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motor starts and drum spins but I do not hear the flame start or see it light
Let me try that. Can I get to it without removing other parts?
Ok I see there are 3 nuts to remove the housing so I will try that first and see if I can get to fuse. Ok housing moved and I was able to remove both leads. Tape together and plug back in and try again?
Not heating. Ran for about 1 minute or two, then clicked 3 times and stopped spinning
Sorry, I could not see anything light up
what number on drawing?
those two wires have plastic ends it appears. I have not tried to remove them yet
I will remove them and try using a paper clip
Did that and still that same result (no light, 3 clicks and it stops)
I moved it to 50 minutes Timed Dry but ran for a bit and then stopped.
Still no heat.
Motor sounds normal
Not sure about motor stopping because I just started it and left before I could tell if it would stop
Is that the box or what goes into the tube?
Let me go look and see if I can tell
so should the tips of it go into the tube? Mine appear to be bent in a 90 degree angle
sorry, not too good with my iPhone camera. Help any?
so it would be best if I remove the one screw that holds it into place and pull it out to look at it?
Ok. It is almost midnight here in Houston. It is getting too late for you?
I will go try this last thing I guess.
Kelly, that screw is at a right angle and I am having trouble getting a clean grasp of it. My laudry room floor is a mess so I am limited in space.
Is there a way to pick this up again tomorrow?
You have been a trooper.
What should the meter's capabilities be?
how do I reach back to you directly?
How do we end this and you get paid for it?
ok, tomorrow or Tuesday.
Happy Late Easter to you.
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Hey, Kelly I am back. The two fuses are still out of the loop and I have removed the ignitor. Since our last chat I did get a multimeter and a new ignitor has come in (but not installed).
What should I try first?
I seemed to have lost you.
I can sure try. Help me with the meter. what marking should I be looking for?
V with a squiggly line over over it then a 500 setting or 200. point to the 200?
sorry, took longer than I thought. Outlet showed 120 but the connection for the ignitor never showed anything while the dryer was running
No, sorry I reconnected them fuses. Disconnect them and tie the wires together?
I tested the one numbered 42 and it failed the test. Display did not change.
still no power to ignitor
Could not find the tape. Connected with paper clip so let me double check it.
clipped and taped it and still no voltage on ignitor connection
Sorry to hear about the power lose. I am at work so can not look at this time. What number are the motor and thermostat in one of the drawings you sent earlier? I can look tonight.
thanks.chat later this evening.
I am back. Looking for the red wire from the Motor switch.
Ok, just be sure. The switch/fuse I have skipped has a red wire and a white wire that head towards the motor and meets up with more wires. NEXT to that skipped switch/fuse is another one with 2 red wires.
Ok, I will try that now.
tried it with one red wire and the frame of the washer and got nothing on the meter
Kelly, I am at work now. Might you be available this evening say 6pm your time?
I hope all is well/better for your wife. Chat this evening.
Well, now it is Thursday evening but I am ready again.
You said: Can you turn the timer to a heat position and test the red wire right at the timer for 120 VAC to ground, please?
Is that inside the top part of dryer?
So do I put everything back under neath or leave as is?
so do I remove the whole panel (screws on back) and then remove the end caps?
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ok, all that is done and panel is flipped backwards to expose the timer, circuit board and other wires.
So the timer is item 3?
put on heat setting and started dryer. put one lead of meter into connection with red wire and the other lead to a screw on top of dryer. display changed from 00.0 to 00.7. Not good?
WAIT!! I did not have it on the heat setting. Tried it again and now it shows voltage
Do I need to remove the wires from fuses to test the wires?
Test each side of fuse?
Nothing on white wire to fuse 42 and only 6.7 amps on red wire. Nothing on either wire for item 59. Now test fuse 43?
I set the timer to heat cycle before testing each red wire with one probe and other probe on the metal. Red wire on fuse 42 only showed 6.7 amps. Red wire on other fuse #59 showed 00.0.
I believe I can. I tested the blue and black wires coming out of the timer that head "South" and those had 120 amps.
Does that require the removal of the back of the dryer?
ok, that will require a little repositioning in my laundry room so I will pick this back up tomorrow during the day. Is there a different diagram from Sears that would show the path of the wiring from timer to bottom?
well, the back is actually part of the sides also. Looks like I need to remove the front panel instead. off to try that.
unfortunately, when I took all the screws off the back, the part holding the dryer drum has now dropped out of place. sometime you learn the hard way.
so I have removed the 2 screws on the top (right and left) and now will remove the 2 on the bottom (right and left). Then remove the front panel and pull the drum out?
too late on the picture of the belt. sorry. I did notice it was around the middle of the drum but what it did underneath, not so sure.
so back to our original plan, I need to find the wires coming from the timer and see where they go first in the bottom and test for 120?
might take a picture of that area and send it your way on one of the next replys
sorry, lost connection there.
red wire from timer goes to circuit board first. tried to send picture but it errors out
red wire from timer goes to circuit board. Out of curcuit board to black 4 connector (2 in and 2 out) box (items 37 [power relay] and 33 [temperture select]). 2 in connectors to power relay show 120 but only one out of power relay shows 120. might this be the problem?
I replaced the power relay #37 but same results. Power going in but only power coming out to one red wire
the high limit thermostat has no continuity. the flame sensor and thermal fuse DO have continuity.
I may be reaching here but just trying many things while you are away.
no, do I need to check the back?
See my last few comments on continuity.
off to run an errand.
ok, will replace the high limit.
So the circuit board does not show any burn marks on one side. I will check the back side tomorrow.
I am at work now and have not looked at the back of the curcuit board yet. I have a meeting tonight so limited time then.
Might you be available during the day tomorrow (Tuesday)?
Ok, I will get with you tomorrow after 8am CST
Good morning. I checked both sides of the circuit board and do not see any burned or discolored parts.
nope. have not gone to get it yet.
I can run get it locally hopefully. Sear Parts opens at 9am.
Once it is replaced, what should I test first?
That is where I am confused. The only red wires heading to the fuses, comes out of a replay next to the circuit board.
The only wires from the timer console that go directly down to the bottom are blue and black and they seem to go to the motor at the bottom.
I am trying to send you a picture but it does not work.
they appear to go the black relay to the right of the circuit board
sent the pictures just now
let me know when you get the pictures so I can explain the wires better.
Bummer.. Ok, let me try to follow the red wires from the fuses in the bottom up to the area of the timer, circuit board and relays. Can I use the continuity test to confirm each end of a wire?
ok, red wire from relay to Thermal fuse had continuity. Red wire from Thermal fuse to high limit thermostat had continuity.
Replace high limite thermostat now?
I need to go get the high limit thermostat and will let you know.
Went to one local Sears Parts and they did not have it. Will need to another one later. Bummer
ok, back again. I am going to install the new high limit thermostat and all the other items I removed. Turn the gas back on and plug the power back in.
Do I just turn it to heat setting or also start the dryer?
Darn. Nothing happened. The timer started clicking like it was counting down but when I pushed the start button, nothing. Even the clicking of the timer stopped.
Yes, all the wires are attached to the fuses and the thermostat.
120 still coming out of timer and getting to relay.
yes, I checked that. Originally, it was not. It is now.
No difference (worth a try). Starting to wonder if the amateur on this end (me) is the problem in solving this thing.
seems that we have gone in circles. I have to take the door assemply off to get to the bottom wires and such. it is easy to put back on and reconnect as needed.
Back to testing for voltage on fuses and thermostat?
so what do you suggest I do next?
Board with the heat?
so what should I do next?
Pretty sure. Back at work so I will check this evening sometime.
While my company does literature fulfillment, public awareness mailing and supply chain management, I am over Customer Service.
Kelly, I am at work but leaving soon. You available this evening?
good evening. all the connections in the bottom are still together. The connection to the door is still connected.
Any way to test the timer with meter?
It is very sporatic
Hey, I got the new timer installed. Plugged unit back in and turned the timer to 80 minutes.
Still no 120 from red wire. What next?