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Jason, Home Appliance Tech
Category: Appliance
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Experience:  15yrs experience
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I have a KitchenAid 15" under counter ice maker. Model # XXXXX

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I have a KitchenAid 15" under counter ice maker. Model # XXXXX 0

The control panel lights do not power on. Circuit breaker works. I can unplug the main power from the pump plug into wall and still get power, so it's not the pump.

When I plug in it pumps out the water for ~5 seconds but does not refill or send power to the control board #W10226156. I have replaced the control board still no lights on. I have used a volt meter to prove I get power to the board and the transformer for the ice cutting wires. Transformer receives power and gives reduced power on exit per volt meter.

I am thinking it's the water level sensor that is bad cutting power to the control board. Or is it possible I have gotten a bad replacement board?

Is there some way to bypass the reservoir water level sensor or to test that the control board is good. There is no sign of over heated solder or items on the control board.

Any help would be appreciated. Thanks.

Thank you for using Just Answer. I will be glad to assist you in your answer. Think about safety when doing repairs, electric, water, gas, ect.


Please try this. Unplug the water sensor at the molex connecter above the pump (behind the "L" shaped white cover), turn the machine back on, and see if it lights up. Thanks

Customer: replied 3 years ago.

Unplugged it's connection and replugged in main power. Just cycled the ~5 second pump to clear the water. and stopped. No lights on control panel.


Ok, now try this if you would. Unplug cord going to the wall. Unplug the cord that is plugged into the pump. Now take the cord that was plugged into the pump and plug it into the wall socket. This will bypass the pump. I am looking to see if the unit will advance further, or not. I know I read you did something like this, but need to go over it to rule out things...Thanks
Customer: replied 3 years ago.

Ok. Unplugged main power cord from the pump and plugged into working outlet with no response. The pump line still works on the other cord giving power to the pump.

Ok, so you plugged the cord from the unit into the wall, not the pump cord....correct?.....just verifying.
Customer: replied 3 years ago.

Yes. The original power line to the wall still powers the pump, but when I plug the cord that was plugged into the pump into the wall I get nothing.

Ok thanks for the clarification. The 1st thing after the pump clears the drain line, is the water valve should fill the water reservoir. You replaced the main board, so I am leaning toward the water valve being the problem, part# XXXXX $119. This is not a regular water valve. It is known as a smart valve, and can cause problems for the unit. Before making a purchase of one, call the repair# XXXXX your owners manual, and make sure that Kitchenaid does not have a recall on this valve. I am thinking they do. The only other thing that it could be is a bad display board, which I have never scene go wrong on this model. I hope this information helps. Please do not forget to give me a great rating for answering your question. Just respond back if I can help further....Thanks

PS, the water valve is located behind the lower front panel. Remove 4 screws, and remove cover. You will see it attached to the left side wall right there in the front. If you do end up replacing it, make sure to turn the water supply off before doing so....Thanks again.

Customer: replied 3 years ago.



Now I am confused. Valve Part # XXXXX is located in the reservoir at the back of the ice maker.


Am I on the wrong part? see


I want to know if this part, in a failure scenario stops all power to the control board. I see that power goes to the transformer that feeds the ice cutter and the control board that feeds the internal light and things like the control panel, which you stated rarely fails.


Does this make sense? Thanks.



Yeah, for some reason the valve is on that page, but it is not located there. It is located behind the lower front panel of the unit. Remove those 4 screws, and remove the front lower panel. The valve will be staring at you on the left side. There are 2 screws that hold it to the left side wall. Normally the pump is the answer for this problem, but we ruled that out. Having power to the board, leaves me to go with the smart valve. I have seen this part put the unit to sleep before. Thanks again.
Customer: replied 3 years ago.

Ok. It sounds like I will need to check with Kitchenaid tomorrow on the recall of that part. Is there any way to by pass it to see if we can get power to the control board? Thanks.

Not that I know of. Hopefully my memory serves me correctly on the recall. That could save you some money. Good luck to you.
Customer: replied 3 years ago.

Ok. Before I close out I want to speak to Kitchen aid to determine if this is a recall and if it can actually shut down the whole unit for power. Thanks.



No problem. I understand the concern. Thanks again.
I was just wanting to check back with you on the icemaker issue. How is it going on that?
Customer: replied 3 years ago.

I called Kitchedaid they said it was under 3 year warranty, sent out service rep and he said only one year warranty so he did not work on it. I took off the front cover and nothing appeared wrong with the water valve physically.


I bought the control board online and I confirmed that with a volt meter it is getting 120 volts power to the board but I don't see any power coming from the board in any other connections.


Does the board control the start up steps of drain the maker then fill if needed or does the water value work independant of the control board?


based on the attached manual there are a few things that make this unit go to sleep. One is the thermastat, but does that shut off all power to the led's as well?


I'm trying to determine if it's my control board is bad or something else is overriding the control board and making the unit sleep.

There was a flash out that the water sensor made the unit got o sleep, but we illuminated that by unplugging it. The main control board is what send voltage to any device of the system. It is the brain. If you have voltage going in, but nothing coming out, it is very possible that the control is bad. You may want to verify that the ribbon cable to the display board is has good connections as well. It is puzzling why you do not have lights. I have never seen the display board go bad, and none of my tech buddies have as well. I am not saying that is not bad, but just do not have any experience to lead you that direction. If you control board is still under replacement warranty, you may try to return it for another one. You should be getting voltage to components. For no, I would be plugging the machine directly to the power outlet, bypassing the water pump below until you can get the unit running again. This way you can rule out the pump being the problem. But you should have lights if you hit the on button, as you always did. I hope this information helps. thanks again.
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