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your relay on the main control board needs to be checked. remove one wire and see if you get 120 volts comming out of it when this is on dry cycle.
I must be missing something obvious. I can't seem to get to the circuit board. I removed the top and released the ribbons. Then I pulled out the control panel. That gave me a view of the back of the circuit boards. I spent about thirty minutes trying to figure out what tabs unlock the cover to get to the front.
Am I supposed to unscrew the individual circuit board to get to the relay? Or have I done this assbackwards?
Okay, I just screwed up so the rest of this conversation is academic. I am going to rate you high whether I get this fixed or not.
I was working on the wrong circuit boards so I reinstalled them. I took the one on the side (57) loose, pulled out the negative wire and turned on the power. Before I could check to see if there was voltage the negative hit the frame and a bright flash, loud pop, and quick shock ensued.
So I am pretty sure that I have killed the board. My question now is, was the board the most likely culprit. If so I will go ahead and order a new one (I am really trying hard not to buy a new dryer, this has been a really good one).
got the new board and installed it. The dryer worked for a few weeks (abou 10 loads) and today quit heating up again. I have checked everything else again (Thermal fuse, Thermasistor, all three sets of prongs attached to the heating element. I also have continuity within the heating coil.The plug does have 220/240 volts.The vent is allowing air to flow out.The control board is sensing wet.)
Any chance this could be a bad board or is there something common that would be killing the boars?
how would i do that? I checked continuity at the element