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Tyler Z.
Tyler Z., Appliance Doc
Category: Appliance
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Experience:  9+ years being an appliance technician with factory training.
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I have a 2000 vintage GE side-by-side refrigerator Model TPX24BRDA-BB.

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I have a 2000 vintage GE side-by-side refrigerator Model TPX24BRDA-BB. The refrigerator side has two lights, upper and lower. The upper light works intermittently, and for no apparent rhyme or reason. I have removed and checked the socket and wiring and all looks solid and good. I have checked the bulb.

Whether the light is on or off, vibration will not change the condition, i.e. vibrating when on will not turn it off and vice versa. This is a really strange intermittent condition which I am trying to isolate the variable. Is there another definitive answer for a home user to look to correct this condition?
Hello, and thank you for using this service. I'll be helping you with your problem today.

So the only way to test and determine what is causing the issue, you'll want to test power at the light outlet ONLY WHILE THE LIGHT isn't working. If you're not getting power, you'd need a new light switch, but I doubt that's your problem since the lower light works normally. If you have 120 volts then that definitely means you have a bad light bulb or bad light receptacle, I would think the light receptacle is likely the part that is going bad and not making a good contact with the light bulb.

Customer: replied 3 years ago.

The receptacle has been removed and the contacts positioned so good continuity with the bulb is assured.


If the bulb or receptacle were the problem, touching or vibrating the bulb would establish continuity and the bulb should flicker, but this is not the case; the bulb is tight and vibration has no effect.... when it's on vibrating it does not turn it off, and when it's off touching or vibrating it will not turn it on.


Is there a secondary fuse within the fridge for the circuit? Is there any wiring at the bottom of the unit that should be checked? Where do the power wires split to power the upper versus lower lights? What about the switch itself? How do I remove it to check contact?


Right now your answers cover the obvious, and those tracks have been traveled.....

You are incorrect. Vibrating the bulb is not an exact test. Just because you vibrate the bulb doesn't mean it will establish continuity. Testing power as I have advised you to do will determine what is wrong. Anything else is just guessing. There are no secondary fuses or any other options. I've given you every option and told you how to test for exactly what is wrong. My answer is 100% correct and it will solve your problem if you follow it.

I'm just following up to see how your appliances is doing since I haven't heard back from you and this question is still open. Is there anything else that I can help you with today?
Customer: replied 3 years ago.

To close this inquiry, please remit the part number of the switch I will need to replace, and instructions on how to remove/replace the existing switch.... pry off, remove inner door, etc.


With this information I will accept your answer although I am not in agreement with all its assumptions.

So I never said the switch needs to be replaced. I gave you one of 3 options---the bulb, the switch, or the receptacle. Unless you've tested power to the receptacle and you don't have 120 volts, then there is no reason to assume the switch needs to be replaced.

That being said, if you've tested and you're sure the receptacle is not getting power, then you need to replace the switch because the only other option is a broken wire between the switch and the receptacle and you can certainly look for a broken wire, but since it runs through the frame of the refrigerator that may not even be repairable. Either way, the part number is XXXXX for the switch. To access the switch, just open the door and look near the inside of the door. You'll see a white plastic switch and it just pries out. Unplug the refrigerator first and then use a putty knife and pry on all 4 sides of the switch working the switch out while pushing in with the putty knife. The switch will eventually unclip and pull out so that you can replace it.

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