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Barry G.
Barry G., Home Appliance Technician
Category: Appliance
Satisfied Customers: 6072
Experience:  27 years in home appliance repair. EPA refrigerant transition and recovery certification type I & II.
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Hello. I have a Sub-Zero 2 drawer freezer. Its either a 700BF

Customer Question

Hello. I have a Sub-Zero 2 drawer freezer. It's either a 700BF or 700BFI model.
It's not freezing anything but is maintaining enough cooling to seem like a refrigerator. Can anyone help me troubleshoot this problem. I believe it's around 12-15 years old. Thanks.
Submitted: 1 year ago.
Category: Appliance
Expert:  Barry G. replied 1 year ago.
Hello my name is XXXXX XXXXX you for choosing our service.

Inside the freezer you should be able to hear the fan operating, can you feel the air there at a vent?

Also inside the freezer at the rear wall can you find a light coat of frost on it? Be sure to look for it because it can be there even when warm. Let me know when you can.

Thanks,
Barry
Customer: replied 1 year ago.


I'm at work now, but i did look inside last night. Do you mean a fan below where the condenser is or inside? Also, there is a light coating of frost buildup at the back down where the vent slits are inside.

Expert:  Barry G. replied 1 year ago.
Thanks Phillip, actually the inside fan. The frost is what is doing it if it was covering a good part of the rear wall. Let me see if I can find a diagram for it.

Thanks,
Barry

Customer: replied 1 year ago.


I felt very little air blowing up from the vent inside. The vent panel is secured by what looks like 6 to 8 screws inside.

Expert:  Barry G. replied 1 year ago.
I have one, and just now looking. The frost will be isolated to the lower drawer, I can see that much now. Behind that wall. I need to locate one part.

Thanks,
Barry
Customer: replied 1 year ago.


yes, it was at the back wall and the lower plate simultaneously. Not completely covering it but about a 6x9 inch area with a buildup of frost.

Expert:  Barry G. replied 1 year ago.
Thats exactly the problem. Do you have an ohm meter Phillip?

Barry
Customer: replied 1 year ago.

Yes, at home. It's a pretty descent volt/ohm meter.

Expert:  Barry G. replied 1 year ago.
Good, it only needs to work. Dead on accurate is not important. This is what to do. Unplug the freezer. Defrost the coils behind that wall inside the freezer. You should find those coils completely blocked with frost. The air cannot flow.

Running along the bottom of those coils you will find the defrost heater mounted up very close. Follow the wires from the heater. One wire will connect to another part at the top of the coils that is the defrost thermostat.

Disconnect the heater wires. Set your meter to any ohm setting. Put one probe to each wire end for the heater. If the meter shows continuity the heater is good. None then replace the heater.

The thermostat the heater was connected to needs to be cold, so make everything safe and get the thermostat good and cold. Same test. Continuity is good, none and its bad. Replace that thermostat.

If you find both of those good then replace the control. I have an image for it but I cannot tell on the diagram exactly where it is but I do have a picture of it below. This part is usually located to the rear or underneath.

I have to go pickup someone, it will take me about 15 minutes. If you have questions I will not be long and if you do not please leave a rating.

Thanks,
Barry
CLICK TO ENLARGE
graphic

Similar thermostat
graphic

Similar heater to give you an idea of what your looking for.

graphic


Barry G., Home Appliance Technician
Category: Appliance
Satisfied Customers: 6072
Experience: 27 years in home appliance repair. EPA refrigerant transition and recovery certification type I & II.
Barry G. and 3 other Appliance Specialists are ready to help you
Customer: replied 1 year ago.


Ok, Barry. No problem. It will be later on this evening. I'll go ahead and leave a rating since there's not really much else you can do. I assume when the rating is left, you'll be paid. I'm sure this happens frequently. If I have any other questions or problems is it ok to contact you a few more times if necessary. I'm sure we'll be able to get this worked out but I don't want to abuse your help. Thanks, XXXXX XXXXX Knox

Expert:  Barry G. replied 1 year ago.
Yes you can contact me no problem at all. The best time to reach me is between 8 and 8 eastern time, I am however on earlier and later most of the time. If you run into something give me a shout.

Thank you for the opportunity and thank you for the rating.
Barry
Customer: replied 1 year ago.
Hey Barry, I haven't forgotten about your answers. I just haven't had time to look at my freezer yet. If I have any questions, I'll contact you. Thanks, XXXXX XXXXX
Expert:  Barry G. replied 1 year ago.
Thanks Phil, you have a great day.

Barry
Customer: replied 1 year ago.
Hello Barry, Im finally getting into to freezer and have some pictures for you to see. I believe the heater you speak of is on the very bottom close to the condenser. How can I send you these pics for you to see? Thanks, XXXXX XXXXX
Customer: replied 1 year ago.
I removed the plug for the heater and tested at 2K ohms and got a reading of .169. Is that good? Sorry I forgot this in the previous reply.
Expert:  Barry G. replied 1 year ago.
Hi Phil there is a paperclip here where we type that you can use to upload, its really picky though and sometimes does not work well.

You can upload them to http://tinypic.com/ and send me a direct link to the picture here in a post. That seems to work well for everyone.

Thanks,
Barry
Expert:  Barry G. replied 1 year ago.
Yes I think that is 16 ohms which would be a good reading.

Barry
Customer: replied 1 year ago.
I'm uploading to tinypic now.
Expert:  Barry G. replied 1 year ago.
That is fine, thank you.

Barry
Customer: replied 1 year ago.
http://s1278.photobucket.com/user/drp2thehill/slideshow/

I hope this is ok
Expert:  Barry G. replied 1 year ago.
That connector you have in your fingers there is the heater connector and it appears at least some of the heater is along the back of the coils as well. 16 ohms is a good reading for that part.

The part arrowed red needs to be cold. So reconnect all of the wiring, make sure all wires are safe and turn it on until that part is good and cold. Then disconnect that and take an ohm reading. It should read nearly the same as when you touch your probes together.

Later I need to ask about the part arrowed green but lets see what the red arrowed part reads first.

Thanks,
Barry

CLICK TO ENLARGE
graphicgraphic
Customer: replied 1 year ago.
ok, so I want to connect the heater back, turn it on, and let get cold. then disconnect the RED arrowed part and get an ohm reading, S/B almost -0.00, correct?
Expert:  Barry G. replied 1 year ago.
Yes that is all correct. There is an internal switch in that part that closes when it gets cold. When it breaks or when its warm its always open.

Barry
Customer: replied 1 year ago.
Great. I'll let you know.
Expert:  Barry G. replied 1 year ago.
Thanks Phil I will be here.

Barry
Customer: replied 1 year ago.
After I plug it in, how soon does the condenser fan generally come on?
Expert:  Barry G. replied 1 year ago.
It depends, up to 40 minutes before it comes on again. A lot of models will start in the defrost cycle when there is a power loss just to keep from trying to start the compressor over and over when your power is blinking on and off. I would say after that it should be operating.

Barry
Customer: replied 1 year ago.
Ok, thank you.
Expert:  Barry G. replied 1 year ago.
You are welcome, just give me a shout.

Barry
Customer: replied 1 year ago.
OK, the thermostat in the red pointer has an ohms reading of .004, also, the fan has never come on. Phil
Expert:  Barry G. replied 1 year ago.
The fan inside the freezer is not operating?

Barry
Customer: replied 1 year ago.
No, not at all. I've checked it several times. Also the condenser is freezing up again already.
Expert:  Barry G. replied 1 year ago.
Have you had the drawers closed? Also the thermostat may run the fan as well.

Thanks,
Barry
Customer: replied 1 year ago.
Yes, absolutely. Was the ohms reading on the red arrow thermostat ok? It might be the Green arrow part?
Expert:  Barry G. replied 1 year ago.
Yes that is a good reading. That fan motor, according to the wiring diagram I have should operate at 120 volts ac. Can you safely touch off and get a reading on the connectors to that motor?

Thanks,
Barry
Customer: replied 1 year ago.
Let me give it a try.
Expert:  Barry G. replied 1 year ago.
Thanks Phil, I will be here still. Take your time.

Barry
Customer: replied 1 year ago.
No volts to the fan. There were three contacts. Leftmost, ground, middle-white, rightmost-red. I tested it everyway I could think of. Also, I tested the 'green' arrow part and it reads no ohms. the readout stayed '1' when I tested it.
Expert:  Barry G. replied 1 year ago.
The board is not sending power to the motor. Let me see if I can find a part number for it.

Barry
Customer: replied 1 year ago.
sounds good.
Expert:  Barry G. replied 1 year ago.
Phil I need your serial number.

Thanks,
Barry
Customer: replied 1 year ago.
M1175375
Expert:  Barry G. replied 1 year ago.
(NNN) NNN-NNNNis the part number. I cannot find it online anywhere. You might try locally or you could try Sub Zero at (800)(NNN) NNN-NNNN.

The sources I use are pretty reliable, I cannot believe they do not have one.

Barry
Customer: replied 1 year ago.
I'll try online and see what I can find. If needs be, I'll call Sub-Zero. Thanks again for your help. I'll let you know how it goes. Any word about that little 'green' arrow part?
Expert:  Barry G. replied 1 year ago.
That is a sensor, I can only tell in the wiring diagram that it is wired to the low voltage section of the control board and that is all of the information on the entire sheet about that part. In most applications based on training from other brands and models that will be the one that tells the control board what the temperature of that coil is and for how long its at that temperature. That information is then used to determine the length of time the refrigerator defrosts.

Barry

Customer: replied 1 year ago.
You evaluate it's the main board then? I tried Repair Clinic and no-go. Looks like Sub-Zero then.
Expert:  Barry G. replied 1 year ago.
Yes Phil that is the bad part.

Barry
Customer: replied 1 year ago.
I wanted to express how much I appreciate your help. Is there any way to give some kind of bonus for you?
Customer: replied 1 year ago.
Nevermind, I found it. Again, couldn't be happier with your help. Have a great weekend.
Expert:  Barry G. replied 1 year ago.
The only way I know of Phil is to contact customer service or,,,,it appears you found it. I did not know you could do that.

Thank you very much, it sure has been nice to get to meet you. Have a great rest of the weekend Phil and please return.

Barry
Customer: replied 1 year ago.
I will, definitely. Thanks again, Phil Knox
Customer: replied 1 year ago.
Hello Barry. I finally got the circuit board installed. One: I finally figured out the fan probably was working, if the drawers are open the fan stops automatically. Two: I never tested the secondary heater for Ohm continuity.
Anyway, here are pics of the unit that ran all night until this morning. Any thoughts? I'm one aggravated dude.

http://s1361.photobucket.com/user/drp2thehill1/slideshow/
Customer: replied 1 year ago.
If you wan to see the before pics, please click on the other url I left. I couldn't get signed back into tinypic under my other email address and had to make another one. Thats why all the pictures aren't in the same library.
Expert:  Barry G. replied 1 year ago.
I understand, did you have the cover over the coils when you turned it on?

Barry
Customer: replied 1 year ago.
Yes, at first. I took it off to watch and see if the fan was running and didn't put it back on. I thought about putting it back on, but forgot. I know you're gonna tell me I should have left it on for normal operation, right? :(
Sorry. I'll probably need to unplug it, let it defrost, replace the cover, then turn it back on for another test.

Did I put all the connections you can see from before and after back on correctly? I numbered each plug as I disconnected it, number 1,2,3,etc. then numbered the plugs on the new circuit board as best as I could identify them.
Thanks.
Expert:  Barry G. replied 1 year ago.
Yes it all looked good, and yes put the cover on, it does not need to be tight but it needs to be up to direct the air. I noticed the frost and its location, I thought maybe it was not up. Just one or two screws will be fine until you are ready to put it all back up tight. And yes you will need to defrost it. You can use a hair dryer if you would like to do that.

Your welcome Phil, have a really nice day.
Barry
Customer: replied 1 year ago.
Shuldn't I test the secondary heater coil? It's actually up there by where it's frosting over. Never did check it. Could it be bad? Just trying to cover all my bases.
Expert:  Barry G. replied 1 year ago.
Yes you can check it, same test. You should get an ohm reading between 10 and 20 ohms. Strange that heater is not even on the wiring diagrams.

Thanks,
Barry
Customer: replied 1 year ago.
ok, thanks.
Customer: replied 1 year ago.

Hi Barry, I tested the secondary heater, and got a .024 ohm reading. I retested the lower heater and got the same .169 ohm reading. Is the secondary heater bad? Also the little black object strapped to the condenser coil (the green arrow in the picture) tested warm open at .1 ohms. The other thermostat (red arrow) tested closed at -.000 ohms, like when you touch the probes together. I haven't tested the black one strapped on at cold yet. Do I need to, or does it seem the black one strapped on and the secondary heater are bad? Can you find any diagram showing either one of these components? Just want to get this working after $240 for the circuit board. Thanks Phil

Expert:  Barry G. replied 1 year ago.
All of those are good, below is the wiring diagram, its called a thermistor.

CLICK HERE FOR FILE.

Barry
Customer: replied 1 year ago.

Anything else you can think of? It's still doing exactly like before.


 

Expert:  Barry G. replied 1 year ago.
Phil is this the part that tested open? I only saw one on the diagram, are there 2 in the freezer?

Barry
CLICK TO ENLARGE
graphic
Customer: replied 1 year ago.

Honestly? I'm not sure, but it looks like it. I only see one. It almost looks like it's put on as an afterthought. It's on the rightmost top evaporator coil attached with two red zip strips. it's above the thermostat.

Expert:  Barry G. replied 1 year ago.
That is it, I remember seeing the red zips in the picture. If that is reading open try this. Put it in a glass of ice water for 10 minutes and take a reading. Then put it in warm water for 10 minutes and take a reading. Does the reading change? It should not read open, the reading should change.

Barry
Customer: replied 1 year ago.

ok, thanks. ill let you know

Expert:  Barry G. replied 1 year ago.
Your welcome, I will be here, I have no plans.

Barry
Customer: replied 1 year ago.

Tested both Ice cold and warm, same reading .1

Expert:  Barry G. replied 1 year ago.
Its supposed to change. And on your meter .1 is the same as nothing right?

Barry
Customer: replied 1 year ago.

Yes, when I turn it to 2K ohms, the reading begins at .1, also I wanted to make sure that when I tested the secondary heater, and got a .024 ohm reading, that you said the reading was ok. Since the other heater tested at 16 ohms and this on tested at 02 ohms was that good?

Expert:  Barry G. replied 1 year ago.
Yes if that heater is reading its is good, when a heater goes bad it reads open. Most read between 10 and 20 ohms but that depends on the size too, and they always break when they go bad. Like a light bulb when they are bad the filiment breaks.

I cannot find it in the manual what the application is for this sensor. Its not stated on the diagram, I can only go on what I think. In some applications like some refrigerators are setup to use a thermistor like that to supply the board with temperature information, length of time at what temperature, also the board will keep track of the door opening and closings. Then the board determines when to defrost and how long to defrost. In other units there is also the defrost thermostat like yours has.

I have no real way of knowing that this is what this part is used for, I can say that being what it is (a thermistor) the resistance should change between warm and cold. So I think that is it.

Did the freezer ever get cold?

Barry
Customer: replied 1 year ago.

Yes, it gets somewhat cold on the bottom drawer when you put your hand flat on the drawer. The most obvious is that the evaporator almost immediately begins to frost over. On a side note, originally I'd tested the power to the evap fan with the drawers out. Real dumb. Those door things on the back wall that turn off the lights when the doors are closed? They also control the fan on/off. Drawer open, off, drawer closed fan on. Just FYI.

Expert:  Barry G. replied 1 year ago.
Thank you Phillip, I believe it. If you look at the diagram they are not drawn into the light section of the diagram. The switches go directly to the board and the board turns the lights off and on, so yes it probably does switch the fan off and on as well.

How long did you let it run, overnight and it was not cold the next day the first day? Is it turning off?

Barry
Customer: replied 1 year ago.

It ran for a couple of days. Only reached coldness, never freezing, just gets frost covered. Honestly, now that you mention it, I don't think it ever turns off, which it should from time to time, correct?

Expert:  Barry G. replied 1 year ago.
Yes it should, thaw it out and put the cover up. Make sure its not cutting off, those coils looked pretty frosty to me. Let it run a few hours 5 or 6 and that should be long enough for it to get cold.

Barry
Customer: replied 1 year ago.

You mean put the cover on inside? does the underneath cover for the condenser need to be on for normal operation as well?

Expert:  Barry G. replied 1 year ago.
The rear outside cover is not critical, but the inside cover is. That will cause the coils to frost heavy and the fan does not pull air through the coils to cool.

Barry
Customer: replied 1 year ago.

ok, ill time it for 5 hours after plugging it in. I assume by that time it should have cooled enough to shut off correct?

Expert:  Barry G. replied 1 year ago.
Yes I would think that is long enough.

Barry
Customer: replied 1 year ago.

Oh yeah, I took that strapped on part off. Do I need to at least plug it back in, or just leave it off?

Expert:  Barry G. replied 1 year ago.
No its reading open, I do not believe it will change a thing.

Barry
Customer: replied 1 year ago.

I tried to start the unit w/o the little part I took off. It came on for a couple seconds, then shut off. Also, the upper heater element came on and looked like it was going to stay on. I found it when I decided to check and see if the part had to be at least plugged in, and I found the heater on. It got hot so at least I know it's working. I plugged in the part and using the on/off switch at the bottom front restarted the unit. It's running now. I've got a 5 hour timer on. We'll see.

Expert:  Barry G. replied 1 year ago.
Great, thanks Phil I plan to be here.

Barry
Customer: replied 1 year ago.

Hi Barry. The unit has run for five hours and hasn't shut off at all. There is almost complete frost on the upper two sections of the evaporator. Exactly the same symptoms as before. The unit is cold but not freezing.


Thanks, Phil

Expert:  Barry G. replied 1 year ago.
Looking at the coils its hard to see but it sure does not look like a low coolant condition, the coils should be frosted more than halfway but I would think it would be cold.

Look on the model sticker, there is an R- with a number after it , what is that number?

Barry
Customer: replied 1 year ago.
It says R134A
Expert:  Barry G. replied 1 year ago.
There should be a weight in lbs and ounces, its a very small amount. Take a look at the coils again they should be frosted from top to bottom. Lightly at the bottom but they should be frosted, if they are not take a look at the larger line on the compressor, usually they are 3/8ths inch, is that what it is? It might be smaller since the freezer is so small.

Barry
Customer: replied 1 year ago.

http://i1278.photobucket.com/albums/y516/drp2thehill/IMG_0076_zps041a64c2.jpg


 


Barry, this is the frosting on the unit after running solid for 2 days. The tag inside says 6 lbs of freon. The large line on the compressor looks to be about 3/8". Again, the inside is cold enough to store food like a fridge but does not freeze. Will replacing the small thermistor make a difference since the circuit board's receiving no info from the busted one? Tanks, Phil

Expert:  Barry G. replied 1 year ago.
Well it may be a little low of coolant but it appears to me there is enough frost it should be colder than a refrigerator. You can get it in a can at walmart, just under a pound a can.

Below is the valve to use. It goes on the larger line, I am not sure if walmart will have a correctly fitting adapter, fridges and car fittings are different sizes. If you add coolant be sure you are adding it as gas. Put the clamp at the top of the can and hold the can upright not upside down and that will be gas while the freezer is operating.
http://www.amazon.com/Supco-Bullet-Piercing-BPV31-Tubing/dp/B004OM8UBG

That thermistor is definitely bad so yes that will need to be replaced. I do not believe it has anything to do with the cooling but the defrost cycles is what these parts are mostly used for.(NNN) NNN-NNNNis the part number Phil.

Barry




Customer: replied 1 year ago.

Thanks, XXXXX XXXXX have a good quality set of Freon gauges. Is it ok to just put a piercing valve and use the low side gauge? Also if I use the gauge, what 'between' temps will I be looking for on the gauge? Would you recommend adding valves to both the low and high side and filling that way?


Also, I know I'm probably going past the appropriate amount of questions and still asking for help. If this is the case, please let me know, and how much more $ is needed. Thanks again for all your help, Phil Knox

Expert:  Barry G. replied 1 year ago.
No problem Phil, I want it right too. No need for the high side valve you would be seeing other problems such as a frosty line coming from the compressor.

You can use an existing valve if its there and the low side pressure needs to be below 3 psi. If you go beyond that then the frost will be pushed outside of the freezer.

Thanks,
Barry
Customer: replied 1 year ago.

Barry, I really appreciate your professionalism. I'll get the part and get it replaced then try to add some freon. Thanks again, Phil

Expert:  Barry G. replied 1 year ago.
Thanks Phil please let me know how it goes, I really want to see this through to the end. I look forward to hearing from you.

Barry
Customer: replied 1 year ago.

I will, thanks again.

Customer: replied 1 year ago.

FYI-Good laugh! They want $67.50 for that little thermistor @ sub-zero. What a ripoff. Phil

Expert:  Barry G. replied 1 year ago.
OMG that is a rip off, there are slightly different thermistors (will not work) and those for other models is less than $10. That is extremely high.

Barry
Customer: replied 1 year ago.

You know anyone who might have one of these that have been removed from other models like mine? Phil

Expert:  Barry G. replied 1 year ago.
I have a phone number for a guy I know in Montana, he deals in used or obsolete parts, give me a few minutes to get it for you.

Barry
Customer: replied 1 year ago.

Thanks sir!

Expert:  Barry G. replied 1 year ago.
(NNN) NNN-NNNNis the number. His name is XXXXX XXXXX have tons of parts from what I hear, I have never been there but I do have friends in the area that have. He has a good reputation and from everything I can gather from customers I know I have never heard anything bad about him.

Barry
Customer: replied 1 year ago.
Found one @ Great Plains Appliance in Dallas for $36. went ahead and got it. Maybe this will do the trick. Thanks, Phil
Expert:  Barry G. replied 1 year ago.

Good deal, I knew it could be found cheaper. I think you will need to add some 134a but that should take care of it. Those 2 things and I couldn't imagine anything else being wrong with it.

Barry

Customer: replied 1 year ago.

Can I add some red dye to test for a leak just in case?

Expert:  Barry G. replied 1 year ago.
Yes you can do that just follow the instructions, I only used dye a couple of times. When I first started I used high pressure nitrogen and soap, it always worked so I never used anything else much.

Barry
Customer: replied 1 year ago.
Thanks sir
Expert:  Barry G. replied 1 year ago.
You are welcome Phil, have a good day.

Barry
Customer: replied 1 year ago.

Hello Barry. I replaced the thermistor and fired up the unit. I'd checked it several hours later, and the temperature on the top drawer display showed 31 degrees. I closed the drawer and came back in a couple of hours and the temperature was 44. I took out the bottom drawer to look at the evaporator and there was NO frost. I heard a strange noise so I listened closely and heard water dripping/sizzling on one of the heaters.(defrosting?) I found the fitting for putting Freon into the unit. It's fastened directly into the side of the compressor in the front. I guess the next step is a little Freon, I wanted to make sure I use the low side fitting on the gauges, correct? Thanks, Phil

Expert:  Barry G. replied 1 year ago.

Yes sir, the low side gauge and keep it below 3 psi. Directly to the side is fine too. And yes that was the defrost you heard.

Barry

Customer: replied 1 year ago.
Thanks, Phil
Expert:  Barry G. replied 1 year ago.
Your welcome Phil, let me know how it goes.

Barry
Customer: replied 1 year ago.

Hey Barry, it's the fan. I just got it going by hand and it wop-wop-wopped for a second and then took off. It's still going and the temperature is down to 27 and falling. I'm going to replace the whole fan assembly. I believe this will fix the freezer once and for all. Phil

Expert:  Barry G. replied 1 year ago.
Wow I Phill I'm glad you caught it. the bearings must be bad or half worn.

Barry
Customer: replied 1 year ago.
Agreed. The fan's kept going overnight and it's down to -2 right now. I really have appreciated your help. Thanks again sir. Phil Knox
Expert:  Barry G. replied 1 year ago.

Hi there Phil that is great! Listen a sec, I really have appreciated your patience! Your a great person, Thank you so much for being you!....Im not kidding a bit. Your the best!.

 

Barry

Customer: replied 1 year ago.

Hi Barry. One more question, What size adapter do I need that will fit the charging port attached to the compressor? I have a set of auto gauges and need to know which hose to get that will work on the port on the freezer. I replaced the fan and its been over 48 hours and it's only down to 34 degrees. I thought I'd try to add a little freon. Thanks, Phil

Expert:  Barry G. replied 1 year ago.
Wow that is a good question Phil, I have never worked on an auto with my guages. Let me see if I can find out.

Barry
Expert:  Barry G. replied 1 year ago.

I can tell you the standard size for a refrigerator is a male 3/8 and it is standard thread twist on. I don't know what size the auto is. I want to say it is 5/16th standard thread twist on but I am not positive about that. I always let someone else charge my auto's. I am sorry I cannot be more definite than that.

Oh and ask all the questions you would like I will do my best to help.

Thanks,
Barry

Customer: replied 1 year ago.
Thanks sir!
Expert:  Barry G. replied 1 year ago.
You are very welcome sir! Phil be sure to hold your can upright so gas goes in, not liquid. No liquid.

Barry
Customer: replied 1 year ago.
I will, thanks.
Expert:  Barry G. replied 1 year ago.
Let me know how it goes Phil and have a great day.

Barry
Customer: replied 1 year ago.

Hi Barry, I adding Freon now and the can has frost about halfway down and the low side needle is on roughly 3-5 lbs. I closed the flow to just get a reading on the compressor and it seems to be holding there. Phil

Expert:  Barry G. replied 1 year ago.
I would stop there. Watch your low side line over the next day for frost. If you get a frosted line outside near the compressor you have just a bit much in it. In any case I expect it will get cold and that will be the next thing to watch for. If you do not get one you are finished.

Barry
Customer: replied 1 year ago.

Sounds good. I'll keep an eye on it. Temp's already down to 33 from 44 and dropping. Listen, thanks so much for all your help. The good thing is almost all the parts inside that I can work on have been replaced. :-) Phil

Expert:  Barry G. replied 1 year ago.
Great, you are very welcome Phil. I appreciate the opportunity and I am glad you stuck with it. My hours have changed drastically so I am only available for a few hours through the week in the evenings and that will change again in the near future, but for now that is when I am around. And the weekends. Let me know how it goes when you can and have a nice day.

Barry

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