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Mike
Mike, Home Appliance Technician
Category: Appliance
Satisfied Customers: 17629
Experience:  I have been repairing appliances for 25 years, I run my own appliance repair business.
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Hello, I have a Whirlpool Duet Gas dryer, model GGW9200LW0

Resolved Question:

Hello, I have a Whirlpool Duet Gas dryer, model GGW9200LW0 that no longer heats. The interesting part about it is that the heating capability degraded over a period of a couple of months ... in the last week or so, only the highest heat setting would work, and then finally that stopped too. Now, no heat at all. Usually, I would have thought that electronic or electric components are either working or not.
What I have done so far is determine that the igniter is not lighting up, and the ignitor is getting 120V, and that the thermal fuse has continuity. I have not been able to reach the hi-temp thermostat (#47) or the flame sensor (#48) in the Bulkhead diagram.
I have not located yet the cycling thermostat -- looking for that now. And, of course, the main controller board is the part of last resort, but having to replace that might total this 10 year old dryer.
Any help would be appreciated.
Submitted: 1 year ago.
Category: Appliance
Expert:  Mike replied 1 year ago.
Hello my name isXXXXX will be assisting you with this problem today. Thanks for trusting JA to help you with this appliance question.

Hello, if the igniter is getting 120v then your igniter is bad and will need to be replaced. Sounds to me because the heat has been getting worse over a period of months that you have a blockage in the exhaust system, Once you have replaced the igniter pull the vent off the rear of the dryer, run a load, if drying time is good then the blockage is in the vent from the rear of the machine to outside the house, if drying time does not improve then the blockage is inside the machine.

I would like to earn your highest rating, if you are not totally satisfied with my answer please hit the continue button.


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Mike.

Customer: replied 1 year ago.

sorry. I mispoke, or mistyped. What I meant to say was that the igniter is not getting 120V. That's what led me to continue checking the thermal fuse,etc.


 


As far as the blockage is concerned, I replace the vent hose, about 3 months ago. I did this just due to the passage of time, and it wasn't clogged up at all. the airflow out the vent is quite strong.


 


Lastly, if were were a blockage issue, that would seem to imply 2 independent problems. (blockage and some part failure).


 


Sorry for the wrong info.


 


 


 

Expert:  Mike replied 1 year ago.
Ok no problem Ron, Did you pull the wires off the thermal fuse when you tested it?
Customer: replied 1 year ago.

yes I did remove the wires. I had to remove the lint cover to get at it.

Expert:  Mike replied 1 year ago.
Ok Ron heres what you will need to do, First take the screws out of the rear lip of the top panel, remove the top panel, next remove the control panel. Once the control panel is off disconnect the door switch, remove the screws from the bottom of the door panel then the screws from the top of the door panel, remove the door panel, next remove the belt from the drum and remove the drum.

Pull the wires off the flame sensor, this should read continuity, if it reads open it's your problem, Test the hi limit with the wires pulled off, if it reads open it's the problem.

If the flame sensor, hi limit and thermal fuse test ok with the wires off next pull the igniter out, test it with a ohm meter, if it reads open it's bad, If it reads continuity it's good.

Last off replace the coils on the top of the valve, This will be the likely problem, they cannot be tested so they would have to be replaced, this should fix the problem but if not the only other thing it can be is the control board, this will likely have a bad relay.

I would like to earn your highest rating, if you are not totally satisfied with my answer please hit the continue button.


If I have answered your questions to your satisfaction please feel free to come back at any time after rating me "Excellent service" for additional questions you may have at no further charge :)

Sometimes I will have to give bad news, Please try to find it in yourself to rate me for the service not the bad news.

Thanks!

Mike.

Customer: replied 1 year ago.

ok. well, faced with having to take the drum out, I had renewed energy to disconnect the hi limit thermostat and test it. It read continuous.


Ditto with the flame sensor. I understand it is adequate to test continuity only disconnecting a single wire. the flame sensor read open.


So, if this is the case, then the flame sensor needs replacement, and hopefully not the control board which is a lot more $$.


the flame sensor seems to only be fastened to the burner funnel with a single sheet metal screw, which should be within reach.


 


Concur ?

Expert:  Mike replied 1 year ago.

If the flame sensor read open with one wire connected yes it's bad, the flame sensor is held on with one screw so it should be pretty easy to replace.

 

 

I would like to earn your highest rating, if you are not totally satisfied with my answer please hit the continue button.

If I have answered your questions to your satisfaction please feel free to come back at any time after rating me "Excellent service" for additional questions you may have at no further charge :)

Sometimes I will have to give bad news, Please try to find it in yourself to rate me for the service not the bad news.

Thanks!

Mike.

Mike, Home Appliance Technician
Category: Appliance
Satisfied Customers: 17629
Experience: I have been repairing appliances for 25 years, I run my own appliance repair business.
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