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Tyler Z.
Tyler Z., Appliance Doc
Category: Appliance
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Experience:  7+ years being an appliance technician with factory training.
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I have a Maytag Gemini Dual oven Range (GAS) and in the last

Resolved Question:

I have a Maytag Gemini Dual oven Range (GAS) and in the last couple of days both ovens have decided not to heat. Model M6772BDS Serial 12513633CL

I have pulled the cover off of the burner in the upper oven, and the heat spreader so I can see the lighter element. It does not seem to get activated when I turn the oven on. Tested with the door on and closed.

I have set the controls to facory defaults, in case something was confused, but as we have not changed any of them anyway, I doubt that was part of the issue.

I tried heating the element with a propane torch after turning the oven on to 350, nothing happened that I could see. It is certain I did not get fire, but the door was "open" as I had not taped the switch closed.

Warming the thermocouple resulted in a indicated temperature change on the display.

What should I be looking for next
Submitted: 1 year ago.
Category: Appliance
Expert:  Tyler Z. replied 1 year ago.
Hello, and thank you for using this service. I'll be helping you with your problem today.

Have you tried broil and bake on both ovens? If not, try both options on both ovens for 5 minutes each and tell me if the oven will heat at all on either oven. Also, does the cooktop still work?

Customer: replied 1 year ago.

all burners all work. otherwise I would be checking for gas issues and probably blaming the regulator since the gas water heater is still hot.


 


Both ovens fail to heat on bake, Upper does not light the broiler. Lower on this model does not have a broiler.


It is my understanding on this model that the broiler doe not work independently, or until the oven is up to set temperature. This is a software decision by the mfg that I disagree with, one cannot toast the top of a bagel in this oven.


 


 

Expert:  Tyler Z. replied 1 year ago.
So you're exactly right, about how the broil works, I just wanted to make sure nothing was heating.

So that being said, lets just deal with the bottom oven for now. First thing I want you to do is unplug the oven for 60 seconds and plug it back in. Remove the floor inside the lower oven and shut the door. Try to turn on the bake for the lower oven. Does it heat at all? If you open the door after a few minutes do you see the igniter glowing below the floor you removed?

Also, if needed---do you have a multimeter to do voltage tests?

Expert:  Tyler Z. replied 1 year ago.
are you still with me?
Customer: replied 1 year ago.

yes, the msg got lost I guess


 


 


unplug replug got me a message about power LOC and required a clock reset,


 


After that turning the oven on still had an oven igniter module that was cold to the touch


 


 

Expert:  Tyler Z. replied 1 year ago.
OK so you were able to reset the clock and try another cycle correct? It just wouldn't heat? The display shows something like 120 degrees or something like that?

Customer: replied 1 year ago.

display shows 100, setting is 350 (auto)


and yes I have a meter, I will probably not need the surface mount probes and can use an automotive grade one, 2.5 digits should be enough

Expert:  Tyler Z. replied 1 year ago.
OK so the next thing to do is pull the oven out and remove the screws going into the back panel. Locate the 2 wires going to the lower oven bake element. disconnect the 2 wires to the igniter and test between the 2 wires supplying power to the igniter. Do you have 120 volts between the 2 wires? If not, test power from one wire to ground (case of the oven) and do you have 120 volts on either wire?

Customer: replied 1 year ago.

what should the resistance of the module be?

Expert:  Tyler Z. replied 1 year ago.
don't worry about that, it's not really a valid test---just do the tests I mentioned.
Customer: replied 1 year ago.

Both the Igniters seem to have failed, both are getting voltage and no heat.


Both are also open circuits at this time. Broiler element shows 140 ohm which seems to be a bit high, might be 100 watts output, But I do not know the system specs.


 


Since the schematic shows them in series with the valves, this would also prevent manual lighting.


 


With both of them failing within a couple of days, I would have expected this to be a known issue with the whirlpool/maytag product line.


 

Expert:  Tyler Z. replied 1 year ago.
You are correct, you can not manually light the burners. But if you're definitely getting 120 volts between the 2 wires going to the igniter and the igniter isn't glowing, you need to replace the igniter. There is no "known issue" on these units, but igniters generally last only about 6-8 years under normal use before needing to be replaced. Either way, you can order new igniters at Repairclinic.com or Searspartsdirect.com if you'd like.

Tyler Z., Appliance Doc
Category: Appliance
Satisfied Customers: 56654
Experience: 7+ years being an appliance technician with factory training.
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