Appliance Repair Questions? Ask a Technician for Answers ASAP
Outside to outside toggles between 246 & 247. Both the left and the right outside to middle toggle between 122 and 123.
I get zero on the red. I also tested the black to middle and am getting 120.
I've inspected the heating element and it looks fine. The thermostat was the one part I was having trouble finding in stock so that's no doubt the bad part (Murphy's law). Thanks much for your help.
Just realized I'm not sure how to check the thermostat. It has 3 connectors, 2 large gauge (red and black) connectors and a small harness connector. I get continuity between the large connector prongs but I'm not sure how to test for open. Can you walk me through what I should be checking? Thanks!
There's a small collar around the thermostat with a connector for a small harness and what looks like a probe. This link will take you to some photos...
Yes it does. I get continuity between the large connectors but what other tests should I run?
I replaced the part on the right but although I have a new one, I don't see the part on the left anywhere in the dryer. Any idea where it's located?
Thanks, XXXXX XXXXX see if I can locate it.
I've examined the unit from top to bottom and this part (#3391914) is nowhere to be found nor is in the parts list for the unit. Could that collar on part #8557403 serve the same function?
Okay thanks. I've only found one in town so I'd better run to get it. Can I contact you again if I'm still having problem after I install the part?
Replaced the thermostat but there's no improvement.
Since I'm sure that's not an inexpensive part, though none of them have been so far, is there any way to positively determine that the motor is the source of the fault? And can that be done while it's all disassembled so I have access to it?
What state does the dryer need to in while I'm doing this? If it need to be running I won't have access to very much of the wiring. Can I do this with the drum removed?
With the front off and the drum out I can verify the motor is receiving 125 but I can't verify it's outputting 125 because I can't start it. Any suggestions?
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Thanks Michelle. I'm okay waiting for now. I'd sure prefer to fix the 2.5 year old dryer instead of buying a new one.
Please tell me which read points you're interested in and I'll get the measurements to best of my ability. Thanks!
I'm at work at the moment but the last readings I took were 122/123 from each side to center and 244/245 from side to side.
Everything seems to work EXCEPT the heat.
This is where I get stuck, to gain access to any of the heating system I have to remove the drum. Once I've removed the drum there seems to be switches that prevent the motor from running, the heat coming on, etc. I'm guessing there's a test fixture of some sort that inserts between the main harness and the motor that allows for testing the rest of the system. I don't have one of those so I don't seem able to rout power throughout the system.
Yes, we tried it in several modes; all without any sign of heat.
Have fun and thanks for your help!
I'm seeing .4/.5 ohms of resistance on the thermistor and I have continuity on the heating element. Thanks!
Okay, thermistor p/n(NNN) NNN-NNNNmeasures 12.6k ohms of resistance. The thermal fuse p/n(NNN) NNN-NNNNmeasures 0.4 ohms and it's also new.
Assuming p/n(NNN) NNN-NNNNis the exhaust thermistor, and given it's placement it must be, the spec'd resistance is 10k ohms. There's no temperature spec for this component that I can see.
Better yet, I have a heat gun. I'll keep it low and check frequently so I don't melt anything.
Okay, I found a couple of things, resistance dropped way down if I overheated it but comes back to ~20k if I set it where it can cool down. The ambient temperature in the laundry room is on the warm side so that's why I think the initial reading of 12.6k was accurate. FWIW, I also tested the old one, which was also sitting in the laundry room, and it reads between 11 and 12k.
I need to drop off for the night. If there's anything else I should do I can have a go at it tomorrow evening. Thanks much.
It looks like I'm 0 for 2 so I should probably take that as a sign and bail out. Thanks for trying.