Need Appliance Repair Help? Ask a Technician for Answers ASAP
I'm at work now, but i did look inside last night. Do you mean a fan below where the condenser is or inside? Also, there is a light coating of frost buildup at the back down where the vent slits are inside.
I felt very little air blowing up from the vent inside. The vent panel is secured by what looks like 6 to 8 screws inside.
yes, it was at the back wall and the lower plate simultaneously. Not completely covering it but about a 6x9 inch area with a buildup of frost.
Yes, at home. It's a pretty descent volt/ohm meter.
Ok, Barry. No problem. It will be later on this evening. I'll go ahead and leave a rating since there's not really much else you can do. I assume when the rating is left, you'll be paid. I'm sure this happens frequently. If I have any other questions or problems is it ok to contact you a few more times if necessary. I'm sure we'll be able to get this worked out but I don't want to abuse your help. Thanks, XXXXX XXXXX Knox
Hi Barry, I tested the secondary heater, and got a .024 ohm reading. I retested the lower heater and got the same .169 ohm reading. Is the secondary heater bad? Also the little black object strapped to the condenser coil (the green arrow in the picture) tested warm open at .1 ohms. The other thermostat (red arrow) tested closed at -.000 ohms, like when you touch the probes together. I haven't tested the black one strapped on at cold yet. Do I need to, or does it seem the black one strapped on and the secondary heater are bad? Can you find any diagram showing either one of these components? Just want to get this working after $240 for the circuit board. Thanks Phil
Anything else you can think of? It's still doing exactly like before.
Honestly? I'm not sure, but it looks like it. I only see one. It almost looks like it's put on as an afterthought. It's on the rightmost top evaporator coil attached with two red zip strips. it's above the thermostat.
ok, thanks. ill let you know
Tested both Ice cold and warm, same reading .1
Yes, when I turn it to 2K ohms, the reading begins at .1, also I wanted to make sure that when I tested the secondary heater, and got a .024 ohm reading, that you said the reading was ok. Since the other heater tested at 16 ohms and this on tested at 02 ohms was that good?
Yes, it gets somewhat cold on the bottom drawer when you put your hand flat on the drawer. The most obvious is that the evaporator almost immediately begins to frost over. On a side note, originally I'd tested the power to the evap fan with the drawers out. Real dumb. Those door things on the back wall that turn off the lights when the doors are closed? They also control the fan on/off. Drawer open, off, drawer closed fan on. Just FYI.
It ran for a couple of days. Only reached coldness, never freezing, just gets frost covered. Honestly, now that you mention it, I don't think it ever turns off, which it should from time to time, correct?
You mean put the cover on inside? does the underneath cover for the condenser need to be on for normal operation as well?
ok, ill time it for 5 hours after plugging it in. I assume by that time it should have cooled enough to shut off correct?
Oh yeah, I took that strapped on part off. Do I need to at least plug it back in, or just leave it off?
I tried to start the unit w/o the little part I took off. It came on for a couple seconds, then shut off. Also, the upper heater element came on and looked like it was going to stay on. I found it when I decided to check and see if the part had to be at least plugged in, and I found the heater on. It got hot so at least I know it's working. I plugged in the part and using the on/off switch at the bottom front restarted the unit. It's running now. I've got a 5 hour timer on. We'll see.
Hi Barry. The unit has run for five hours and hasn't shut off at all. There is almost complete frost on the upper two sections of the evaporator. Exactly the same symptoms as before. The unit is cold but not freezing.
Barry, this is the frosting on the unit after running solid for 2 days. The tag inside says 6 lbs of freon. The large line on the compressor looks to be about 3/8". Again, the inside is cold enough to store food like a fridge but does not freeze. Will replacing the small thermistor make a difference since the circuit board's receiving no info from the busted one? Tanks, Phil
Thanks, XXXXX XXXXX have a good quality set of Freon gauges. Is it ok to just put a piercing valve and use the low side gauge? Also if I use the gauge, what 'between' temps will I be looking for on the gauge? Would you recommend adding valves to both the low and high side and filling that way?
Also, I know I'm probably going past the appropriate amount of questions and still asking for help. If this is the case, please let me know, and how much more $ is needed. Thanks again for all your help, Phil Knox
Barry, I really appreciate your professionalism. I'll get the part and get it replaced then try to add some freon. Thanks again, Phil
I will, thanks again.
FYI-Good laugh! They want $67.50 for that little thermistor @ sub-zero. What a ripoff. Phil
You know anyone who might have one of these that have been removed from other models like mine? Phil
Good deal, I knew it could be found cheaper. I think you will need to add some 134a but that should take care of it. Those 2 things and I couldn't imagine anything else being wrong with it.Barry
Can I add some red dye to test for a leak just in case?
Hello Barry. I replaced the thermistor and fired up the unit. I'd checked it several hours later, and the temperature on the top drawer display showed 31 degrees. I closed the drawer and came back in a couple of hours and the temperature was 44. I took out the bottom drawer to look at the evaporator and there was NO frost. I heard a strange noise so I listened closely and heard water dripping/sizzling on one of the heaters.(defrosting?) I found the fitting for putting Freon into the unit. It's fastened directly into the side of the compressor in the front. I guess the next step is a little Freon, I wanted to make sure I use the low side fitting on the gauges, correct? Thanks, Phil
Yes sir, the low side gauge and keep it below 3 psi. Directly to the side is fine too. And yes that was the defrost you heard.Barry
Hey Barry, it's the fan. I just got it going by hand and it wop-wop-wopped for a second and then took off. It's still going and the temperature is down to 27 and falling. I'm going to replace the whole fan assembly. I believe this will fix the freezer once and for all. Phil
Hi there Phil that is great! Listen a sec, I really have appreciated your patience! Your a great person, Thank you so much for being you!....Im not kidding a bit. Your the best!.
Hi Barry. One more question, What size adapter do I need that will fit the charging port attached to the compressor? I have a set of auto gauges and need to know which hose to get that will work on the port on the freezer. I replaced the fan and its been over 48 hours and it's only down to 34 degrees. I thought I'd try to add a little freon. Thanks, Phil
I can tell you the standard size for a refrigerator is a male 3/8 and it is standard thread twist on. I don't know what size the auto is. I want to say it is 5/16th standard thread twist on but I am not positive about that. I always let someone else charge my auto's. I am sorry I cannot be more definite than that.Oh and ask all the questions you would like I will do my best to help.Thanks,Barry
Hi Barry, I adding Freon now and the can has frost about halfway down and the low side needle is on roughly 3-5 lbs. I closed the flow to just get a reading on the compressor and it seems to be holding there. Phil
Sounds good. I'll keep an eye on it. Temp's already down to 33 from 44 and dropping. Listen, thanks so much for all your help. The good thing is almost all the parts inside that I can work on have been replaced. :-) Phil