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were you able to check the frost pattern on the evaporator coils?
Thanks for your intro and reply.
I have a copy of the tech service guide for this unit and reviewed the procedure for accessing the freezer evaporator before submitting my question to JA. There are three pages of disassembly instructions before a visual inspection of the evaporator is possible. By the time *I* get through all the steps the whole unit will probably be at room temperature and the frost will be long gone 8^).
Is the frost pattern the *only* way to diagnose my problem, or just the best way?
BTW, the current freezer temperature is 9 degrees and the compressor is running at <100% (line current = 1.2A). It appears that when the freezer is successfully cooling toward the setpoint (0 degrees) that it's loosing about 2 degrees per hour. If this is an acceptable cooling rate then it looks like it's been operating normally since my 100% run time test and refrigerator reset earlier this morning.
I appreciate your help!
1. Just to be clear, I used the "100% Run Time" test this morning as described in my original question. After the test timed out (1 hour) I did a "Refrigerator Reset" after which the compressor ran at a slower speed as indicated by the line current and noise level. It has continued to operate at less than 100% speed throughout the morning. I assume that the compressor has been operating continuously since it has not yet reached it's freezer set point temperature.
2. When the freezer door is open the freezer evaporator fan shuts off. According to the manual this is by design. I did test the fan using "Fan Speed Test" where each evaporator fan runs for 5 seconds and they both worked fine (see "already checked" in my original question).
3. The freezer evaporator is located in the freezer ceiling, not the back. Looking into the ice bucket door I see no frost or ice buildup on the ceiling or back wall.
4. The defrost heaters test OK (see "already checked" in my original question). This test is done by cycling the heaters on and measuring line current draw.
5. There has been no dripping water or icicles formed in the freezer section.
First of all, thank you for sticking with the diagnostic process. As you can tell it's a learning experience for me.
I closed the DC freezer door switch and the evaporator fan runs fine after the designed 10 second delay. BTW, I've checked heater and motor winding resistances as well as voltages, so I'm not just relying on the built in diagnostics. I appreciate your observation that information can be reported incorrectly.
The unit was built in August 2006, so it's getting a little long in the tooth. The good news is that it's still covered by GE's sealed system parts warranty, so it would only be the labor charge to keep it alive.
I'm going to go ahead and check the evaporator as soon as I find a place for the frozen food. I'll be back to you later on.
Upon further review I should probably get an expert in here. If you have the GE warranty number handy I'll give them a call.
Thanks again for all of the information and great advice!
Thanks for your help too!
Thank you for the positive rating. It is greatly appreciated.
I dont know why I hadn't seen your last message about the GE factory service warranty number until now. But it looks like Bryan jumped in and gave it to you.Thanks Bryan.
If the numbers Bryan directed you to don't work for your area here is a number that should. 1-800-432-2737
It is definitely going to be a good idea to let a GE authorized servicer look at the machine. This way they will be able to better tell what is wrong with the machine. And since it is under warranty it will not cost anything to get them out to look for you. And after they give you their labor estimate for the job you can decide if you want the job done or not?
Should you have any other questions please feel free to get back to me here and I will help you more for no additional charge.
Thanks again. And please let me know how everything turns out for you.