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Appliance Man
Appliance Man, Home Appliance Technician
Category: Appliance
Satisfied Customers: 9879
Experience:  Appliance tech 4 years
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Customer Question

Maytag Bravos dryer model MEDB850WQ0, error code F31. Diagnostic says I'm only getting 120 vAC but I measured 220+ at the outlet and where the cord attaches in the dryer. I've replaced the thermal fuse, thermal cut-off, thermistor, and control board. I've visually inspected the heating element. The problem persists and I'm stumped.
Submitted: 1 year ago.
Category: Appliance
Expert:  Appliance Man replied 1 year ago.
Hello. Thank you for choosing Just Answer. I will be helping you with your question today.

I just looked up the tech sheet and f31 is a code that only deals with line voltage. Test where the cord connects to the dryer. Test the out side wire to the outside wire. What is your reading. Test the middle wire to one out side wire. What is your reading. Yest the other out side wire to the middle. What is your reading?
Customer: replied 1 year ago.

Outside to outside toggles between 246 & 247. Both the left and the right outside to middle toggle between 122 and 123.

Expert:  Appliance Man replied 1 year ago.
Ok now access the control board and test the red wire on the heater relay to the middle wire where the cord connects to the dryer. What reading do you get?
Customer: replied 1 year ago.

I get zero on the red. I also tested the black to middle and am getting 120.

Expert:  Appliance Man replied 1 year ago.
Ok then you are not getting l2 to the control board. You either have a bad heating element, high limit thermostat or thermal cutoff. Looks like you replace the cutoff so I would check the high limit thermostat. It is located on the side of heater canister. If that is closed then check the element for continuity.
Customer: replied 1 year ago.

I've inspected the heating element and it looks fine. The thermostat was the one part I was having trouble finding in stock so that's no doubt the bad part (Murphy's law). Thanks much for your help.

Expert:  Appliance Man replied 1 year ago.
Your welcome. Take care.
Appliance Man, Home Appliance Technician
Category: Appliance
Satisfied Customers: 9879
Experience: Appliance tech 4 years
Appliance Man and 2 other Appliance Specialists are ready to help you
Customer: replied 1 year ago.

Just realized I'm not sure how to check the thermostat. It has 3 connectors, 2 large gauge (red and black) connectors and a small harness connector. I get continuity between the large connector prongs but I'm not sure how to test for open. Can you walk me through what I should be checking? Thanks!

Expert:  Appliance Man replied 1 year ago.
On my wiring diagram it shows only 2 wires. A black wire to a red wire with a white stripe.
Customer: replied 1 year ago.

There's a small collar around the thermostat with a connector for a small harness and what looks like a probe. This link will take you to some photos...


 


https://w ww.google.com/search?q=whirlpool+8557403&oe=utf-8&aq=t&rls=org.mozilla:en-US:official&client=firefox-a&um=1&ie=UTF-8&hl=en&tbm=isch&source=og&sa=N&tab=wi&ei=quEfUcf5CvP7yAGAjoGgDA&biw=1393&bih=876&sei=rOEfUf6SG4qxygGh4YDIAg

Expert:  Appliance Man replied 1 year ago.
That link didn't work. It should look like this. CLICK HERE
Customer: replied 1 year ago.

Yes it does. I get continuity between the large connectors but what other tests should I run?


 

Expert:  Appliance Man replied 1 year ago.
Then that is good. Did you replace these parts. CLICK HERE
Customer: replied 1 year ago.

I replaced the part on the right but although I have a new one, I don't see the part on the left anywhere in the dryer. Any idea where it's located?

Expert:  Appliance Man replied 1 year ago.
You need to replace both of them. I believe that one is on the exhaust housing and the other is on the heater canister.
Customer: replied 1 year ago.

Thanks, XXXXX XXXXX see if I can locate it.


 

Expert:  Appliance Man replied 1 year ago.
ok.
Customer: replied 1 year ago.

I've examined the unit from top to bottom and this part (#3391914) is nowhere to be found nor is in the parts list for the unit. Could that collar on part #8557403 serve the same function?

Expert:  Appliance Man replied 1 year ago.
It might. I would replace the high limit thermostat.
Customer: replied 1 year ago.

Okay thanks. I've only found one in town so I'd better run to get it. Can I contact you again if I'm still having problem after I install the part?

Expert:  Appliance Man replied 1 year ago.
yes just reply back.
Customer: replied 1 year ago.

Replaced the thermostat but there's no improvement.

Expert:  Appliance Man replied 1 year ago.
The only other part L2 goes through is the motor.
Customer: replied 1 year ago.

Since I'm sure that's not an inexpensive part, though none of them have been so far, is there any way to positively determine that the motor is the source of the fault? And can that be done while it's all disassembled so I have access to it?

Expert:  Appliance Man replied 1 year ago.
The only thing you can do is start following the red wire from the terminal block and see where you loose the 110 volts.
Customer: replied 1 year ago.

What state does the dryer need to in while I'm doing this? If it need to be running I won't have access to very much of the wiring. Can I do this with the drum removed?

Customer: replied 1 year ago.

With the front off and the drum out I can verify the motor is receiving 125 but I can't verify it's outputting 125 because I can't start it. Any suggestions?

Expert:  Michelle-Mod replied 1 year ago.

Hello,

It seems the professional has left this conversation. This happens occasionally, and it's usually because the professional thinks that someone else might be a better match for your question. I've been working hard to find a new professional to assist you with your question, but sometimes finding the right professional can take a little longer than expected.

I wonder whether you're OK with continuing to wait for an answer. If you are, please let me know and I will continue my search. If not, feel free to let me know and I will cancel this question for you.

Thank you!

Michelle

Customer: replied 1 year ago.

Thanks Michelle. I'm okay waiting for now. I'd sure prefer to fix the 2.5 year old dryer instead of buying a new one.

Expert:  Michelle-Mod replied 1 year ago.
Hello,

We will continue to look for a Professional to assist you.

Thank you for your patience,
Michelle
Expert:  Randy replied 1 year ago.
Hello, my name is XXXXX XXXXX I am here to assist you if still needed. If so can you reread the voltages and tell me what you get for a reading?
Customer: replied 1 year ago.

Randy,


 


Please tell me which read points you're interested in and I'll get the measurements to best of my ability. Thanks!

Expert:  Randy replied 1 year ago.
Where the cord attach's to the dryer is what I am wondering. Read the left to center and then the right to center and then left to right.
Customer: replied 1 year ago.

Randy,


 


I'm at work at the moment but the last readings I took were 122/123 from each side to center and 244/245 from side to side.

Expert:  Randy replied 1 year ago.
Okay, and that was at the dryer? Also, does the dryer come on at all?
Customer: replied 1 year ago.

Everything seems to work EXCEPT the heat.

Expert:  Randy replied 1 year ago.
Okay, you have a voltmeter obviously. With the circuit breaker off to the dryer, gain access to the heating element and disconnect the 2 wires going in to the heating element. Then connect your meter to the 2 wires and now turn the dryer back on and see if you get 220vac. If so then you have a bad heating element, if not then what does the voltage read? Also, if you checked the thermistor what reading in ohms did you get?
Customer: replied 1 year ago.

Randy,


 


This is where I get stuck, to gain access to any of the heating system I have to remove the drum. Once I've removed the drum there seems to be switches that prevent the motor from running, the heat coming on, etc. I'm guessing there's a test fixture of some sort that inserts between the main harness and the motor that allows for testing the rest of the system. I don't have one of those so I don't seem able to rout power throughout the system.

Expert:  Randy replied 1 year ago.
I understand now and now I need you to do 2 things. Since you will have to take it apart and will have no power then go ahead and check the resistance on the thermistor (if you haven't replaced it yet) and still disconnect the wires to the heating element but now check for continuity on the heating element itself. Sometimes they may look good but will still be bad.
Expert:  Randy replied 1 year ago.
One other thing have you tried the dryer in any other heated mode. Does it do it in only auto mode or does it do it in auto and timed dry mode?
Expert:  Randy replied 1 year ago.
I am going out right now for my youngest grandsons' birthday party but I promise I will be back on later tonight and we will work this out.
Customer: replied 1 year ago.

Yes, we tried it in several modes; all without any sign of heat.

Customer: replied 1 year ago.

Have fun and thanks for your help!

Customer: replied 1 year ago.

Randy,


 


I'm seeing .4/.5 ohms of resistance on the thermistor and I have continuity on the heating element. Thanks!

Expert:  Randy replied 1 year ago.
Okay, is this what you are calling the thermistor?

Thermistor(NNN) NNN-NNNN        Main Product View
Expert:  Randy replied 1 year ago.
If not I need you to look at the diagram I am sending you and test 2 parts. The first one is #41 (thermal fuse) and the second is #51 (thermistor). I need a resistance check on each and as you can see they are on the blower housing.

Customer: replied 1 year ago.

Okay, thermistor p/n(NNN) NNN-NNNNmeasures 12.6k ohms of resistance. The thermal fuse p/n(NNN) NNN-NNNNmeasures 0.4 ohms and it's also new.

Expert:  Randy replied 1 year ago.
Okay, do you have your diagnostics/tech sheet? If so look on it and see if it tells you what the thermistor reading should be depending on the surrounding temperature. I am gonna look for my diagnostic sheet also.
Customer: replied 1 year ago.

Assuming p/n(NNN) NNN-NNNNis the exhaust thermistor, and given it's placement it must be, the spec'd resistance is 10k ohms. There's no temperature spec for this component that I can see.


 

Expert:  Randy replied 1 year ago.
Okay, do you happen to have a hair dryer? If so you need to blow it on the thermistor for 2 minutes and see if the reading goes up. Right now it looks like it is bad as the reading is to low. At room temperature it should be reading about 20Kohms.
Customer: replied 1 year ago.

Better yet, I have a heat gun. I'll keep it low and check frequently so I don't melt anything.

Expert:  Randy replied 1 year ago.
Okay, the resistance should go down and at 80 degrees room temperature it need to be about 10K. Let me know what you find.
Customer: replied 1 year ago.

Randy,


 


Okay, I found a couple of things, resistance dropped way down if I overheated it but comes back to ~20k if I set it where it can cool down. The ambient temperature in the laundry room is on the warm side so that's why I think the initial reading of 12.6k was accurate. FWIW, I also tested the old one, which was also sitting in the laundry room, and it reads between 11 and 12k.

Customer: replied 1 year ago.

Randy,


 


I need to drop off for the night. If there's anything else I should do I can have a go at it tomorrow evening. Thanks much.

Expert:  Michelle-Mod replied 1 year ago.

Hello,

It seems the professional has left this conversation. This happens occasionally, and it's usually because the professional thinks that someone else might be a better match for your question. I've been working hard to find a new professional to assist you with your question, but sometimes finding the right professional can take a little longer than expected.

I wonder whether you're OK with continuing to wait for an answer. If you are, please let me know and I will continue my search. If not, feel free to let me know and I will cancel this question for you.

Thank you!

Michelle

Customer: replied 1 year ago.

Michelle,


 


It looks like I'm 0 for 2 so I should probably take that as a sign and bail out. Thanks for trying.


 


Best Regards,


 


John

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