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kitchenaid model kebs207dwh8 dual oven trips the thermal fuse

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kitchenaid model kebs207dwh8 dual oven trips the thermal fuse on the control board. jumpered it out temporarily to test. everything works fine, both upper and lower up to approximately 220 degrees. once either oven exceeds 220, the main breaker trips. has to be a common issue so i see the control power transformer the likely suspect, but cannot completly rule out the control board. the main breaker "could" be the issue but not likely. 221 across all 3 phases of the breaker output.
Hello, and thank you for using this service. I'll be helping you with your problem today.

The thermal fuse does NOT break from pulling too much power. The thermal fuse breaks from getting too hot. Generally this is due to self cleaning or possibly from the cooling fan not running up to speed. It has absolutely nothing to do with drawing higher current from the heating elements. If you just ran self clean, be sure to change the cleaning cycle time to 2:30 and that should solve the problem in the future. If you didn't self clean, did you leave the door cracked open when broiling? Older ovens you can do this, but you can not do this on new wall ovens. Other than that, the only thing left is to bypass the fuse and see if the broil element or bake element are sticking on way past the temperature you've selected (such as 350 degrees). If they are shutting off appropriately, you need to replace the cooling fan due to not spinning as fast as it should.

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Customer: replied 3 years ago.
I understand regarding the thermal. i understand then that if it gets too hot in that area, the thermal will trip. after overidding the thermal,i do not understand why the main wall breaker would trip though unless there is a short or excessive current draw somewhere, correct? this happens on both the upper and lower so i would not expect both elements to be an issue. i guess i can disconnect the fan, leave the thermal overidden, and turn on the upper oven for about 15 minutes which is about how long it takes the main breaker to trip after setting the temperature to 300. if the wall breaker doesn't trip, then i would assume that the fan motor maybe the culprit, in that it's allowing the thermal to trip when not bypassed, and would also be the cause of the wall breaker to trip?
If the main breaker is tripping and it doesn't trip immediately when you turn the oven on, it sounds like your breaker is just getting weak Especially if it happens when you select bake or broil. This is how breakers tend to fail, the breaker will get weak and after drawing a lot of power (such as when heating) the breaker will warm up and trip. If there was something wrong with the oven, it would normally happen the instant you turn the oven onto bake.

If you have an amp clamp you can confirm this by checking the amp draw on one of the wires to the breaker and making sure it doesn't exceed 80% of what the breaker limit is (example if it's a 50 amp breaker it shouldn't pull more than 40 amps on one wire).

Customer: replied 3 years ago.
ok, my last follow up for you. when the thremal is connected as normal, it pops after about 10 minutes of oven use. when it's bypassed, the wall breaker will trip after the same amount of time. this would mean that the oven is getting too hot around the thermal when it's connected and simply disconnects the circuit until it cools. if the breaker is going bad, could it be that the power coming into the oven is insufficient, and therfore causing the cooling fan to run too slowly which trips the thermal? it's almost like two potentially different issues otherwise. sorry for the reply backs. i just want to make sure i understand before signing off.
How would you know the thermal limiter pops after 10 minutes? You said you havent replaced any parts---did you replace the thermal limiter?

If you did and it keeps tripping, then it sounds like one of your elements is pulling too much power. I'd disconnect 1 element at a time and run bake, broil, etc. When you find which element disconnected doesn't trip the limiter, then that is the element that needs to be replaced.
Customer: replied 3 years ago.
The thermal resets. On the drawing it says it is a thermal fuse. Youwhich is located on the primary side of the control transformer and you can here it pop. After 10 minutes or so it resets and you can turn the oven back on. I have isolated both the top and lower elements already and it doesn't matter which set is on or off. It will run on either set for as long as I want until I turn the temperature up over 220 degrees. The same results for both the upper or the lower.that is why I thought that it may be the control transformer since the thermal fuse is in line with the transformer.
You're talking about part on the diagram that connects to P19-3 on the control board the white neutral wire? That is not supposed to be resettable. It should pop one and never turn back on. If it's resetting, it's bad--that's why it keeps going in and out and needs to be replaced.
Customer: replied 3 years ago.
Understood. It's bad. So I have two problems then, when I jumper it out, the main breaker trips after either oven is set to anything over 220 degrees for about 10-15 minutes. Either way, something is tripping the breaker.
or the breaker is just weak as I originally stated... it still sounds like you have a weak breaker to me. The only other possibility would be a shorted cooling fan? That will turn on when the oven gets hot, so that could possibly be shorted and trigger the breaker to short out when it's told to turn on. If that's the case, you can turn it to self clean and since the fan kicks on right away, the breaker would trip right away if the cooling fan was the issue. Otherwise you need to replace the breaker on your house.

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