach the black wire? I don't have a wiring diagram for the fridge.

Expert:  Kelly replied 1 year ago.
Yours will need to go to pin number 2.

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