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Tyler Z.
Tyler Z., Appliance Doc
Category: Appliance
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Experience:  7+ years being an appliance technician with factory training.
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LG Refrigerator not cooling. Model #LRFC2275TT Freezer Frozen

Resolved Question:

LG Refrigerator not cooling. Model #LRFC2275TT
Freezer Frozen fine.
I have experience working on some units but would like help diagnosing this for my mom.
Thank you
Submitted: 1 year ago.
Category: Appliance
Expert:  Tyler Z. replied 1 year ago.
Hello, and thank you for using this service. I'll be helping you with your problem today.

So this particular refrigerator cools by stealing air from the freezer and blowing it up to the refrigerator. You'll need to somehow remove the entire drawer out of the freezer and remove the lower back panel inside the freezer. You need to see if it's packed with frost behind this panel and if the fan directly in the center behind this panel is running. If the fan is not running, then it needs to be replaced. If the fan is running and the coils are packed with frost, thaw out the frost with a hair dryer, and you have a defrost component that has failed.

Customer: replied 1 year ago.

There is ice build up on the back wall of the freezer. The fan is running. What do I need to test? Sensors? Heater, Defrost T-stat, Control board?


 

Expert:  Tyler Z. replied 1 year ago.
You can't test the control board. You'll need to test the heater below all the silver coils where the frost is building up. Test continuity through the heater and if it's open, replace it. if it test good, replace the defrost thermostat part number 6615jb2005c. And if you continue to have problems, the control board would need to be replaced as a last resort. Part number 6615jb2005c tends to fail often, so that would be the part I'd expect is causing your problems. This is a part along the right side of the silver coils where the frost is building up normally.
Customer: replied 1 year ago.

Thank you. I will be going to her house at lunchtime. Can you tell me how to remove the freezer door and/or drawer to access the back of the freezer?

Expert:  Tyler Z. replied 1 year ago.
I really couldn't say for certain without being there because the drawer has been re-designed many times. But you can pull the drawer out and remove the screws going into the rails and see if it pulls off, or possibly there are plastic levers on the back of the rails that you lift/push down on to release the drawer and it'll pull completely out, or something along those lines, but you'll just need to see it when you get there.

Please remember to rate my service before you leave. If you have any other questions, please ask me – I’ll be happy to respond. You can continue asking follow-up questions until you have all the information you need even after rating my service. Thank you!

Customer: replied 1 year ago.

Sounds good. Is there a diagnostic mode this can be placed into?

Expert:  Tyler Z. replied 1 year ago.
Nothing that is usefull in the least.

Customer: replied 1 year ago.

Thanks......I will let you know the results.

Expert:  Tyler Z. replied 1 year ago.
ok good luck and have a nice day.
Customer: replied 1 year ago.

I found frost on the back wall of the freezer. I removed the back and there was blocks of ice at the top that restricted the fan also. I defrosted it all. Then I tested the defrost T-stat and found the fuse to be fine, but the sensor had no continuity.


 


I started it up again. The fan ran fine and the frost pattern on the evaporator looked good throughout the entire evaporator after about 10 minutes.


 


I am going to pick up the defrost T-stat tomorrow.


 


My only question that concerns me is........when I tested the sensor and it was open, could that be because the temp was high enough after defrosting it manually? How can I be sure.


 


I feel it is either the defrost T-stat or the control board. I can buy the T-stat for $9.50 at my parts store in Phoenix. The board is $136 I can buy it from Repair Clinic.com with a 365 day warranty installed or not.


 


What do you think?


Thanks

Expert:  Tyler Z. replied 1 year ago.
You really can't be sure. The resistance on the sensor is supposed to be very high at about 10,000 ohms which might by why it tested open, but if the heater had continuity, you're down to the control board or the sensor. The sensor is much cheaper so there is no reason to try and not replace it and see if that fixes the problem. Then you'll know if you need a new control board.

Customer: replied 1 year ago.

That is what I thought also...Thanks

Expert:  Tyler Z. replied 1 year ago.
No problem.

Tyler Z., Appliance Doc
Category: Appliance
Satisfied Customers: 57594
Experience: 7+ years being an appliance technician with factory training.
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