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Jon
Jon, Appliance Technician
Category: Appliance
Satisfied Customers: 3456
Experience:  Appliance Service Technician with 10+ years experience.
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PRG364DUS/01 Oven and Griddle dont work. Cooktop burners

Customer Question

PRG364DUS/01
Oven and Griddle don't work. Cooktop burners work fine.
Submitted: 1 year ago.
Category: Appliance
Expert:  The Home Smithy replied 1 year ago.

Hi. I'm Smitty. I am a professional appliance repair consultant here to help you diagnose, and repair, your appliance.

Please stand by while I look up your model number.

Thank you.

Customer: replied 1 year ago.


OK

Expert:  The Home Smithy replied 1 year ago.
I have the service manual for your particular unit downloaded. Please allow me some time to look into your specific problem. Shouldnt be more than about 10 minuets.
Thank you.
Customer: replied 1 year ago.
Ok
Expert:  The Home Smithy replied 1 year ago.
Sorry for the wait. I need to know if the oven light works. It is on the same circuit as both igniters.
Customer: replied 1 year ago.
Yes it works
Customer: replied 1 year ago.
Yes
Customer: replied 1 year ago.


I've answered this 3 times. The light works.


 

Expert:  The Home Smithy replied 1 year ago.

Thank you Vince. I was with another customer. Sorry about the delay.

Okay, due to the complexity of these units it is going to take a while for me to provide instructions, screen shots from the manual, parts refrences, etc.

Or, if you are handy with repairs around the house I can upload the wire diagram and service manual for you to do the repair that way.

Please advise.

Thank you..

Customer: replied 1 year ago.
Can u send it by email. I am a lite handy , but it appears the oven and griddle are not getting any gas.
Expert:  The Home Smithy replied 1 year ago.

Please click here to download the manual

And click here for the schematic.

I am here to help you if you need it. These units can be a real pain sometimes. Dont be afraid to come back and ask questions.

Please let me know if you have any other concerns.
If not please select a positive rating at this time. Doing so will not close your question, and after you rate my service you may ask any followup questions you like. All at no additional charge.

Thank you.

Customer: replied 1 year ago.


He basically downloaded a service manual. He didn't tell me how to fix my problem.

Expert:  The Home Smithy replied 1 year ago.

I gave you two options. To have me type it all up for you, or for me to provide you the manual. You chose to receive the manual. That is not poor service!

Do you want me to type it up for you (the diagnostics and repair procedures)?

FYI:
I did not just download the manual from the internet. I downloaded the manual from the tech site which I happen to pay a large sum of money for the subscription to.

Customer: replied 1 year ago.
Sorry to have offended you, but if you are not familiar with this problem please refer me to someone else or help me try to fix it.
Expert:  The Home Smithy replied 1 year ago.

I will be happy to help you. Please allow me an hour to get it all together and type it up for you.

Thank you.

Expert:  The Home Smithy replied 1 year ago.
Vincew I am sorry but I have a family emergency that I must attend to. I will opt out so another expert can help you.
Sorry for the inconvenience.
If no one replys to you before I return I will post the information ASAP.
Expert:  Jon replied 1 year ago.
Hello Vince,

My name is XXXXX XXXXX X am an authorized Bosch, Thermador and Gaggenau service tech and I can help you today.

This is a very common problem with this model and style machine.

If the top surface burners are working and lighting fine then that means the gas is fine to the machine as well as the gas regulator.

Now I would like for you to do one simple check for me. This will Involve removing the bottom bake plate to the oven to visually inspect the bake igniter. The remove the griddle or the drip tray under the griddle to visually inspect the griddle igniter.

In most cases when either the oven or griddle doesn't light it is usually due to a worn or damaged igniter. And on these machines if the igniter cant pull in at least 3.3 amps then the gas valve that lets gas get to the burner to ignite will not open. Which would lead you to believe the gas valve is not opening.

So I would first and most simply like for you to turn on the bake cycle at about 350 degrees for the bake in the oven and visually look at the igniter. Does it glow cherry red? Or better yet, if you have a clam on meter with amperage check on it, clamp it around one of the wires to the igniter and check the amperage to the igniter. If it is more then 3.3 then the igniter should glow cherry red in about 10 seconds. and should let the gas valve open and then light the burner.

Now if the igniter doesnt get to about 3.3 amps or if you dont have a clamp on amp meter, then if the igniter doesnt get cherry red and glows a soft orange, then we know the igniter is bad. And will need to replaced.

Do this for the griddle igniter as well. It is the same procedure.

If you need to change the igniters the part number is XXXXX for the bake igniter. and should cost about $90.

And the griddle and grill igniters are part number 487542 and should cost about $160.

All the parts above can be ordered at either www.repairclinic.com or www.marcone.com or your local appliance parts store nearest you.

If you have any other questions please get back to me here and I will help you more. And if you run the checks on the igniter and find they are bad then just order the igniters and replace them. And please remember to rate my performance positively below by rating me with at least ok service or better rating below.

And if you still have more questions please feel free to get back to me here and I will help you more for no additional charge.

Thanks.
Customer: replied 1 year ago.

The ignitor to the griddle does get cherry red. I am not at home at the present and will not be able to check the bake ingitor until tomorrow.


 


If the ignitor works, then what could the problem be?

Expert:  Jon replied 1 year ago.
If the igniters are not the problem then the only other parts that would cause this are the thermostats and gas valves.

But please check the igniter when you can. 9 times out of 10 it is the igniters. Especially if they are a few years old and have not been replaced yet.

Get back to me here and let me know what you find. And if you have more questions I will help you more.
Customer: replied 1 year ago.


I will try to get back to you tomorrow.

Expert:  Jon replied 1 year ago.
Ok. I'll be here for you. Even if it says I am offline please just respond back to me as you normally would. I will get a message saying you have logged on and posted a reply and I will log in and respond back to you as quickly as possible.

Again, please look to see how hot the igniter is getting or glowing. And if you have a clamp on meter take an amperage reading on the igniter. It should be a out 3 amps. If it is not drawing in that much amperage then you have a bad igniter. If you are getting about 3 amps to the igniter and still the flame doesnt come on then I would advise checking voltage to the oven gas valve.

In the back bottom of the machine will be the gas valve and two wires running to it. With power off to the machine remove the wires and take a continuity or ohm reading. If using ohms it should read 0 if continuity you will have continuity. Again removing the wires from the valve and testing the terminals on the valve. If you would like you can also check voltage to the valve while in a bake cycle.

With power on and machine set to a bake cycle and wires to the gas valve back on, take a voltage reading with your meter. If you have 120 volts to the gas valve and the igniter comes on and has over 3 amps but still the gas valve doesn't open to let gas come in then you have a bad gas valve.

If no voltage to the gas valve check the wiring.

Run those checks and get back to me here with what you find and I will help you more.

Thanks again. Talk to you tomorrow.
Customer: replied 1 year ago.


I will try to do those things tomorrow. Then I will get back to you.

Expert:  Jon replied 1 year ago.
Ok. Talk to you tomorrow.
Jon, Appliance Technician
Category: Appliance
Satisfied Customers: 3456
Experience: Appliance Service Technician with 10+ years experience.
Jon and 6 other Appliance Specialists are ready to help you
Expert:  Jon replied 1 year ago.
Thank you for the positive rating. It is greatly appreciated.
Should you have any other questions or concerns please get back to me here and I will help you more for no additional charge.

And please let me know how the checks work out for you.

Thanks again.
Customer: replied 1 year ago.
Having trouble getting the bottom tray out of oven to check the igniter.
Expert:  Jon replied 1 year ago.
Hello again,

were exactly are you getting stuck with removing the lower oven plate to expose the igniters?

Did you remove the screws in the back of the inside of the oven on the bake plate yet? If not, then you would need to do that first.

Now on some model ovens there is no screws to remove on the bake plate. It just simply lifts up from the back and then gets pulled out.

Please let me know where you are at and I will help you more.

Thanks.
Customer: replied 1 year ago.


I will take ouut the plate to the oven tomorrow and inspect the ignitor. Have to work today and toniight.

Expert:  Jon replied 1 year ago.
You got it. Just get back to me here when you have a chance and let me know what you find.
Customer: replied 1 year ago.

The screws that hold the bake plate are in the front. You have to take the door off to take those screws out.


The 4 range burners do light properly.


The ignitor to the griddle works but it does not light.


The ignitor to the broiler works but it does not light.


I can ot tell about the oven ignitor without taking the door off.


 


It would not be logical that it is an ignitor problem, unless if one is out there is no gas flow to all. It seems there is no gas to the oven, broiler, and griddle.

Expert:  Jon replied 1 year ago.
I know you said the igniters are lighting and glowing and that is good. Which also means the thermostats and controls are doing what they should and send power to the igniters. But it is possible for the igniter to glow and come on but not glow hot enough. And if it doesn't get hot enough the gas valve will not let gas into the oven or to the griddle to light.

I would change the igniters and that will fix your problem. I see this a lot. At least once or twice a week. And again if the igniters glow but yet don't light the. You have worn igniters and they need to be replaced. And usually will need to be replaced about on e every three years. And if you bake more then you broil like most people you will end up going through bake igniters more then broil or griddle igniters.

Please get back to me here if you have more questions and I will continue helping you. And if you feel that I have helped to answer your questions please remember to rate my performance positively with ok service or better rating below this chat now. And if you need to get back to me and have more questions it will not close the chat after rating positively. You can come back here at any time and ask other questions and I will help you more for no additional charge.

Thanks again.
Customer: replied 1 year ago.

To replace all the ignitors would cost $410 using your estimate for cost. And I am not sure that is the problem.

Expert:  Jon replied 1 year ago.
That sounds about right. Just change the bake and griddle igniters. They are expensive because it is a Thermador.

If the igniters glow that is the problem.
Expert:  Jon replied 1 year ago.
If you are un sure about the repair that is why I told you to check the amperage to the igniters and the voltage to the gas valve. If you have full 3.3 amps to the igniter then the igniter is good. And in that case change the valve. If less then 3.3 amps to the igniter change the igniter.
Customer: replied 1 year ago.


I appears the thermostat for the griddle is bad. The copper wire is broken. I have ordered the new thermostat, and got it yesterday. Any advice on replacing the thermostat?

Expert:  Jon replied 1 year ago.
Hello again.

I thought you said in a previous post that the igniter for the griddle was glowing cherry red? If the thermostat capillary tube, the tube that is copper or metal that is broken, then the igniter should not have come on at all.

Are you giving me the most accurate information here?

It is very important that you follow my directions and advise as it will only help us to solve the problem with your machine in a quicker and easier manner. If you are not willing to do that that is fine but I will not continue helping you.

Now, if the igniter is glowing for the griddle but it is not letting the gas valve open to let the gas come in then I want for you to measure the amperage to the griddle igniter. It should be around 3.3 amps. If it is aching other then that replace the igniter. It is just that simple.

As for the griddle thermostat, you will need to remove the top griddle and burners grates and drip pans to gain access to the thermostat for the griddle. Then remove the griddle knob and remove the screws holding the griddle thermostat to the front control panel.

Now turn the power off to the unit and remove the thermostat front he control panel. Ether take a picture of the wiring or write down the placement so you know where it will go on the new thermostat. Then remove the clamp holding the capillary tube to the thermostat and remove the whole thermostat from the machine.

The just replace with the new one and wire it in as the other was and close the whole machine up again. The test the griddle out. If the igniter glows then you know the thermostat was installed correctly. But if it the griddle still doesn't ignite then you have to replace the griddle igniter.

If you need more help please get back to me here and I will help you more.

Thanks again.
Customer: replied 1 year ago.

Griddle: I took the griddle off and found that the thermostat (copper wire) was completely broken. However, the igniter glows and the burner lights. The igniter stays on, I assume that is a function of the thermostat, it must shut off the igniter after the burner gets hot. .


 


I have a new thermostat and plan to install it this week.


 


Broiler: Igniter glows but only shows 2.9-3.0 amps. It does not light


 


Oven: Igniter also shows only about 2.8-3.1 amps. It does not light.


 


I have new igniters for the broilers and oven. I have followed your instructions, but it seems there is a little more to it than the igniters, at least for the griddle.


 

Expert:  Jon replied 1 year ago.
Ok. so for the griddle, first the igniter will stay lit and so will the flame of the burner until the griddle reaches temperature that you have set it for. So if the igniter and burner flame is staying on then the griddle has never reached temp. That is where the thermostat comes into play. If the capillary tube, the metal wire, of the thermostat has been broken or damaged in any way then the thermostat cant accurately gauge what the temp of the griddle is. That capillary tube is actually filed with the liquid that would monitor the temp just like a thermometer. So as mercury would rise and gauge the temp in a thermometer, the liquid inside the capillary tube of the thermostat would rise up and pass through the thermostat and turn it off when temp is reached.
So if the capillary tube is broken then the thermostat will never accurately gauge what the temp is int he griddle.

As far as for the bake and broil igniters, if they are never reaching the appropriate amperage then they will never let the gas valve open and let the gas come into the burners to light.

And you will need to replace the igniters.

When you have access to the igniters you will notice they are screwed into the burner tubes where the gas flame will light. so just remove the screws to the igniters from the burner tube and replace with the new igniters. Then cut and splice out the wires that run to the control and to the gas valve. just cut and splice in the new wires or if they have come with the connectors already attached just replace them exactly as they are in your machine.

It is just that easy. but if it is giving you a lot of trouble replacing the igniters it may help to remove the screws to the burner tubes and remove the whole burner tube and igniter with it. This will allow you easier access and a lot more room to work on the igniters.

Please try that and get back to me here and let me know if you need more help and I will help you more.

Thanks.
Customer: replied 1 year ago.


Griddle: I have installed the new thermostat and the griddle burner now appears to work fine.


 


Oven: I have installed the new igniter, and it gets red hot, but the burner still does not light.


 


Broiler: Have not changed that igniter yet, since oven did not light after igniter replaced...plus I ran out of time last night.


 


So, The cooktop burners work fine, The griddle now works fine. The oven and Broiler will not light.


 


Your thoughts?

Expert:  Jon replied 1 year ago.
If the bake is still not working then I would check to make sure you have voltage to the gas valve. In a bake cycle you should have 110 volts. If you don't it will not open the gas valve and let gas come in.
If you do have voltage and you don't smell has or the gas is not coming into the bake burner then you have a bad burner valve/ gas valve.
Customer: replied 1 year ago.

You were correct. I checked the amps on all of the ignitors, and they were all low( less than 3 amps.). My mistake after replacing the ignitors was not waiting longe enough to see if the bake would light. It takes about a minute. I have replaced all three now: the griddle, the bake/oven, and the broiler ignitors. They all seem to work properly now.


I will send the dual gas safety valve back, as the original seems to be working fine.


 


So I am nearly done, but have had difficulty getting the door back in. I have replaced the hinges, but in trying to get the door back in have damaged the hinge supports. So I have ordered new hinge supports. Replacing the door seems to be little tricky. I have looked at a couple of videos, but am worried I might damage the new hinge supports or hinges themselves when I try again. Any suggestions?

Expert:  Jon replied 1 year ago.
I am glad you were able to change the igniters and have the machine back to normal working order. In that kind of complaint the igniters are the first thing and most common part to go.

As far as for the door and hinges just make sure the door hinges are in a half open position with the lock engaged or the door will not fit into the hinge receiver correctly. And this will make the door not sit properly and give you problems when you go to close the door.

So first make sure you look at the hinges on the door and make sure they are in the half open position and locked. Then hold the door upright and fit back into the oven receivers. You should feel the oven door hinges lock into and fit into place. If you don't feel that just try it again.

That is about all it should take. If you have trouble again just get back to me here and I will help you more.

And please remember to rate my performance positively below this chat now for the help I have given you for helping you repair the oven not lighting issues. And if you have more questions again just come back to me here again and I will help you more for no additional charge.

Thanks again.

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