Appliance Repair Questions? Ask a Technician for Answers ASAP
We already checked the vent openings in both the freezer and refrigerator. They were unobstructed. In addition, we purchased a new thermometer to double check the one we're already using. The temperatures were with in one degree of each other. The digital readout on the refrigerator is 34 degrees, the freezer is 5 degrees. We have also turned the entire unit off to allow it to reset but still have the same problem.
Without resetting the "MAX Cool" button, the temp goes up and the food spoils.
Yes, there is a light coating of frost on the back panel.
I would like to earn your highest rating, if you are not totally satisfied with my answer please hit the continue button.
If I have answered your questions to your satisfaction please feel free to come back at any time after rating me "Excellent service" for additional questions you may have at no further charge :)Sometimes I will have to give bad news, Please try to find it in yourself to rate me for the service not the bad news.Thanks!Mike.
I've removed the inner cover from the evaporator assembly. There is quite a bit of frost around the heater connections that I have to let melt to allow access to the heater connections.
I assume that the air circulating fan should be either constantly running or at least be cycling on and off for a noticeable length of time . The fan cycles on and off but it's only on for less that a second, stops, tries to turn on once or twice then stays off for four to five seconds, then it goes back through the same cycle. When I check fan motor leads with a voltage detector, there is power to the motor with or without the blade moving. Could both the fan motor and defroster be bad.
Thank you for the positive rating. It was my pleasure helping you today. Please get back to me here at any time if you have additional questions :)
I still have the same problem (the refrigerator side of my kitchenaid, model KSS048FMX02, Refrig/freezer will not get any cooler than 49 or 50 degrees). The freezer works fine. In order for it to get down to 50 degrees, the unit has to be kept in the " Max Cool" cycle. This is accomplished by re-pushing the " Max Cool" button every 24 hours, which is the length of time of that cycle. If it is not in the "max cool" cycle the refrigerator will stop cooling and warm back up to 60 or 62 degrees. I taped a few narrow strips of tissue paper in front of the cold air outlet to check for air flow. There is some airflow but it is minute.
I've defrosted the refrigerator and I had a Sears serviceperson check the problem. He tested the fan motor, the sensor, the defroster element and ran the self-diagnostic test that was built in to the control system. He found nothing wrong. He turned the entire unit off then on and told me to wait 24 hours before putting food in. Since I had done all of this before, except for running the diagnostic test, I knew this was BS. Anyways, 24 hours later the refrigerator was still only registering 60 degrees. 48 hours later, it was still 60 degrees. After that, if I kept it in "Max cool" it would cool down another 10 degrees or so.
What sticks in my mine is the fact that when I took the cover off the evaporator you could see that the fan kept trying to turn but the blade could not make a full revolution. I checked the blade and it was unobstructed and free to rotate. I have tried to find a complete wiring schematic for that model but all I can find are generic versions showing general wiring schemes. Do you have any ideas where I can get a wiring diagram and/or what is wrong with the air circulating system?
I have rescheduled the repairman to try again tomorrow.
I just got back in. I rechecked the model number, it is KSS048FMX02 and the serial number is QT1624014.