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Barry G.
Barry G., Home Appliance Technician
Category: Appliance
Satisfied Customers: 5578
Experience:  27 years in home appliance repair. EPA refrigerant transition and recovery certification type I & II.
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I have a Maytag Performa Regrigerator (Model PBF2253HEQ) that

Resolved Question:

I have a Maytag Performa Regrigerator (Model PBF2253HEQ) that is about 6-7 years old. A few weeks ago the refrigerator stopped cooling but the freezer continued to work. I noticed alot of ice built up on the inside back wall of the freezer where the coils are located. I also noticed the external coils on the bottom of the unit towards the floor were extremely dirty. I unplugged unit, cleaned all coils with shop vac. and allowed the unit to defrost with doors open. Several hours later I plugged in and both the refrigerator and freezer portion worked fine. This lasted for approximately 2 weeks until this morning. The refrigerator portion is warm but the freezer continues to work well. the rear of the freezer at coils appears frozen pretty good. Is there a defrost timer or something that may have gone out that creates an ice dam that prevents cold air from going to refrigerator? Your input would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.
Submitted: 11 months ago.
Category: Appliance
Expert:  Barry G. replied 11 months ago.
Hello my name is XXXXX XXXXX X will be assisting you.

Please give me just a couple of minutes to look over the diagrams for your model.

Thanks,
Barry
Customer: replied 11 months ago.

thanks, XXXXX XXXXX await your reply

Expert:  Barry G. replied 11 months ago.
Thanks for waiting Jamie. Are the freezer coils frosted over now?

Barry
Customer: replied 11 months ago.


Yes, I believe. I'm at work now and not at my residence to view but from what I saw earlier this morning I can see some ice behind the slots in the rear cover in the freezer. I cant tell exactly how bad it is without taking the cover off.

Expert:  Barry G. replied 11 months ago.
I understand, I have a document with a test that I need you to run. The freezer needs to be cold and the refrigerator on. Do you have access to the internet at home?

Barry
Customer: replied 11 months ago.


yes, I have access to internet at home


 

Expert:  Barry G. replied 11 months ago.
Okay save this page to your favorites or bookmarks. Email this page link home and when you can send me a message. If your going to be later than 8pm eastern time that is fine just let me know and I will be here. The reason is because there may be more to do, or you may find something unexpected and I would rather be available then to say this is what it is and you not be able to reach me.

Barry
Customer: replied 11 months ago.


Barry, I am driving home now and will contact you in about 30 minutes to further discuss my situation. I will save this page and get back with you shortly.


 


Thanks,

Expert:  Barry G. replied 11 months ago.
Great I will be here. Thank you!

Barry
Customer: replied 11 months ago.

Barry, I am home now and waiting for your directions.

Expert:  Barry G. replied 11 months ago.
With the refrigerator running, download and scroll because the first half of the page is blank. Follow the instructions to run the S test, not the L test. Leave the refrigerator doors closed once you have it set. The refrigerator should go off. Wait 5 minutes and open the freezer. Listen very close to the rear inside wall of the freezer. Can you hear a pop or a hiss every now and then?

CLICK HERE FOR TEST.


Thanks,
Barry
Customer: replied 11 months ago.


in process of waiting for 5 minutes

Expert:  Barry G. replied 11 months ago.
Thats okay, I know it takes time.

Barry
Customer: replied 11 months ago.


I just listened and the only small popping I hear is from the plastic on some of the food in the freezer. Should the popping and hissing be loud and obvious?

Expert:  Barry G. replied 11 months ago.
It can take longer if there is a lot of ice. There is a heater in there that gets hot and if there is a lot of ice it may take a bit before it turns to water and starts dripping on the heater.

Another way if its not to diffcult to get behind is to remove the rear panel at the lower rear. There you will see a tube and at the bottom of that tube if that heater is on it should be dripping water. Or we can wait, either way.

Barry
Customer: replied 11 months ago.


I am taking the rear cover off and will look for dripping water

Expert:  Barry G. replied 11 months ago.
Understood, its about a half inch piece of rubber or plastic tubing and it attaches directly to the bottom outside of the freezer floor and should be near the compressor.

Barry
Customer: replied 11 months ago.


I see a white hollow drain tube that is forward of the fan but behind the coils. It is directly over the drain pan. No water or moisture is apparent and the drain pan is completely dry. the manual defrost has been going on for approximately 25 minutes so far

Expert:  Barry G. replied 11 months ago.
Thank you Jamie, I am going to need a few minutes to look at the diagrams. Your refrigerator will start automatically. You will need to melt it out again to get it cooling in the fresh food part again.

Give me just a few.
Barry
Customer: replied 11 months ago.

so, to melt out now, I should unplug the entire unit and let it melt since defrost is not functioning? Actually, I can wait, I have a backup refigerator that I am currenlty using in my garage

Expert:  Barry G. replied 11 months ago.
Yes you will need to let it melt out to be sure its all clear. Then it will work again for about 2 weeks, yes it is not automatically defrosting. There are 2 parts that need to be checked. One is the heater, it is linked below and there is an image there at the website so you can see what it looks like.

If you have an ohm meter you can test the heater. The heater runs across the bottom of the freezer coils and up the sides. There are 2 wires. Disconnect both and set a meter to ohms. If you put one probe to each connector of that heater you are supposed to get a reading. Any reading at all is a good reading. No reading is a bad heater. The heater your refrigerator uses is linked below and there is an image there.

www.repairclinic.com/PartDetail/Defrost-Heater-Assembly/67001794/1022690?RCAID=1000064

The other part is not listed on the parts list but that is the defrost thermostat. One of the wires from the heater will be connected to it. Thats the easy way to locate it. This part must be cold to test. Frosty cold, same test if you get a reading in ohms its good no reading is bad. I have linked a similar thermostat below so you can see what one looks like. If that part is bad what you will have to do is take it to an appliance parts dealer and let them match one for you. There are a lot of aftermarket thermostats there will be several that will work fine.

http://www.repairclinic.com/PartDetail/Defrost-Thermostat/297216600/1483781


DRAWER
----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
1. Open drawer to fully open position.
2. Remove upper basket.
3. Remove screws one in each rail at the end of the rail.
4. Lift front of drawer up and out to remove drawer.
1. Remove screws inside plastic rail retainer.
2. Remove rails from retainer by depressing plastic tabs on back side of retainer.
3. Slide rails off of retainer.

Rack and Pinion Gear
1. Remove drawer assembly.
2. Extend drawer rails to full open position,remove rails
from retainer by depressing plastic tabs on back side
of retainer.
3. Slide rails, rack and pinion gear off of retainer.
4. Reverse procedure to reassemble.
---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------


If you have an ice maker that will need to be removed. There are usually 2 1/4 inch screws over the top of the ice maker and one underneath. Take those out and then follow the wire harness back to the rear inside wall and cut the zip tie if its there then unlock and pull to get the ice maker out.

Remove the parts with the red arrows in the diagram below to get to the freezer coils.

That will take care of it, please do not forget to rate my answer and ask if you have any questions by using the reply to expert link.

Thanks,
Barry

CLICK TO ENLARGE
graphic
Customer: replied 11 months ago.


I will try testing now

Expert:  Barry G. replied 11 months ago.
Thanks Jamie, no need to be in a hurry. I will be here all day, I take 5 minute breaks often so I will never be more than 5 minutes away, let me know how it goes.

Thanks,
Barry
Customer: replied 11 months ago.


i finished testing te heater, it tested 302 ohms resistance. the defrost themostat tested 1 on my digital multitester at warm temperature. I am cooling the freezer down now to test again. what do you think?

Expert:  Barry G. replied 11 months ago.

1 ohm for the thermostat or almost infinity? Yes test it cold.

 

 

What you may want to do then if its one ohm is follow the instructions again. Run it in S and be aware power is supposed to be present that the heater and thermostat connections. Set your meter to or above 120 volts ac and see if power is being sent there. Take your time and be careful, let me know when you can.

Thanks,
Barry

Customer: replied 11 months ago.


i just finished testing themostat cold and it reads 3 ohms. should I continue with voltage test?


 

Expert:  Barry G. replied 11 months ago.
Yes thats a good reading, let me know what you find. Just to be sure.

Thanks,
Barry
Customer: replied 11 months ago.


i just got my contacts in the harness for the defrost thermostat and it reads about 7 or 8 volts ac

Expert:  Barry G. replied 11 months ago.
Give me about 5 minutes Jamie. You can put everything back together. Including the rear cover if its off too. The problem will not be in the freezer or at the rear. I will be right back, I need to look something up.

Thanks,
Barry
Expert:  Barry G. replied 11 months ago.
I am sure glad you had a meter, it is rare that board fails in that manner. Usually it just blows altogether and nothing at all works. Below are the removal instructions and the part is linked below. That is the board that sends the power to the defrost.

CLICK HERE

I have linked the part below.

www.repairclinic.com/PartDetail/Main-Control-Board/12784415/1541423?RCAID=1000064


If you have any questions at all please ask.
Thanks,
Barry
Barry G., Home Appliance Technician
Category: Appliance
Satisfied Customers: 5578
Experience: 27 years in home appliance repair. EPA refrigerant transition and recovery certification type I & II.
Barry G. and 5 other Appliance Specialists are ready to help you
Customer: replied 11 months ago.


Hi Barry,


 


sorry I left our chat abruptly yesteday. I went ahead and did another continuity test on the heater and defrost timer and determined the defrost timer was bad. Since it was also by far the cheapest I replaced it and so far the unit seems to work. I did a manual defrost with the new thermostat and it worked last night. Previously manual defrost would not work with the old defrost timer. I am now observing the unit in regular mode to see if it freezes up again or defrosts propely. I am cautiously confident all is good. Thanks and I will go ahead and rate you now. Thanks again for your assistance.

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