Need Appliance Repair Help? Ask a Technician for Answers ASAP
Hi. I'm Smitty. I am a professional appliance repair consultant here to help you diagnose, and repair, your appliance.
I am sorry to inform you that Larry passed some time ago.
Give me a minuet to get you the diagnostics information you need.
Aww, passed away? shucks, sorry to hear that, and especially if you guys were friends
We did have our moments, but yes he was a good friend and a great tech. I miss him a lot.
Lets try some diagnostics and see if the unit will tell us what is wrong.
To enter Self Diagnostic mode, both temperature control panel displays must be illuminated. A display
can be illuminated by pressing an adjacent temperature adjustment button. When both displays are
illuminated, set the freezer and refrigerator temperature settings to 5. Simultaneously press and hold all
4 temperature adjustment buttons for approximately 3 seconds. A flashing 0 in the refrigerator and
freezer displays will indicate that the refrigerator is in Self Diagnostic mode.
One more moment and Ill post the list.
GE GSS25SGMCBS -- no buttons on my temp controls, just manual wheels
Hmmm...,. give me a few. Need to go to the tech site to confirm correct manual.
Sorry NJ, but everything I show for that model number is ***** and not annalog. Can you please confirm that the number is ***** the unit and not from other paperwork.
here's the main scoop: I'm starting to think that this is all starting (and happening) because of the water freezing up in the icemaker inlet tube, becasue it must also be leaking water down the back of the freezer section which can't help but cause a defrost problem. Am I right on this, if this is what is happening?. I don't know well enough how these things work.
My heater element is good, i have a brand new defrost thermostat (which was not working/opened up so not sure what was the cause of that), so I understand my next steps would be to replace the thermistor on the top of the evaporator, and if that doesnt solve it, then it must be my board.
Before I start all that, however, I really think the problem may be simply coming from water weeping through the water inlet for the icemaker. (The water in the door works fine by the way.) The only problem I have had with this fridge over the past 10 years is the crushed ice auger not being able to work because ice seems to accumulate in the bottom of my ice cube bin/tray. Again, I think this might be a hint that this problem is just worsening but I don't know enough about it.
I think it might be wise to start looking into the water inlet before I start buying and changing more parts, and look to you for your advice on this.
How do I check the water inlet valve? Is it going to be under the fridge in the back? Do I need to check anything with the actual inlet hose in the back of the freezer which ices up every once in a while -- but not too often, maybe once every 3-6 weeks-ish.
This whole problem started when I started getting puddles of water from the freezer, and then the fridge section wouldn't be cooling.
Also, my freezer fan is constantly running and I am iced up again.
model no. atraight from the unit is GSS25SGMC BS --
I think I forgot the C in the original post, not sure if that led you awry, sorry.
Yes, it very well can be the leaking inlet valve that is at the heart of your problem.
To locate it just follow the water line from the homes source. It connecdts to the inlet valve.
Replaceing the inlet valve will stop the leaking and frozen inlet tube.
Any time you have excessive moisture in the freezer it is going to cause defrost problems eventually. The unit operastes on the principel of removing moisture from the air in the unit. This is accomplished by freezing it to the evaporator coils and then melting it off. Once melted off it drains to the evaporation tray just above the compressor and then the heat from the compressor evaporates it back into the ambient air of the kitchen. Replaceing the valve will allow the unit to get rid of the moisture and the defrost system to work as it should.
You can use a hair dryer to melt off the excess water.
Please let me know if you have any other immediate concerns.If not please select a positive rating at this time. Doing so will not close your question, and after you rate my service you may ask any followup questions you like. All at no additional charge.Thank you for the opportunity to serve you. Best, Smitty**How to rate your expert**
So is there one inlet valve I need to worry about repairing or replacing on this thing? And is it located down in the back? And is there any diagnostics I could do on it besides checking for secure connections? Or should I just replace it?
And on that note, if I repair or replace the inlet valve and still have issues, should I then just get a new board? I figure I'll spend the 8 bucks to replace the thermistor, but is it worth it to replace the board without narrowing down that it needs replacing?
Yes the valve is in the lower back of th eunit. It is not diagnoseable other than to check for proper operation of the dispenser and check for leaks at the fill tube. If it leaks it needs to be replaced.
Hold off on the board. They are not cheap and I really dont think that you will need one. Leaking ice makers (inlet valve) are always a problem when it comes to defrost systems that dont work right.
Thanks for your help. Just wondering, do you think it was just a coincidence that the thermostat opened up, or would it be somehow related? And should I replace the thermistor bc it's so cheap anyway, or is that not likely a problem either?
Yes, just coincidence. They seldom fail but when they go they go. No rhyme or reason to it.
I doubt that the thermistor is the cause of the problem. GEs tend to blow the thermistors in the referigerator but seldom in the freezer.
Go ahead and replace the inlet valve and then do a good defrost to the unit. If it ices upo again it is going to do it weithin the first week of operation.
If it ices up just return to this thread and we can figure it out from there.
I replaced the water inlet valve and thought the defrost problem was fixed, but... just had to manually defrost the unit. I guess the good news is it did take about 7 weeks this time for it to freeze over to the point that it affected the refrigerator temp. It used to happen every week to two weeks.
Again, I replaced the thermostat, the heater and defrost cycle are working, but the top half of the coils was all iced up.
Few things to note:
Freezer fan seems to blow constantly, not sure if that is normal.
A few times we had a plastic jug of iced tea in the back left of the fridge, top shelf, right next to the air inlet from the freezer, and the top of the ice tea actually froze...not sure if this gives any diagnostic help.
My wife likes to put too much stuff in the freezer, in my opinion, which I think may not help air flow--she really packs it in there. I know this doesn't help things but I still don't think this should trigger the need for manual defrosts, not sure though.
As I rack my brain trying to figure out what's wrong, I wonder if my connections/splice on the thermostat wires might be getting moisture and causing a problem (I did use a wing nut and packed it with silicone, though, and the defrost cycle seems to be working fine as the bottom of the coils are always fine).
My only thoughts at this point are either to replace the thermistors in the freezer and/or test the board somehow. Or could the defrost heater not be heating up enough to get the top of the coils? Those things either work or they don't, though, right?
Well, can't afford a new fridge so any further assistance will be greatly appreciated.
same issues, I need to figure this out again and you never responded, I've been defrosting the unit every 2 months or so. Please respond.