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Hi. I'm Smitty. I am a professional appliance repair consultant here to help you diagnose, and repair, your appliance.
The NoCo error code indicates that the units control board is not sensing any cooling in th eunit. This is caused by a bad thermistor. The thermistor is locate in the light housing inside the unit.
As for the reset the page below shows the correct reset procedure. Below that is the thermistor and the testing procedure if you would like to test it befpore replacement.
Please let me know if you have any other immediate concerns.If not please select a positive rating at this time. Doing so will not close your question, and after you rate my service you may ask any followup questions you like. All at no additional charge.Thank you for the opportunity to serve you. Best, Smitty**How to rate your expert**
I HAVE RE-SET THE BOARD, FOLLOWING ADVICE I GOT FROM ANOTHER INTERNET SOURCE I FOUND PRIOR TO YOUR REPLY. THE UNIT WILL START UP, AND RUN FOR A COUPLE HOURS, THEN GO BACK TO NO-CO. I DID THIS THREE TIMES. THE LAST TIME, IT WENT RIGHT TO NO-CO. BUT, EACH TIME, THE DOOR SEAL ON THE FRIG DOORS WAS "HOT". WHAT NEXT? I'LL WAIT FOR YOUR REPLY BEFORE I DO ANYTHING ELSE.
I SENT YOU AN E-MAIL THIS A.M.,NO RESPONSE YET! ARE YOU STUMPED? I NEED AN ANSWER NOW!!!!!!!!!!!! AT THIS POINT, I'VE NOT GOT MY MONEY'S WORTH!!!!!!!!!!
John, unless you replace the bad thermistor you will continue to get the NoCo error.
The door seal being warm is a result of the unit trying to cool off enough to get the signal from the thermistor to satisfy the set temperature. This is called a Yoder loop. It is designed to help keep excess moisture out of the unit when the door is opened. If the unit is over cooling (or trying to cool enough) it will cause the Yoder loop to get hot.
Replace the thermistor and the unit will operate as it should.
I apologise for the late reply. I had to go out of town today and just got back.
I TESTED THE THERMISTOR AS SHOWN IN YOUR RESPONSE, AND THE RESISTANCE READINGS WERE IN LINE . SHOULD I RE-INSTALL IT, RESET THE BOARD AND TRY AGAIN? I WOULD PREFER IT IF YOU COULD CALL ME SO WE CAN FINISH WITH THIS PROBLEM. (XXX) XXX-XXXX. I'M ON CDT.
It cant hurt to try, John.
If the thermistor is ohming out within spec, and there are no loose or bad connections between the control board and the thermistor then the main control board is the problem. It is not reading the signal from the thermistor correctly.
John, I have repaired many of these in the field and diagnosed many more here on Justanswer. If it is the control board it will be a first.
As for calling you I am sorry but that is against the TOS. All communication must be done via the site.
Believe me there are times that I wish I could speak to customers personally. Some people just do not comprehend the written word. =/
I'VE TRIED VIRTUALLY EVERYTHING FROM RESETTING THE BOARD TO THE MAGNET TRICK, NOW' I'M GETTING "NO-AC" I CAN MANUALLY SWITCH TO LP AND THE UNIT WILL RUN, BUT GOING BACK TO AC GIVES THE SAME ERROR CODE. IF IT RUNS ON LP, DOES THAT MEAN THE COOLING UNIT IS GOOD? REMEMBER, WE STARTED WITH "NO-CO". THE CONTROL BOARD WAS REPLACED LAST YEAR.
Yes, the cooling unit is good if it cools on AC, or gas.
No Co indicates a bad thermistor. If the thermistor ohms out good then the control board is bad. If you are getting conflicting error codes then again the board is bad.
John just because you replaced the board last year does not mean that is isnt bad. One thing you shouldnt do is keep resetting these boards. That alone will ruin them. Every time you reset them you are basically surging the board to clear them. Surge any board and it can start acting strange. Heck, surge me enough times and I might start acting wierd.
Check the fuses on the main board just to be sure they didnt pop. If ok replace the control board.
IF YOU'RE POSITIVE THE CONTROL BOARD IS BAD, I'M GONNA REPLE\ACE THE PIECE OF JUNK WITH A 120V HOME UNIT. I'VE HAD THIS COACH 5 YRS, AND HAVEW HAD A PROBLEM WITH IT EVERY YEAR, NEVER COSTING LESS THAN $200. A NEW BOARD IS OVER $300, SO IT'S NOT WORTH IT TO ME TO CONTINUE THROWING $ AT IT. I CAN REPLACE IT FOR $1200.
I hear you John. The 1200 series has been plagued with more than a few issues. It has been recalled twice and from what I have seen answering questions here it is not what I arewould want in my RV. The The Norcold N6xx and N8xx series s a good choice if you were to stay with an absorbtion type refrigerator. About the only problem they have is the thermistor, but those are cheap (35 bucks) for that model series.
No matter what you decide to get I have one suggestion that will help keep the unit in good shape.
Just like a human that sits and does nothing all winter, when it come summer time he is not going to be able to get right up and run the mile in less than 15 minuets. Hes gonna need to see his doctor before he can start excersizing again. Any refrigeration unit needs to be excersized once in a while to keep them working properly. Especially regular units. There is a tiny bit of oil in them that floats around the system in the form of a fine mist. It keeps the internal compressor seals from drying out and allowing the refrigeant to leak out.
When you get the new unit installed start it up for about an hour every month or at minimum every other month. This will ensure that the unit operates properly come vacation time, and you dont end up with a big "doctor" bill.
ANSWERS WEE NOT RECEIVED IN A TIMELY MANNER;;;;;;;;;;I LOST 3 DAYS WAITING FOR ANSWERS. HAD I BEEN ABLE TO CONVERSE VIA TELEPHONE, PROPER EXCHANGES OF INFO COULD HAVE TAKEN PLACE. BECAUSE OF THIS, I WILL CHALLENGE THE VISA CHARGE AS "NOT AS PROMISED".
John, if you wanted someone to talk to you on the phone you should have called a repair service. I advised you that all conversations must be via the web site, and that phone calls were not allowed. You chose to continue this conversation, not me.
I provided you with sound advice and answered all of your questions the minuet I logged onto the site. I have a regular job that I have to do and can not be here 24/7.
If you want your deposit back all you have to do is say so and it will (still) be happily refunded. That simple.
Leaving negitive feedback after I upheld my promise to provide you with honest and accurate information is not only unnecessary but insulting as well.
Unfortunately the only way top remove a negative feedback is to upgrade it to a positive one. You can still request a refund after that. Matter of fact I will even submit it for you.
I hope you are enjoying your weekend.
I APPRECIATE YOUR OFFERING A REFUND, WHICH I FEEL I DESERVE. MAYBE YOU SHOULD SET-UP YOUR OWN WEBSITE, ANE GET AWAY FROM THIS NONE. THNX FOR THE HELP. BY THE WAY, FOR THOSE WANTING TO REPLACE THIS PIECE OF JUNK, A SAMSUNG RF197 IS ALMOST A PERFICT REPLACEMENT. SLIGHT MODIFICATIONS TO THE CABINET, WHICH I DID TO XXXXX THAN 2 HOURS, WILL GET YOU READY. THNX AGAIN.
John I can not submit your refund request unless you upgrade the rating.
Please understand that the ratings you give are used to determine if experts remain here on the site. Any negative ratings are a permanant black mark on my service record. Enough of them (even though the customer states that they were satisfied with the answers) accumulate and eventually can get the expert banned from the site.