Well we tried the easy solution. Now we may have to go these routes:
This is right from the service manual
door lock may be broken SAFETY ERROR - switch ON/OFF for reset Normal mode
- door hook is stuck - washing program is aborted - check door lock
- door is stuck - door is unlocked, if possible - check mechanism
- stiff gasket - operator control actions are blocked - check wire harness
What all that means is the door is locked from a stuck lock, or the door is giving a false unlocked signal which would shut the machine down
so it would not run with the door ajar
then they say check wiring harness, not much help I know, but often these types of codes can indicate several issues in other words F34 is not just one fault it is an indicator of several possible faults much like the OBD of modern automobiles, you can borrow the test unit to find the code but the code is often general in scope it points you to a narrowed down search but often not specific
they simply cannot put a physical probe or sensor on every single component inside the machine, it would be cost prohibitive and logistically a huge mess of even more wiring and controls.
So a code is not always a huge help, most expect a code to tell someone "here is the problem" but when you think about it, all the sensors you would have to install would be massive sensors on door locks tell you the lock is open or closed but does it tell you the washer is full of water at the same time?
I try all the simple things first as narrowed down as we can get and hoping the code is pointing us at the exact problem which is often not the situation.
SO now let's move on to more attempts the goal is to avoid the directions at the bottom which are complex.
I will give you every simple type attempt to try, first before having to get out a bunch of tools or expect you to examine a wiring harness, anyone capable of examining a wiring harness is not going to ask for help on a code, sure they can examine the wiring harness for a big smoked up short and burnt wires but past that how to ohm the wires, how to follow them to the many components is no easy procedure,
I like to try and explain why it is often not possible for one single code to give a simple explanation of the problem or the fix to it, they are often somewhat general like the door is locked well hell you know the door is locked
With water in the tub it does sound like the drain is clogged
There are many ways the engineers design codes one is the time it takes to drain, if too slow say it takes more than 8 minutes to drain it could set off a trip and alarm or if no water at all is sensed draining out same thing code and shut down,
YOu might try it again [removing the power] the real aggravation is a bad sensor which is often what happens in cars the car is not broken the sensor is dirty or failed but how to tell from a meter is impossible
Remember I don't expect you to pay money and get no help no one may be able to give you the exact cure without being there
it is up to you what you feel like paying or not paying
I understand it does take my time and effort to explain this but you have a bigger mess on your hands and maybe costs of a service call
so do not be concerned with my pay, I am happy to just try and help
but please do not send negative reports when we are simply trying to help with a problem we cannot see the fact that I may not have a magical cure of pushing one button and the washer is fixed, does not mean we have given you every simple answer to try
It starts with these codes, I see where users see this code, ask what to do with it and the fact there is a code does sort of give the idea that if a tech knows the code and description of the problem there should be a solution provided in writing,
But it is just not how it works
Many people get so angry because the cure to their broken TV Set is not something like hold volume in, hold channel up push off on on remote,
Sometimes combinations of buttons will reset the electronics but often the best way is to remove power from the machine itself there are capacitors and cmos batteries that hold the electronic settings when no outlet power is at the machine [say during a power outage]
These devices from capactiors to small batteries holds enough power to keep the settings in place when the power returns,
By removing the power, if the machine [washer, tv you name it] there is always a chance the electronics will do a positive reset so it is worth the try not a simple dumb way of me getting paid, that is not the reason I suggest the simple things first.
Also was there anything sorta going on before this finally happened? Anything you can think of? That is why we ask what have you tried looking for history, it should really say where there other signs that something might be going wrong before the code appeared? Like the water took a long time to drain, the door handle was becoming harder and harder to unlatch manually.
That way we can kind of try to narrow down what might have been starting to fail so we can try and focus on a particular part or method to cure.
and once the sensor on the drain indicates no water flow out it locks the door, so water is not flowing out uncontrolled, so a F34, F35 so on says the door is locked because of many things,
After removing power try this:
Turn off machine [push off] - Turn it on while pressing keys 2 and 5
OR it may take a couple people have someone hold in 2 and 5 then plug the cord back into the outlet
... that may clear it all or it may be a physical blockage of the pump, this can get messy and involved be sure if you attempt to do the manual release and cleaning of the pump drain that the unit is unplugged and no other outlets or electrical components are at floor level in case water gets all over.
: On the bottom front of the washer you will find a round access cover, rotate it to the right to remove it, inside you will find a green cord to manually unluck the door, pull it down.
Door should now be unlocked.
Chances are the door won't unluck because the wash water is not draining from the washer due to a clogged drain pump.
Right behind that round access cover is the water pump. Before you open the pump cleanout, soak up all the remaining water inside the wash basket of the machine, or use a wet dry vacuum to vacuum up the water.
Have a shallow pan and lots of bath towels to catch the water when you open up the drain pump cleanout. Check the drain pump cleanout for lint, small socks, coins and whatever gets left in pockets of clothes.
Also Bosch can be Kenmore and vice versa have you read YOUR particular manual for failure or trouble shooting codes? If you have a manual with codes and they are different try those ,,,,
They make changes and you have to drill
down to the serial number to see what the changes were, but they change the manual to match the changes so a manual I might refer to might not be the exact manual needed to cure your problem maybe holding buttons 1-2-3-4 is the reset sequence on YOUR machine.
We want to try and get the electronics to reset if that is the problem first before we go to all the work needed to clean out the pump drain,
Going further there are fuses that protect the motor connected to the pump and that fuse might have blown from the overload of a clogged pump it just depends on the timing the machine should shut down before blowing the fuse however these devices can be off a second or so and not work in the sequence intended
Try a couple more resets and also with YOUR MANUAL before you go to all the work of draining the water and all that let me know maybe I can come up with something else to try first, it does indicate the sensors are ok and the drain is clogged or the pump bad more often the drain is clogged so that is good news let me know how you get along