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Have you measured the temp sensor WHEN IT'S HOT?
Usually when I see this and it's not the board (I would have done exactly as you if the sensor was around 1500 ohms at room temp) Then the sensor or wire between is all it can be
You have a board that sends power and a sensor that turns temp into resistance for the board to interpret .... only 2 things that regulate temp
Sensors can be off with temp not just at room temp ... and wires can be broken when heated but touch when cool (metal expands and contracts) I have even seen wires melted to the cabinet before cause this
hello, just got back from church. i did not check the impendance at temperature, only at room temp. when i removed the sensor, i pulled the wire about 12 inches to make sure it was intact. what do you suggest?
The only issue is being a double wall oven it's pretty hard to pull .... since you have checked the sensor at room temp and without pulling it you can't check it heated up. So I might would recommend just swapping the sensor (it's the most likely culprit) and then if that doesn't work. Change the board
I know it's a bit of a costly route ... but unless you can pull the oven to test it's the best way. If this were a slide in range I would have you pull it and check the sensor.
Look at it this way ... if it's the board your only wasting a sensor .... if it's the sensor .... it's still a cheap repair ...... If this were my oven and I didn't have an oven dolly to allow me to pull it by myself it's how I would proceed.
Thanks. Is there a possibility that it is a problem in the relay board?
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Hello and thank you. Still waiting on an answer and I travel frequently without access to this email account.
The specific repairs that i have performed are to replace the heat sensor and the oven control board (part #316576302). The oven still has the exact issue as described above - it can reach the desired temperature without a problem, but when the oven door opens or as the oven naturally cools, something is preventing the oven from calling for heat and restoring the desired temperature. This can be over-ridden by re-engaging the heat cycle - depressing the "bake" button followed by depressing the "start" button.
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Hi Im Steve,Thank you for choosing JA.this unit was made for sears by electrolux it has an element that assists the heat where the convection fan motor is and i have seen these symptoms caused by a bad element or connection on the element, as the other tech said it could be the probe also and because its the same part in the lower unit you can swap them and see if that works but if the symptoms are, when it is in preheat mode it seems to work properly but when it shifts to cycling it fails. try ohming out all the elements,bake broil and convection. on the one i had do this it was the convection element. if your not sure how to get to it you can view a breakdown @ partsdirect dot com by the way that model # XXXXX XXXXX it must have come from the booklet. you need the full # XXXXX get the correct parts usually you can wiggle the element forward after removing the screws being gentle not to disconnect the wires as you pull it forward. disconnect the power first via the double breaker and you probably will only be able to do this with the bake and broil elements the convection element will probably only be accessed from the back. let me know if you need more info. thank you and good luck! btw when an element goes it usually gets a hole or blister that is visible
Thanks stephenmichaelz. You are 100% in that the oven is fine in preheat mode but fails during cycling. I think what you are suggesting is to check the impedance on the heating elements: bake, broil, and convection. You provided an example where you encountered an oven that had the same symptoms. In that instance, it was the convection element that was the culprit. It sounds like you think this could be either the convection element, the bake element, or the broil element.
Here is what I found for part numbers on the convection element: convection element (316415800), kit (316415800)
Thanks. I will check it out. As I noted, I already replaced the heat sensor and the circuit board. The convection element is circular (i have attached an image to confirm that this is the part to which you are referring). part number 121 is listed as the "convection element".
Based upon your message, the impedance should read "zero" having no resistance?
Thank you for your help and patience thus far.
I cannot physically look at it until Friday, as I am out of town. It is a covered bake element. Once I expose the element, will the hole or a blister be near one of the contact points on the element?