Appliance Repair Questions? Ask a Technician for Answers ASAP
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Pull the unit out, unplug the unit, and remove the lower back cover. Look at the round condensing coil on the right side, and see if it is plugged with dirt. If so, blow out the coil, until clean. Plug unit back in, make sure the compressor come on, and the fan as well beside it. If all check ok, this should get you going again. Please let me know if I can assist you further. Please give me a great rating for answering your question...thanks
I will do as you suggest. I am not confident this will solve the problem because it seemed to begin not cooling well suddenly. I would think dust and dirt would make the problem happen over a period of time. Stick around for the next installment.
That isn't what you said in your first response. I took the lower panel off and found only a moderate amount of dust on the coil next to the compressor. The fan was operating. The compressor is quite warm almost hot. I don't know if that is normal or because it has been operating for a long time.
I vacuumed the coil and plugged the unit back in. It started and the fan came on in the freezer. I will remove the panel in the back of the freezer in a few minutes to see what the frost pattern is.
OK. I took the back panel in the freezer off. There is moderate frost on the coils. It took about 10 minutes to remove the panel with the door open and the compressor running. I have attached a photo of the coils. I have an infrared thermometer. The freezer coils are at about 9 degrees f and the refrigerator is about 44. The display says the freezer is at zero and the fridge says it is at 44.
I replied by editing my last response.
Sorry about your son being in an accident. I hope he is OK.
In your absence, I put my problem out to any available technician. Repairman4734 aka Farrell responded. He says the problem is the defrost system has failed. There are 3 main parts that will need to be replaced, in order to get your frig. back in to working order again. WR50X10028 defrost termination thermo. $13.39 located on top of the evaporator/cooling coils.WR51X10042 Heater assy. $70.92 located at the bottom of evaporatorWR49X10138 main board $222.99 on the outside of back wall.
You seem to indicate the problem might be with the sealed system either a Freon leak or the compressor.
I am not sure which way to go because I am confused. Please respond.
A defrost issue indicates that that coil would be very heavily frosted over. The panel would have be frosted over as well. The pic you displayed should a partially frosted coil. Partially frosted indicates a Freon issue, unless it frosted on thru after the pic was taken. If so, Freon is good. Defrost issue just means that the coil never defrosted. which yours has according to the pic. Please let me know if you need more assistance...thanks
I have no confidence it will be at 0/38 in the morning. I just looked at the freezer coils and they are fully frosted. I will attach a picture. Can I leave the panel off over night and see the frost level in the morning? When you say frosted on thru do you mean fully frosted like it is in this picture? Looking closely to the picture, I see the top coil is not frosted. The lack of cooling symptom is the same as two years ago when the GE tech replaced the motherboard. Why shouldn't I assume the problem is the same as two years ago?
I feel I am not getting a clear answer. I don't want to throw money at this problem. Farrell says it is the motherboard and you say it is the compressor or Freon. Both are expensive and, at this point I don't know which way to go.
The symptoms are the same as when the motherboard failed two years ago. The repair tech said the motherboard goes into "limp mode" when it fails which results in inadequate temperatures. It seems to me the motherboard has failed again. But, I would rather not spend several hundred dollars until I am more confident this is the problem. Do you agree the motherboard is the likely problem or are you still thinking it is Freon or the compressor?