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Barry G.
Barry G., Home Appliance Technician
Category: Appliance
Satisfied Customers: 6423
Experience:  27 years in home appliance repair. EPA refrigerant transition and recovery certification type I & II.
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I saw you answered a question about a GE PFS22SBSBSS. I have

Resolved Question:

I saw you answered a question about a GE PFS22SBSBSS. I have an issue where the freezer runs up to 25 degrees before cooling off. The compressor is very hot, and the fan blowing on the coils is barely moving. I saw many posts saying to replace the main board, but before I buy this, how can I be sure it is the board?
Submitted: 1 year ago.
Category: Appliance
Expert:  Barry G. replied 1 year ago.
Hello my name is XXXXX XXXXX you for choosing our service.

Please give me a few minutes to look at the wiring diagram for your model.

Temporarily remove the cover at the rear and put a window fan blowing on the black coils back there. I will not be too long, do you have a meter to test with?

Thanks,
Barry
Customer: replied 1 year ago.

Yes, I have a meter. In one of your previous posts you mentioned to test across the blue, three pronged unit on the bottom on the control board. I tested and got 123 on the two outer prongs and nothing on the middle.

Expert:  Barry G. replied 1 year ago.
I understand, I probably did post that but I always need to look at a diagram. I have it up, just a few more minutes.

Thanks,
Barry
Expert:  Barry G. replied 1 year ago.
Click at the bottom to download the image. Your board may be mounted horizontally but will have the same connectors if it is.

Set a meter above 20 volts DC and go around behind the fridge. Remove the panel up on the rear outside wall.

Arrowed red is the connector to measure in the image. Count holes from left to right just like you read. Or start at the bottom if yours is mounted horizontally.

Black meter probe in hole 3 and leave it there.
Red meter probe first in hole 5.
Then test again in hole 8.
The fridge must be operating and your looking for steady voltage "near 13 volts" In both tests.

If you get the voltage the board is good and the motor is bad.
If you do not the board is bad. Be sure to leave a fan running back there and only replace the part you need if the refrigerator's freezer is normally cool in a few hours. If it does not get normally cool the heat will have damaged the compressor.

CLICK HERE FOR YOUR FILE.

If you have any questions please ask.

Thanks,
Barry

Customer: replied 1 year ago.

OK, I see the connector..I understand the ridge should be running when I measure the volts, but should I be disconnecting that connector from the board? Or sticking my probe in on the same side with the wires while it is connected to the board?

 

OK, 3.7 V in hole 5

 

13.6 in hole 8

Expert:  Barry G. replied 1 year ago.
Yes leave it plugged in and leave the connectors connected to the board, yes it is safe to measure it, avoid touching the large 3 spaded connector. That one will hurt you.

Thanks,
Barry
Customer: replied 1 year ago.

3.7 volt in hole 5


 


13.6 volts in hole 8

Expert:  Barry G. replied 1 year ago.
Wr55x10942 is the part number for the circuit board. That will be the part to replace. Be sure to follow the instructions that come with your board. There are instructions on both sides and all will apply to your model refrigerator.

Thanks,
Barry
Customer: replied 1 year ago.

Ok, thanks. Last question (i hope). I obviously removed the panel to access the board to do the tests, but I cannot see how the board is mounted. Do I have to take off the entire back of the unit to remove this board, or does it get removed from this access panel?

Expert:  Barry G. replied 1 year ago.
In each corner of the board there are small plastic pins. Squeeze each pin one at a time with needle nose pliers will pulling on that corner of the board to unlock it.

You are very welcome,
Barry
Customer: replied 1 year ago.

Thanks again for your help. I ordered the part last night. Last night after we emailed the freezer cooled down. Today it is up to 38 degrees and now the refrigerator part is running warmer too. Do you think there is anything else I should test in case other parts are bad, or based on your advice and the tests we ran yesterday, do you think it will just be the board.


 


I fan a fan blowing on the coils, although since the temp is so high it doesn't seem to be helping.

Expert:  Barry G. replied 1 year ago.
Touch the compressor on the top, is it vibrating lightly and can you hear the fan inside operating?

Barry
Customer: replied 1 year ago.

At first I did not feel anything, other then a hot compressor. Then I heard a click and felt some faint movement and heard a sound which I assume is the fan. Shortly after, it clicked again.


 


 

Expert:  Barry G. replied 1 year ago.
You may want to listen to it a few minutes. Your listening for a click just like you described down on the side of the compressor where the wires are connected in that area. And the vibration to see if it repeats about every 3 to 5 minutes.

Thanks,
Barry
Customer: replied 1 year ago.

I heard a loud click, (relay?), then heard a humming sound and felt the vibrations in the compressor. The sounds was coming from the area of the compressor. That lasted for a few seconds (5-10), it clicked again the humming stopped as did the vibrations.


 


Freezer now showing 39 degrees.


 


At somepoint should I just unplug it to prevent damage? I am hoping that the board is the only issue and not some other stuff, which will inevitably delay getting it working again.

Expert:  Barry G. replied 1 year ago.
If your sure the clicking is happening at the compressor and not at the board the damage may already be done. I was concerned about that because when that fan stops blowing the compressor heats and it can heat to the point that it burns up.

What you should do is go ahead and unplug it. Let all the components cool for a few hours and see if when you plug it back in the compressor will start and stay started. Be sure to have the window fan operating at the time you start it.

Barry
Customer: replied 1 year ago.

The clicking followed up the buzzing/humming is from the compressor, not the main control board.


 


Does damage done mean i should hire an appliance repair person to come on site and repair? Or damage done as in don't bother, and I need to by a new unit?


 


If it is have someone on site, do you have a rough idea as to what he should be replacing? Fair costs?

Expert:  Barry G. replied 1 year ago.
When you posted earlier the first time. Do you remember was the compressor so hot you could not hold your hand on it?

Barry
Customer: replied 1 year ago.

Yes the compressor and the coils were not. Today when I started todays posts, the compressor was hot, the coils were not.

Expert:  Barry G. replied 1 year ago.
Being honest I think the compressor is getting power because it is hot and if it is getting too hot to hold your hand on then it is getting enough power to run. It sounds to me like the motor inside has locked up and that is a very expensive repair. The fan motor and the compressor are on different circuits and both connect to the main board. I do not believe replacing the board will solve the compressor problem because the compressor runs on 120 volts ac, the fan is dc. If you ordered from repair clinic you can connect the board and try, they will take it back minus the shipping even if it is connected.

What I expect you will find is the fan will run but the compressor will not. I think it will need to be replaced to make the repair. You will need to call around because prices for the labor for that job can vary greatly. Just ask 2 questions.

Do you have an EPA issued license to recover coolant?

What is the minimum you charge to replace a compressor?

They will need the model number, I looked up the kit number from GE and it is WR87X10211 part number and I have it linked below. Sears was the cheapest well known company I could find for the part. $250 plus shipping.

http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/part-model/GE-Parts/Refrigerator-Parts/Model-PFS22SBSBSS/0432/0161000/G0805029/00002?blt=06&prst=0&shdMod=PFS22SBSBSS

I would expect you to find the labor for that job to fall between $500 to $700. There is one part that may get it running for a little while and that is called by a couple of names. 3n1 or hard start. I can tell you that though this part may get it going it will not last long, it is not designed to work with the type of setup you have and it will not last more than a couple of months. I do not recommend letting anyone install this part. The reason I bring it up is because a lot of techs still use these. They were fine for the older refrigerators of 20 years ago when refrigerators were not energy effecient. Not todays, so do not let someone do that. What that will do if it does happen to start is cause the coils inside the motor to burn, then charred bits will travel through the cooling system, then your refrigerator will truly be finished.

Please ask if you have any questions,
Barry
Barry G., Home Appliance Technician
Category: Appliance
Satisfied Customers: 6423
Experience: 27 years in home appliance repair. EPA refrigerant transition and recovery certification type I & II.
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Barry G.
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27 years in home appliance repair. EPA refrigerant transition and recovery certification type I & II.